Electric water pumps on the street
#1
Electric water pumps on the street
First off my Z is not a daily driver , but it is driven bout 75-100 miles a week . Can I run a CSI or Meziere pump on a car that see's limited street time . My other option was the Evans NPG cooling system using propylene glycol . What are your thoughts on this .
Thanx
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Derek 90 IROC-Z
13.16@101
***Under Construction***
[This message has been edited by 90 Z28SS (edited December 27, 2000).]
Thanx
-------------------------------------------
Derek 90 IROC-Z
13.16@101
***Under Construction***
[This message has been edited by 90 Z28SS (edited December 27, 2000).]
#2
they flow 30 GPM so it should work in that respect. i wonder about what they would draw in way of current? i have a moroso race eletric water pump and was thinking it said not for street use, but i can't find the paper now and don't remember why it's not for the street.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
#3
I've done plenty of research on this and let me tell you what I know...
1) I have a Mr. Gasket electric drive water pump and I think it's fine for street driving as long as you're not lead-footed. The thing spins at 1500rpm constantly so it's really more practical than some think. (I think this only works out to 15gpm) When I used to drive my car more than once a week, I saw the temp rise above 200* once (this was in 90* heat remember) and I just flipped on my fan and back down it went to 160*. But for people that like a little bit more speed, more often (like myself) I would suggest a full fledged electric pump.
2) The best (Edit: belt-driven) water pump flows at the most 28gpm the last time I checked, but I could be wrong, so don't jump all over my case about it.
3) The CSI electric pump you mentioned is a nice unit and a lot of 4th gen owners use one and they get a decent gain in power, but don't expect a whole lot. There was a website with actual numbers, but I've lost it. But in my quest for total cooling I've come across a pump that in much better in 2 respects.
4) Aerospace Components makes a billet water pump that flows 37 gpm and only draws 4amps! I haven't read about a better pump anywhere and here's the greatest part...the CSI pump only flows 30gpm, like Ede said, and it draws 5.8amps, but it costs $10 more than the Aerospace pump. The Aerospace pump costs $250, which is a lot compared to a normal belt driven pump, but the advantages for me seem well worth the extra $100.
Aerospace Components also offers a pump that is remote mounted which is perfect because then I won't have to make custom brackets for my v-belt since the pump won't get in the way. Whenever I get my new motor built, this will be the way I cool it.
That's my $1.02 anyways
oh yea, jeg's sells the pump.
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1982 Camaro Z28
trying to make it worthwhile for the spring....
Check the website for progress http://members.fbody.com/Pro82Z/
[This message has been edited by crazeinc (edited December 27, 2000).]
1) I have a Mr. Gasket electric drive water pump and I think it's fine for street driving as long as you're not lead-footed. The thing spins at 1500rpm constantly so it's really more practical than some think. (I think this only works out to 15gpm) When I used to drive my car more than once a week, I saw the temp rise above 200* once (this was in 90* heat remember) and I just flipped on my fan and back down it went to 160*. But for people that like a little bit more speed, more often (like myself) I would suggest a full fledged electric pump.
2) The best (Edit: belt-driven) water pump flows at the most 28gpm the last time I checked, but I could be wrong, so don't jump all over my case about it.
3) The CSI electric pump you mentioned is a nice unit and a lot of 4th gen owners use one and they get a decent gain in power, but don't expect a whole lot. There was a website with actual numbers, but I've lost it. But in my quest for total cooling I've come across a pump that in much better in 2 respects.
4) Aerospace Components makes a billet water pump that flows 37 gpm and only draws 4amps! I haven't read about a better pump anywhere and here's the greatest part...the CSI pump only flows 30gpm, like Ede said, and it draws 5.8amps, but it costs $10 more than the Aerospace pump. The Aerospace pump costs $250, which is a lot compared to a normal belt driven pump, but the advantages for me seem well worth the extra $100.
Aerospace Components also offers a pump that is remote mounted which is perfect because then I won't have to make custom brackets for my v-belt since the pump won't get in the way. Whenever I get my new motor built, this will be the way I cool it.
That's my $1.02 anyways
oh yea, jeg's sells the pump.
------------------
1982 Camaro Z28
trying to make it worthwhile for the spring....
Check the website for progress http://members.fbody.com/Pro82Z/
[This message has been edited by crazeinc (edited December 27, 2000).]
