They said the ground for the MAF Burn off Relay is the ECM and that's why it was flashing the codes, 34 and 36. Is that accurate/possible? If so, should I just go out and get another stock ECM? I looked on wrenchhead for cmputers and they show alot but none actually say "ECM". Keep in mind I only pretend to know what I am doing as you can probably tell. I don't always get the burnoff failure..If I screw with the connector to the MAF it ussually goes away and the hot wire heats up..but they said it was just coincidence. I don't know..I really don't. Is the ECm easy to replace? Could it be justa loose connection going from the relay to the ECM? Thanks alot guys

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed TPI
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, SES light on)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

I'm no hot wire MAF expert, but I'd guess you found your problem on your own- the connector.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

I'm guessing that your problem is actually in the burn off coil relay. I don't see why you would need a new ECM, but the relay isn't cheap either.

 

WTF is a burn off coil relay? How does that differ from the burn off relay? I hope it's not that expensive..a relay isn't very complicated..the burn off relay is like 11 bucks from pep boys. help..again..thanks

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed TPI
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, SES light on)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

Oops my mistake on the price. Hope I didn't scare you too much. I believe we are talking about the same relay. It's located on the firewall near the brake booster.(I think) The MAF sensor is the expensive part....the relay is cheap.

 

i have to agree with TomP start with the connector, they have kits to replace weatherpak connectors i think you need a special tool for that, it should be in the kit. at any rate the connector should be repaired. thats one pretender to another. at least we try, thats how we learn. good luck.

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TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle

 

Yarn,

They are correct about the relay ground being controlled by the ECM. So are all the other sensor and load grounds, including the injectors. So if the engine runs at all (error codes or not) the ECM DOES have a ground.

Paul's advice is best. For about $10.00 each, you can replace the MAF power and burnoff relays and solve most of your problems. While you're replacing them, clean the connectors for the realys, re-grease the connectors with Lubri-Plate, and clean the electrical connector at the MAF sensor.



------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited October 30, 2000).]

 

change both maf burnoff and maf power relays on the drivers side firewall.
make sure your tps voltage is at .54volts dc.
chances are you dont need a new ecm,,

 

Well, you see, It sounds simple enough, replace the pin connector to the MAF,yes well hmm. No, you can't..It is not worldly possible to find a company that manufactors the 5 pin pigtail. I tried a couple of companys you guys listed and one didnt answer the phone..ever..and the other didn't have it. The diagnostic people swear that the connection was good at the MAF..and I belive them sorta..which makes me think when I mess with the connection at the MAF I am really messing with the wire on the other end..tugging at it in the right way for the damn thing to work. Where does the harness go from the MAF? I can't follow it with my eye's and I find most wiring diagrams to be very confusing. Also, I greatly appreciate Vader's wizardry as well as everyone else's. The biggest problem I am running into replacing the relays is that on my car the Relays look nothing like that..the previous owner had an Accel Ignition installed and it looks like the Electronic Spark Control was replaced with that. I guess that's normal..I don't really know. So, I don't really know which relay to replace and I cant afford 40 bucks for 4 relays that aren't going to do anything if I really do need a new ECM. I know which one the Burn Off is because I hear it click when i turn the car off..I can also feel it if I touch the realy..this was the only way i could figure out which one was which. If I did'nt already say this, it clicks every time, but only once every 25 times does it heat the hot wire. Once again, thanks very much for all the help. 99 percent of my post on this board have been me whining about something not working and I really am glad that there are people out there that are willing to help. Thanks..byebye

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed TPI
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, SES light on)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

Post up a message for "Willie", he's may have a source for this, I recall him chasing a MAF problem, and he replaced and repinned the connector.

 

Damn, this makes me want to go to Pep Boys and see if I can find that 5-pin connector.

I had an MAF problem; I had both a bad connector at the MAF, and a bad wire as it went into the MAF relay. (Keep in mind I've got a v6, my relay's in a different spot). I only had two wires going back to the main harness; a ground wire and signal wire, so I got the whole "end of MAF harness" (relay & connector, inline fuse, MAF connector) for $5 out of a junkyard, swapped it in, and have been happy since.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

Yarnboy, the two relays for the MAF are identical. Get two relays and replace them. IMO that is the place to start.

 

Yarn,

That alone tells me that the relay is operating, but the circuit is not being completed. There is a good chance the relay contacts are failing. Even though the relay is physically closing, the contacts aren't making good contact or the wiring in the circuit is faulty. If you suspect the MAF connector is failing, check a NAPA store for the connector. They can order almost any wetherpack connector in any configuration through Standard Motor Parts.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Pep Boy's, Antitem, Trak Auto, THE DEALER, and Bob's ******* electrical parts store all say that the Pigtail for the 5 pin Bosch is discontinued. I in no way am saying you guys are wrong..this is just what they ALL say after looking it up in the Bosch book. I don't know what to do if replacing the relays doesn't work..you guys swear you can get the connector the stores swear I can't. I always say..well what if I wrecked my car and need a new connector? Then they get mad saying I didn't wreck my car and they just know what the book is telling them. It sure does suck. Thanks alot though guys..I'll go replace the relays and hope my ECM really isn't just taking a dump.

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed TPI
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, SES light on)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)