Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

What do you think??

-Must be streetable, pass emissions (no visual), work with CCC system, at least 400 HP at the flywheel. Not to exceed 5500 RPM's. Will use Weiand Plus intake, TES Headers and Hooker Catback with high flow CAT convertor. 3.73:1 gears, upgraded T-5.

Thanks to RB83L69 for his help!!

406 (.030 over)

Scat 4130 steel crank- (for internal balance)

5.7" scat 4340 floated rods

Forged JE pistons -(200 grams lighter, 9:1 compression w/72cc heads)

Dart Iron Eagle heads- (ported, Manley valves, 72cc chambers, 200cc runners, 110lbs springs for hyd cam, w 3/8 guide plates,screw in studs)

ARP studs @ bolts

Comp Cams XE268 Hyd Tappet Cam w/1.6 ratio rockers.

You think this is a sound combo??

zippy

i'd say it's a pretty decent start.

Damon

You won't need gears that steep unless you plan on some serious traction upgrades. 400s make ***'s own torque. On street tires it'll be absolutely stupid trying to get it off the line. You really don't need anything steeper thn about 3.23 if your only traction upgrade is going to be maybe a set of DRs.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, posi rear will be the next upgrade...it's really my last "weak link". Maybe a aftermarket torque arm will be needed also. I agree, traction may be an issue. I'll find out soon enough.

Can't wait to see how it'll run! Plan to order it tomorrow.

Not quite sure of what "It's a pretty decent start" means though....

I'm just trying to get opinions on the combo, not trying to build the best engine money can buy. How much power do you think it'll make??

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

BTT...

SSC

Well, change the cam and you might pass emmisions. I just used a XE268 in a 350, granted you have a larger displacment engine but it's not sniffer friendly and probably wont work well with the CCS anyway.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I thought it would work....any cam recommendations then?? Would something like I'm running on my 305 now work well on a 400??

Thanks for the info!

94-6spd

I had the xe268 in my 350 and loved it but definitely not sniffer friendly. I highly recommend you call TPI specialties. They really went out of there way to help me get the cam I needed for my 406 It had to be ground on a small base circle for the 6 inch rods that I chose to use. (clearance issues) They have plenty of emissions legal cams to chose from. They will also custom grind a cam for you.

tpis.com

Mailing Address: TPI Specialties, Inc.
4255 Creek Road (Cty.Rd 110)
Chaska, MN 55318

Telephone: 952-448-6021
Fax: 952-448-7230

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

But I don't have a TPI car, and I'm using 5.7 rods.

In 83, the closest thing to TPI was CFI.... I have a CCC Q-Jet.

I'd rather not go through the custom cam grind. I'm just looking for the best performance cam I can get using CCC, passing emissions, and having a decent idle.

A car that will haul both on the street, and be respectable on the track. I'll have to change the rear...the car came with open 3.73's to begin with, and I need to change it. Well, you get the idea...

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

And let me add... I'm not trying to "flaunt" anything....I've saved up for quite a while. The setup I mentioned is running me around 3g's for a shop to build. I've built my own before, but at his prices and for what I'm getting...I couldn't pass it up!!

Been wanting to have an engine that can perform and be "streetable" since I was much younger (mid-life crisis). Now I have an opportunity...

What's the best cam I can use with this combo!!!!

Thanks in advance! :hail:

Someone on here must have real life experience with this..I plan to call the cam companies also...

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

I have done a lot of reading and found out that its best to call about 6 different cam manfactures and get their recommendation. Write all specification the down then do an average and select that cam. Personally im going with a Solid Cam in my 400 from Lunati, that is street friendly and tons of power. Take a look at my build sheet:


Engine: 400 SBC ID# 330817/14y139664/ T0508CSU
(4.125 bore X 3.750 stroke) after .040 bore (4.165 bore x 3.75 stroke =408)

Crank: Scat 9000 Crank 3.750 6.00, Internally Balance, Part# 400-3750-6000

Bearing: Clevite– MS1038P Mains and CB663P Rods

Piston: Wiseco Pistons, .040 over, 5.4cc; 430 grams, Part# PT020H4

Rods: Eagle ESP 4340 H-Rods 6.0, Part# CRS6000B3D

Block: Zero Deck: 0.000

Compression Ratio: Static-10:48 Dynamic-8:30

Cam: Grind: Solid Lunati/Ultradyne (Recommended by Harold former owner of Ultradyne Cams)
280/284 110LSA .525/.530 Lift 247/251@.050 Beats the Comp Cam 294S hands down. Pro-Street power with an extra 5 degrees at .200"! 2500-7000

Heads: AFR 210 Part# 1052 w/23º valve angle, 74cc, drilled steam holes

Head Gasket: Fel-Pro-1014 / 0.039

Intake: Edelbrock RPM #7101

Carb: Holley 750 (3310)

Rear End Gear: 3:73

Transmission: Pro-Built Street/Strip 700R4

Stall Converter: A.C.T. 3000 Stall

Exhaust: Hooker Super Comp headers 1 5/8 Headers part # 2460-1 ceramic coated; (Need 1 3/4 Headers in the future)
Hooker Super Competition high flow cat-back exhaust system, Intermediate pipe: 3 in.
* Tail pipe diameter: 2 1/2 in.
* Dual tail pipes out the rear under the bumper

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like a strong combo DTL504! I guess mines simular except I'm using forged pistons with 5.7 rods.