#4
Thanx alot guys . I'll definately look into the Aerospace unit
Then I'll have see if I can still use my serpentine . I already have the smog pump gone and bypass the power steering at the track . Hmmm...it might work.
Then I'll have see if I can still use my serpentine . I already have the smog pump gone and bypass the power steering at the track . Hmmm...it might work.
#5
Moderator
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,174
Likes: 140
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
One more thing to consider about electric pumps. Electric motors do wear out reguardless of what kind they are. As a daily driver, a high end pump would be the most desirable since it would be designed to last for a long time.
Water pump drives such as Moroso's is just a 12v furnace motor driving the water pump. This motor is no different than electric fans or heater fans. They do wear out and if it does on a street vehicle, the engine will definetly overheat.
The high end pumps should have a sealed motor incorporated into the pump. It also will wear out eventually but it'll take a lot longer.
You need to get one that will handle long periods of street driving at variable speeds. The Moroso pump drive isn't designed for this. It will work but not as efficiently as better pumps.
The main reason I use a water pump drive in drag racing is to help cool down the engine between rounds. Electric fans just cool the coolent in the rad when the car is turned off in the pits. By removing the thermostat and turning on the water pump, you cool down all the coolent in the system.
I was just flipping through a Summit catalog. CSI just mentions a 1 year warrenty. Meziere gives a 2000 hour seal life expectancy. Weiand states "for drag use only"
Unless you need some reason to run the pump when the engine is off, it would be better to buy an aluminum water pump. Electric pumps only pump at a constant speed. At least an engine driven pump will pump faster as engine speed increases. I think that's why the Moroso pump isn't rated for street use. Sustained high engine rpms will produce more heat than the pump can push through the cooling system.
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Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Water pump drives such as Moroso's is just a 12v furnace motor driving the water pump. This motor is no different than electric fans or heater fans. They do wear out and if it does on a street vehicle, the engine will definetly overheat.
The high end pumps should have a sealed motor incorporated into the pump. It also will wear out eventually but it'll take a lot longer.
You need to get one that will handle long periods of street driving at variable speeds. The Moroso pump drive isn't designed for this. It will work but not as efficiently as better pumps.
The main reason I use a water pump drive in drag racing is to help cool down the engine between rounds. Electric fans just cool the coolent in the rad when the car is turned off in the pits. By removing the thermostat and turning on the water pump, you cool down all the coolent in the system.
I was just flipping through a Summit catalog. CSI just mentions a 1 year warrenty. Meziere gives a 2000 hour seal life expectancy. Weiand states "for drag use only"
Unless you need some reason to run the pump when the engine is off, it would be better to buy an aluminum water pump. Electric pumps only pump at a constant speed. At least an engine driven pump will pump faster as engine speed increases. I think that's why the Moroso pump isn't rated for street use. Sustained high engine rpms will produce more heat than the pump can push through the cooling system.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
When you guys say high speed what are you talking about? what RPM range? I'm concidering getting an elec pump for my 305, which durung the summer is a daily driver. about 1,400 miles a month. I'm looking to it for power advantages. Right now is basically a stock 305, but soon i'll be replacing the heads, cam, headers, just thought the elec H2O pump would help in keeping the power i want to create, question: is is feasable? worth it?
by the sounds of it these things can't take much.
btw: i do like to push it some, but it generally stays in the 2-3,000 RMP range
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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat,
by the sounds of it these things can't take much.
btw: i do like to push it some, but it generally stays in the 2-3,000 RMP range
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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat,
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
From: Mpls, MN USA
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 427 BBC
Transmission: T400
Meziere has electric pumps for street use. They are the best out there. Rated at ~2500 hrs.
Miles
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88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
www.koolmeister.com
Miles
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88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
www.koolmeister.com
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#8
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 1
From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by crazeinc:
I've done plenty of research on this and let me tell you what I know...
2) The best (Edit: belt-driven) water pump flows at the most 28gpm the last time I checked, but I could be wrong, so don't jump all over my case about it.
I've done plenty of research on this and let me tell you what I know...
2) The best (Edit: belt-driven) water pump flows at the most 28gpm the last time I checked, but I could be wrong, so don't jump all over my case about it.
The best belt driven pump in my opinion is made by Stewart. Their lowest priced stage 1 pump flows 100 gpm at 4500rpm and is only around $60. Check out this comparision to the Edlebrock pumps.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/ede...comparison.htm
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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Heads, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine belt setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex Springs.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/octride.htm
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