wa90formula350

I just installed Energy Suspension motor and tranny mounts, so I could get in my new SLP headers, well I could not figure out where to jack up the motor or how to lift it from the top, so knowing I should not I used a jack under the front of the oil pan, with a piece of wood to hopefully distribute the pressure of the jack. Well it dented it hitting the oil pump, I know this cause theres a loud rattle from the bottom and I can feel it hitting the oil pan. I dont mind pulling the pan and going to a high volume oil pump but dont know how to lift the engine to get the pan out. My other thought is using one of those welders for autobody work that zaps a nail onto it so you can use a puller to pull the pan down. I'm worried about a fire though, even with the oil drained out, any thoughts on this? This bird is drivin me crazy.
Rob
1990 Formula 350

Engineboy

As far as using a puller to "un-dent" the pan, that will only remove the pan from being crushed, the noise you probably hear/feel is the oil pump pickup getting whacked by the crankshaft (assuming its crushed where the oil pump is)

That noise will still be there after you remove the dent.

I can't help you as far as pulling the oil pan while the engine is still in chassis.

I just pull the motor.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

wa90formula350

I'm thinking from your reply that my oil pump is damaged? whats the method used to pull the motor I'm assuming an engine hoist, where do I hook it up at? No manifold to attach the crane to where the carb sits I got F.I.

Engineboy

It depends on how much the pan is dented whether or not you did damage to the pump itself. Usually you just do damage to the oil pickup.

As far as the engine removal, you might ask on this board how hard it is to do the oil pump "in chassis".

I personally have access to a shop with all tools needed to do this job so its actually easier for me to pull the engine.

Usually you can bolt a chain at the front of one head and the back of the other head to pull the engine out.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

wa90formula350

great thanks, I know you have to raise the motor, I've got access to a hoist, I'll do a high volume pump just in case. appreciate your time. take care.
Rob

Vader

Rob,

Since the oil pump pickup does not normally move when the engine is running, it's more likely that you have a rod cap bolt hitting the pan. Keep running it that way and you'll be pulling the engine anyway, since all the oil will drain out when it wears a hole through the sheet metal.

If you decide to weld a pull stud to the pan, it might be more advisable to do so with a full pan. If you are going to spot weld it, you won't generate enough heat to ignite the liquid oil, but an empty pan with only oil vapor might readily burst into flame inside the case. If you were thinking of a torch to weld, forget it.

Engine Boy is correct. You can bolt a chain to the intake manifold-to=head bolts, or bolt lifting plates to the engine in the same locations. You can bolt to the water pump mounting holes, the exhaust manifold holes, or just about anywhere that is threaded into the case itself. A dripping wet SBC weights in at under 600 pounds with iron heads and all the accessories, and a pair of 5/16" or 8mm bolts will easily withstand that little weight.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited November 05, 2000).]

wa90formula350

Thanks Vader and Engineboy, I hav'nt run the motor for more than about 5 min, long enough to rule out a flat lifter as I did some valve work. I had accepted the fact that I would have to pull the oil pan as maybe the oil pump was damaged, thats alot of work though if its the rod hitting the pan, the spot stud welder is quick, couple seconds, we got a three day weekend though, why relax when I can have so much fun with my Firebird, thanks guys. take care
Rob

RB83L69

The oil pump has no exposed moving parts. If you jacked up under the front of the pan, the clearance to the crank is least there, so it's probably smashed up enough for the front counterweight or the #1 & #2 rods to hit the pan.

I would not recommend trying to straighten the pan; it's way hard to do that and guarantee a fit to the crank, while also guaranteeing that all the mating surfaces are straight enough for a leak-free job. I would replace it.

Also there is nothing to be gained from a high-vol oil pump; it will do more harm than good. If you just want to spend money on another one for some reason, get a regular M55; the Mr. Gasket high-pressure spring; and a 55S screen. Personally I don't see any reason to mess with that though.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

wa90formula350

Thanks RB and all others, the pan is not smashed I knew I should not be jacking the engine up with the pan so used some 1/2 particle board that would I hoped distribute the load, so its only dented a little would be easy to straighten. I think I'll try zaping on a couple of the body nails with one of those guns specially made for it they are real fast, anyone done this to tell me not to, I really dont want to pull the motor out AGAIN.

wa90formula350

after some more thought on this I'm gonna buy some of the suction cup pullers the dent is so shallow it seems like it would work and less hastle, I hate to think of adding myself to the Darwin award list, "Man takes his stupid genes out of the genetic pool by welding an oil pan and blows himself up"