KYL98

Im having problems with my EGR on my Z....just wondering if I could cap it off somehow to make it non functional until weather permits me to change it???? Can I cap off the solenoid or do I do it and the valve?? If anybody else has tried this please let me know if it will work....or make things WORSE.....thanks in advance...

Vader

If the problem is with the EGR valve sticking or not sealing closed, capping/plugging the vacuum line will not solve it. If the problem is with the EGR solenoid, capping the lines can resolve the symptoms, but will not prevent the warning lamp on the dash from turning on.

What exactly is wrong with your EGR system?

KYL98

Well....here's the deal. Here is a list of everything that has been replaced/checked on the car....yet the problem remains. Keep in mind the car sat for about 6-7mths before being driven regularly.
SORRY this is going to be long.........

Replaced:

Fuel filter
ALL engine/drivetrain fluids
02 sensor
New 3in Catco cats
Coolant temp sensor
replaced Accel ignition with Delco components

Checked:

Timing(set at 8* BTDC) was previously 2* ATDC
MAP sensor(OK)
Cleaned IAC and TB passages
Checked ALL reference voltage to all sensors(OK)
Set minimum air
Cleaned EGR passages and wiped sludge off EGR pintle
Checked injector resistance(only 2 of 8 within spec)


Thats all I can think of off the top of my head. Here's what the car is doing exactly. When you first start the car after it sitting for a long time(overnite) it runs fine, drives fine etc. After it warms up.....even before going into closed loop, it starts idling rough. The tach doesnt bounce around while idling, it just runs really bad at idle...and sometimes stumbles from a stop. I have run some strong injector cleaner through and the resistance of the injectors did change some, but not that much. I know the injectors are bad....but I just feel like there is something else causing this besides that. Im doing a compression check this weekend as well as seeing what kind of engine vacuum Im getting. I wasnt too much worried about the vacuum with the MAP sensor being in perfect spec.....is that a bad assumption???? Other than a horrible idle, the car drives fine on the I-state etc....and gas mileage seems ok(about 20mpg on the highway) The engine itself is a stock 350TPI SD setup with 90K miles on it. Would just bad injectors be enough to make my car idle horribly...but not affect it anywhere else???? Im also going to check air/fuel to see where its at.....cant think of anything else. I did do something bad back in the summer when I started driving the car. After I put the complete exhaust on, I drove it and broke it in some. When I got back I decided to adjust the TPS and IAC for minimum air. I put the jumper in and waited about 35sec and disconnected the IAC and EST bypass....but then started the car with the jumper still in the ALDL Ever since then....the car has seemed to be funny after warming up. My dad has recommended the car being hooked to a scope to see whats going on....since its been hooked up to a diagnostic computer with no results....everything "appeared" to be working ok. Any ideas??????

TheMysticWizard

iTrader: (1)

Jumper in the ALDL when starting up could be a bad thing. I've heard of people frying their computers after doing that, and I've also heard of people having little minor problems. It seems that it depends on the computer for what happens, but I don't think they are ever the same afterwards.

KYL98

Ive actually heard that too.....I heard in my 730 ECM it can fry the EST circuit or something like that??? It kinda seems like the timing could be off.....but its been checked and double checked....even made sure the balancer didnt rotate or anything. My dad's friend checked the entire ECM and sensors with a diagnostic computer....and said everything was working "properly" according to the computer anyway. I guess Im just gonna replace the injectors and EGR(hey its 14 years old..)and see what happens. If its the ECM...can I just replace it and use my old PROM?? Or would I have to burn a new one??