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Smaller connecting rods with chamfered bearings.

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Old 11-10-2000, 11:31 AM
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Smaller connecting rods with chamfered bearings.

I just found out this week that I need chamfered rod bearings for my new engine and now I was wondering if this means I need undersized rods also? I hope not!!!!
Old 11-10-2000, 11:45 AM
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It shouldn't. The reason you need chamfered main bearings is because of the radius on the crank journal, which has no bearing (excuse the pun) on the rod dimensions.

What kind of bearings did you have before? I'd be interested in avoiding them in the future. Were they supplied with the crank, or did someone else (machine shop for example) supply them, or were they just regular over-the-counter repair parts?

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Old 11-10-2000, 12:38 PM
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
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They were Clevite bearings, but there was nothing wrong with the bearings themselves. The SDPC crankshaft I have requires the use of chamfered bearings, but they conveniently forget to tell you this when you buy the crank. They didn't even put anything in the box to tell you....guess I'm supposed to be a mind reader huh? I just have to swap my standard size bearings for chamfered ones. No big deal I guess so long as the rods are the right size.
Old 11-10-2000, 02:30 PM
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as an employee at a parts store (you would probably know it if i said the name paul) i dont believe people "conveniently forget" to tell you things...it just happens. when we get a busy day at the store and there are 10 people in line at the counter (who just stare at you and make you feel like an idiot, aside from the fact that you're working as fast as you can) you tend to get people in and out as quick as you can and sometimes crap happens. in your case there should have been soemthing in the box...it's possible that there was a packing error and you didnt get the instructions. but i doubt anyone was out to get you, because in the end they would probably end up paying for the mistake. this is no attack on your part but when someone buys an alternator i dont remind them to disconnect the battery before they start working on it. we assume that the people who are buying/installing the parts know what they are doing or will take the time to investigate into the proper tools and equipment needed to do the job.

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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers

[This message has been edited by CamaroZ_85 (edited November 10, 2000).]
Old 11-10-2000, 03:10 PM
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I used to sell parts and work at a machine shop as well, and I have to disagree with your statement. The part he got was not a replacement part, and should have been sold as such. It is the person behind the counters job to inform the customer that the crank requires special bearings. There should also have been a slip of paper with the crank as well stating that. It may have been inadvertently left out of the box, but there is no excuse for selling a non-replacement part as a direct replacement part. Just for some clarification... Generally speed parts are not direct replacement. If you dont take the time to make sure it is, then chances are a situation like this comes up. Also, whenever we would do machine work and had altered or were forced to alter a spec from stock, it was basically necessary to tell the owner of the part it was no longer a stock part but special or modified or however you want to term it.

As for the rods, they will be fine. The Clevite bearings do stick past the chamfer on the rods, but not quite to the edge of the rod. I'd say it goes halfway without measuring it. They have a slight chamfer on the edge of the bearing, but its small and nowhere near enough to compensate for a crank with a large fillet.

[This message has been edited by madmax (edited November 10, 2000).]
Old 11-10-2000, 03:25 PM
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
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I used to work at a parts store myself when I was in high school a few years ago. I didn't mean that they intentionally tried to mess with me, I just think SDPC is very bad with their customer service. Everytime I call them I get put on hold for like 20 minutes and then I get the run around from the tech guy. Plus if you ever look at their message board here they take days to reply to our questions. I just would think that there would be some guidelines in the box with a 383 crank that deal with things like block clearance and bearing selection. Could just be me though. Thanks for the help fellas.

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--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
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