Thermostat Housing?
#1
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Fyffe/Rainsville, Alabama
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1990 RS
Engine: 383 Stroker TPI, 350 About To Go In
Transmission: 700R4 W/ Shift Kit And Stall, 700R4 W/ Shift Kit
Thermostat Housing?
What is the housing made out of?
#4
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
most of the stock ones on thirdgens are cast alum.
they warp over time though....
the better replacements are the cast iron ones.. they almost never warp... if you have enough heat to warp em, you have alot of other engine troubles to take care of first, lol
they warp over time though....
the better replacements are the cast iron ones.. they almost never warp... if you have enough heat to warp em, you have alot of other engine troubles to take care of first, lol
#5
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Actually, they warp very easily, from overtightening the bolts.
I always throw them away at the first hint of a leak, and get a real one (cast iron). I don't care too much for the chrome ones, because even though they are zinc and therefore make an excellent protective sacrificial anode (a good thing to have if you have both aluminum and stainlees-steel things on your motor), they always develop leaks fairly quickly and require frequent replacement.
I always throw them away at the first hint of a leak, and get a real one (cast iron). I don't care too much for the chrome ones, because even though they are zinc and therefore make an excellent protective sacrificial anode (a good thing to have if you have both aluminum and stainlees-steel things on your motor), they always develop leaks fairly quickly and require frequent replacement.
#6
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by RB83L69
Actually, they warp very easily, from overtightening the bolts.
I always throw them away at the first hint of a leak, and get a real one (cast iron). I don't care too much for the chrome ones, because even though they are zinc and therefore make an excellent protective sacrificial anode (a good thing to have if you have both aluminum and stainlees-steel things on your motor), they always develop leaks fairly quickly and require frequent replacement.
Actually, they warp very easily, from overtightening the bolts.
I always throw them away at the first hint of a leak, and get a real one (cast iron). I don't care too much for the chrome ones, because even though they are zinc and therefore make an excellent protective sacrificial anode (a good thing to have if you have both aluminum and stainlees-steel things on your motor), they always develop leaks fairly quickly and require frequent replacement.
#7
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,552
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
Originally posted by MrDude_1
i have this neat lil zinc weight thingy hooked under the radaitor cap of my car..... its actually ment for marine use, but idea is the same.... works great..
i have this neat lil zinc weight thingy hooked under the radaitor cap of my car..... its actually ment for marine use, but idea is the same.... works great..
y?
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#8
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
protective sacrificial anode (a good thing to have if you have both aluminum and stainlees-steel things on your motor)
Basically 2 dissimilar metals immersed in a conductive solution with a conductive path between them will create a battery. One of the metals will act as the cathode and will accumulate metallic ions out of the solution; the other will act as an anode and will have its metal atoms stripped of electrons, turned into ions, and dissolved, thereby eroding the metal. In the case of the stainless/aluminum reaction, the aluminum acts as the anode, and ends up getting eaten up and pitted and ruined. The process is continuous and inevitable.
In the case of a car motor, the antifreeze is the solution; and the other parts are the aluminum castings and radiator, and stainless fasteners.
Putting a large enough zinc object nearby, immersed in the solution and electrically connected to the stainless and aluminum parts, will cause the zinc to act as the anode (and erode), and allow the aluminum and stainless to both acts as cathodes, thereby preventing them from eroding. That's why various parts of a boat outboard motor or outdrive are made of zinc, and why there's zinc lump things you put on stainless propeller shafts of inboard systems.
Last edited by RB83L69; 01-16-2004 at 08:56 AM.
#9
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by 89RsPower!
y?
y?
RB83L69 gave the full complete explanation, but in laymans terms
it keeps the alum radiator and heads from corroding away. the zinc goes instead....
my lil zinc weight thingy is lil bigger then 2/3s the size it was when i put it new... $2 on a piece of zinc is nothign compared to new manifold or radiator... that and i got it for free when my dad had one from a boat he sold..
#10
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
quote:
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protective sacrificial anode (a good thing to have if you have both aluminum and stainlees-steel things on your motor)
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ah ha totally missed that part in ur first post good explination.. and intrestin idea MrDude never heard of ne one doing that before
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protective sacrificial anode (a good thing to have if you have both aluminum and stainlees-steel things on your motor)
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ah ha totally missed that part in ur first post good explination.. and intrestin idea MrDude never heard of ne one doing that before
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