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Edelbrock Performer RPM or Performer Package?

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Old 12-30-2000, 07:20 PM
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
Edelbrock Performer RPM or Performer Package?

They have a pretty good deal in Jegs for a manifold, carb, and cam all designed to work pretty well together. I really don't know which manifold i should go with, the performer RPM or the performer? And also, will i be able to swap this manifold, carb, and cam on a 350 which i'm planning to get later down the road?

------------------

Mods:Hooker Aerochamber 3" exhaust, gutted kitty,
March 2 piece underdrive pullies, smog pump gone,
14x4 K&N, 3.42 gears,
Eibach springs with KYB's all around.
Appearance: Harwood cowl hood, Z-28 wing, painted black(7/20/00)-original color was light blue
*All these mods were made this year
Stock Options:120,000 miles on motor, 5spd, TBI, 305, T-tops
Run a best of 16.7 @85mph before gears
Old 12-30-2000, 08:04 PM
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Well I'd go with the performer RPM unless you are not gonna do too many mods. The RPM is better especally when your gonna put in a bigger cam and Carb and anything performance wise. The RPM is square bore carb while the performer is spread bore which is for stock carbs. If you got the money go with the rpm air gap, it has a small gap cut into the flange dividing the 2 sides which equalizes pressure. Or if you have the equipment do it yourself to the RPM. The package deal is pretty good and saves money. Also it will interchange with a 350 and any small block chevy too!
Old 12-30-2000, 08:14 PM
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cool, i'm definitely going with the RPM package since i'll be putting on slp headers right before that. And the price difference is very slight between the rpm and the regular performer. thanks
Old 12-30-2000, 08:46 PM
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Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
I would suggest finding a better cam than the performer rpm. It is a very old design.
234/244 at 050
488/510 lift

The comp extreme series will provide more lift at less duration and will improve midrange torque/hp.
XE262 218/224 .462/.469
XE268 224/230 .477/.480
XE274 230/236 .487/.490

These combinations are really designed for a 350. If you try to use it on a 305 you will find low end just about non existant. Especially the performer rpm cam. You can go with the performer intake and heads but just use the 262 cam on the 305 and when go through the 350 get someting like the 274 or hydroller.

Actually, now that I think about it, I don't know if you can use the performer/rpm or base heads (if your considering the heads) on the 305. The intake valves are 202 inch on both heads and this will probably hit the block at the edge of the cylinder bore on the 305. Most 305 heads are limited to about 194 valve.

[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited December 30, 2000).]
Old 12-31-2000, 11:28 AM
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You may want to watch out buying the RPM intake depending on the application. You will not have a whole lot of low end power with the RPM and a set of headers. If you want to have high end HP and go real fast, go with the RPM. If you want low end tourque and you just want to get up to sp[eed fast, get the performer.

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'86 IROC-Z
305 LG-4, T-5
T-Tops
50k Original Miles
K&N Air Filter
Stage I Chip
KYB Shocks/Struts
Centerforce Dual Friction
Old 12-31-2000, 03:56 PM
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Go with the RPM for the intake but choose another cam as suggested by "JCB999", I have the RPM cam and it's not that street friendly. It is a good cam but it'll make power from 3500-3800 to about 6600-6800 so it won't make for a nice street cam...
Old 01-01-2001, 01:30 AM
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Just a thought, if you are considering a 350 in the future, building a 383 is NOT much more. Rotating assemblies, blanced, can be had for under $900. Combine that with the Performer RPM package...and well...you have the Chuck Everly edition of an RS. (Something huge like 425HP and 438ft/lbs. of torque.) The 383 should make the streetablity of the RPM cam better. However I would stay well away from that combination if you are even considering running the stock gears or convertor. It will run horribly unless you match everything up. With that powerband, I think 3.73's are bare essential, and 2600 RPM or higher stall is as low as you could go, and be fast/reliable/reasonable. So you know, I'm not just blowing BS at you, I'm getting the machine work done on my 350 block now, for a 383 with the RPM intake/cam, a holley D.P.'er, cost effective cylander heads (sportsman II's?), and I expect it to be able to get me into the mid/high 12's in a 3600lb monte carlo on the motor, and mid 11's on the bottle.

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86 IROC-Z, Retired for winter, weird oil leak (drains out in about 3 minutes), new 355 other than that, TPI, 700R4, edelbrock headers, removed AC/Air pump, heater plate conversion - no heater (loL). 14.8@90MPH
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