I'd like to continue to run hyd tappet if possible though. What's the diff between static and dynamic compression?? I assume the dynamic one is the one that counts so far as detonation issues are concerned etc...???

The builder is warning me not to go crazy on compression on a 400 because he says the 400's tend to detonate easier than say a 350 or 383. That's the only reason he's figured 9:1 for the street would be about right. Plus I'm not using aluminum heads either.

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

With aluminum heads you can go 1 point higher on the compression, so thats where I stand. as for detonation, the key is to get a good Quench area (.035-.045).
Here is some good reading about Detonation, Static Compression, and Dynamic Compression.

http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

Also download the DCR calculator located at the bottom of the page and input all you info into it to see exactly where you are as far as DCR/SCR.

It Looks like this:
DCR Calculator with VB6 Runtime files 1.55 MB

94-6spd

I don't have a TPI car either. I'm using a Victor Jr. and a Demon 750. Mine also is an 83 but I still had TPIS grind a cam for me. They are very helpful. I don't even have to worry about emissions where I live.

Someone mentioned above about calling several cam companies. That would be a wise move. I called Isky, Comp, Crane, Lunati, and TPIS.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, that was me...I quoted myself!

I'm taking a step back for a couple of days in deciding on this engine. What started out as a 1300 dollar shortblock, has grown to a 3900 dollar engine...and that doesn't include the intake and carb! - But it does include most everything else including a break-in and dyno w/screens. I guess laying down that type of money to a shop and person I've never met in real life makes me a bit apprehensive, even though the owner seems to be nice and knows his stuff on the phone.

I've written back to the machine shop to see if I can get a better deal on an internally balanced 406 that won't break the bank. Geez - they sell other complete engines for cheaper.... so I'll see what he can do, although I'm not getting my hopes up...

I found out that bolting a 400 up to a T-5 makes the internal balancing necessary, and added alot to the cost of the engine because the externally balanced flywheels required for a stick are either rare, or expensive...

I'm beginning to see why 383's are all the rave...

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

I would not buy a rotating assembly from a machine shop. The BEST way to buy parts from my experience is the internet or Ebay. I believe you will get a better deal without using a third party. Remember in this society every person that touch the product has to add a percentage to increase the value of the product. You can do better by eliminating the middle man. I would seach www.Ebay.com (SBC 400) or www.dirttrackthunder.com, you can get a rotating assembly cheaper and have the same quality of parts that you would get from the machine shop. I wanted to spend $1000.00 on a good bottom end and this is what I got.

EAGLE H-Beam Rods CRS6000B3D $335.09

CLEVITE Main Bearing MS1038P $27.00
Rod Bearing 8-CB663P $27.00

SCAT 9000 Int Ball Crank 400-3750-6000 $222.50

WISECO Pro Tru Forged Pistons PT020H4 (0.040) $419.00

TOTAL Price Including Shipping = 1030.59

Ok I did go over the budget by $30.59, but I have forge pistons, forge rods and a int bal crank.
Not Bad try to buy these parts from your local machine shop and they will have your wallet with plenty of room for reciepts and no cash....
Thats just my .02 cents
Now some machine shops can match these prices but I doubt many will.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Hey DTL....

I know what you mean about cutting out the middle man. I have a slightly diff. situation since I don't have a block either.

Are the .040 pistons you mention dished?? What the final compression and what cc are your heads?? What heads are you using?

I would basically be buying a short block and upgrading to a complete assy. Would include Breakin/Dyno time also...

As I look at the Northern Auto catalog I have, I am starting to realize I'm not getting such a bad deal. It seems on a few items, I'm paying less for the parts themselves...and he's installing them.

If I had a machined 400 block lying around, it'd be cheaper.

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

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Are the .040 pistons you mention dished?? Wiseco Flattop 5.4cc
What the final compression? 10:48:1
What cc are your heads?? 74cc
What heads are you using? ARF-195

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

So I assume the ARF-195 heads are aluminum?? Since I'm running 72cc Dart Iron Eagles, I need to keep my compression around 9:1 to keep detonation down...I've heard it's a problem on the 400's....also that dished pistons help displace heat better.

I know that aluminum heads will allow at least a point more.