I've seen hi volume pumps available with the rebuild kit I'm getting. At first more volume flowing would seem to be a good thing, but I've also heard it affords no real extra protection, and costs extra power to move the extra oil.

What are your opinions?

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I always use standard pressure/volume on all my "builds". The only time you would need more volume is when you expect to be turning high rpms (+6500), which could leave the valvetrain staving for oil with the standard stuff. High pressure is needed, IMHO, when you run loose tolarances or if you are just freshing up the bottom end without pulling the rotating assembly. And higher rpms. Plus for a street engine that will see no more than 5500 rpms, why waste HP turning that high pressure/volume when you are not truely benefiting from it. Kinda like using forged steel for grandma's grocery getter.

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George P. Lara
1994 Z28 LT1 T56
1984 Z28 High Output
Member: SCCA, SCFB, SC3GFB

 

buy a melling m55 and a mr gasket high preasure spring or a melling z28 pump. weld a brace on the pick up tube and bolt it to the pump body or weld the pick up too the pump body. make sure you remove the spring before you weld on the pump.

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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-

 

You asked for opinions, so I'll jump in and give you mine.

For a SBC, a high volume pump is very, very rarely needed. The only time that I would EVER (and I haven’t yet) use a HV pump would be for a open road or roundy-round race engine intentionally built with clearances around .003-.0035”. I keep my clearances at .002-.0025” for ALL my SBC builds, so this isn’t an issue to begin with. The other criteria for using a HV pump would be a pan with at least 7 quart capacity, kick-outs and traps.

A H/V pump will flat drain a 5 quart pan at high rpm use in short time. Look at it this way. How much oil can actually be forced through the galleries to the mains? Not much. The rest gets sent up the pushrods or re-circulated through the pump and gets hot. Both are undesirable.

What’s always worked for me is a S/V Melling M55 with a high pressure (white) spring. They usually come with the HP spring installed any more. Another good pump is the stock GM Z-28 pump. I do get real comfortable and work the block over (drain back holes, port under filter adapter, casting flash removal and de-burring) for a couple hours with an assortment of grinders. I will also use gallery restrictors if I’m running solid lifter (which is rare) and I always plug the filter adapter bypass. The last build, I used lifter valley stand-offs' and am quite pleased with the results.

Mike

 

Ok Ed now you're just showing off.

 

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