Blade

Hey guys. I know this is sort of a lame question but I wanted to get some second opinions. After I rebuilt my engine I still get a leak from the timing cover to oil pan mating area. I took extra precaution when I assembled it again by grinding on the timing cover(which is chrome) and the oil pan and putting LOTS of copper permatex RTV in between em in addition to the one piece fel-pro oil gasket that was used. It doesnt leak as bad as it did on the old engine, BUT it still coats the underside of the oil pan and the tranny pan. Pissed me off...

My question is, can this be done again w/out pulling the engine again ? :/ The oil pan will probably have to come down, but is there enough clearance to work in that area ? I can only imagine it dropping like an inch or so not a whole lot more... What do u guys do to keep this area sealed ?!

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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires...

"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)

Vader

Blade,

Ah, the age-old problem of sealing the front cover. You have to make absolutely certain the surfaces are surguically clean and straight. Liberal application of sensor-safe RTV and the correct gasket are essential. You can safely overdo the RTV, wait a couple of days until it cures, then trim the excess with a razor or hobby knife.

All of this can be done with the engine in the vehicle, and CAN be done without dropping the oil pan completely - just loosen the bolts and remove the few in the front. Incidentally, don't be too anxious to start the engine right away. You probably should wait for the RTV to skin thoroughly before exposing it to hot engine oil.

I had a similar fight with a chromed aftermarket front cover. After realizing that the tolerances weren't the same as factory and the steel was thinner, I was ready to clamp the thing in the bench vise and modify the MF'er with my torch until it was a glowing pile of slag on the garage floor. It wouldn't have made it fit any better, but I would have felt "relieved". I solved the problem by getting a better aftermarket cover and spending the few bucks extra that I should have in the first place.

If the cover is weak or distorted, you'll never get a good seal. Thus, the clean and straight requirement.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
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Blade

I see... I have the old cover which is a dull grey color. Maybe I'll paint it red and put it on... LOL I know the original engine with this cover never leaked! It's not like anybody is able to appreciate that chrome cover anyway... u cant even see it! LOL

I'll try to reseal this one and put more RTV in. If that doesnt work I'll put the old cover back on. Thanx for the tips Vader... I'll go get my torch right now *evil grin*... !

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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires...

"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Mine leaks too. So does the oil pan, the rear main, and the fuel pump block off plate. 3k on the new motor Pisses me right off. When that thing was on the stand, my father and I went at a painfully slow, thorough pace. Much more thorough than any mechanic would ever be. Everything leaks. Go team. Now I'm about to do my 3k mile oil change and go to mobil 1. That stuff aught pour right out.

Anyway, how do I get a new timing cover gasket between the cover and the block without pulling the balancer? Also, if I crack the front of the oil pan, what's going to stop that from leaking after? I don't have good luck with cracking seals then having them not leak after. I should just yank the bitch and do it all on a stand again. I wanna do new heads/intake/headers too, so maybe I'll just pull the motor next winter when i have a place of my own.

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merf23

when i changed my cam and leaking oil pan gasket, i used loctight "non hardening" silicone sealer. It seems to be more rubber like and less brittle than the permatex. Also, i have had good luck with the GM black sealer.
I should mention that i clean all the surfaces with acetone before using any gaskets or sealer, i think it cleans the best with minmal residue. Just my $.02

Engineboy

jim85IROC: If I had any oil leaks I sure wouldn't switch to Mobil1

I can tell you first hand what will happen.....

i bought my 99 TA (used) and it had a very little residue coming from the front seal, it was just getting ready to drip...but not quite.

I switched to Mobil1 after a couple of weeks (the leak never got any worse) and 2 days later it was pouring out....I'll tell you this, nothing on the bottom of MY car will ever rust

I'm not knocking Mobil1 in any way, I love the stuff and use it in everything I own, it just gets in places where normal dino oil doesn't go.

As far as replacing the timing cover seal without removing the balancer...no way.



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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
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