Aaron's 87

I'm trying to drop the fuel tank on my 91 GTA to replace the fuel pump. I've got the exhaust unhooked, but I think I may have to cut it apart because someone welded it all together. The rear end is still in, but the panhard bar is removed.

I'm wondering if anyone has successfully cut the filler tube and replaced it with a flexible hose. It would make dropping the tank so much easier. I've searched the archives and read up a lot, but I never found out if anyone successfully did it.

Andy Fanshawe

iTrader: (1)

My exhaust is welded up, so I unbolted the shocks at the axle and dropped the whole axle on to the floor (after disconnecting panhard, brake lines, LCA's etc). I then unbolted the exhaust at the cat flange and dropped the pipe down and pushed it as far to the right (pass side) as I could, out of the way. This worked for me.
There really is no need to cut the filler tube. But, no doubt someone has done it successfully.

Hope I haven't detracted from your question too much!

Andy.

ede

don't cut the filler neck, do as andy said. cutting the neck wouldn't be the smartest thing you could do to your car.

89 CamaroIROCZ

I agree, cutting the neck would only lead to other problems. Do it right the first time, its not that hard. I had no experience taking a rear out of a car or dropping the tank and i successfully did both. Good luck!

Matt

1990GTA

When I did my first fuel pump I had a real hard time getting the filler neck up in there, the guy across the street and my father in law both said cut the filler neck and clamp in a piece of hose. I said "no way, it came out, it will go back in" besides it was also a brand new tank, and I was not going to cut it. I finally got it in, and I have had it out twice since then. It gets easier everytime.

Aaron's 87

I was trying to avoid dropping the rear end.

1990GTA

You dont have to completely drop it out. I had my back tires sitting on ramps, unhooked both shocks and jacked the car up so that I could get the passenger side spring out, the rear was still supported from the tires being on the ramps. If your jacks dont go that high, like mine didnt, use a brick or thick chunk of wood between the car and the jack for extra hieght. With the passenger spring out of the way, and the exhaust, you should be able to get it in there. I have had mine out three times this way. I had to cut my exhaust off (muffler and tailpipes) just in front of the rear end because it is welded on. You will need a jack for each side of the car. BTW, get the tank as empty as you can get it before you try to take it out, it makes so much easier!

TomP

Yeah man, the rear's gotta come down, no way around it. Don't stress the body-to-axle brake hose; it's easy to "hang" that 200 pound axle from the brake hose. Remember to unbolt the bracket holding the hard line to the body; then everything flexes gently down.

1. Raise rear of car by frame points "just in front of" rear lower control arms.
2. Support axle with hydraulic jack, remove tires/wheels
3. Remove lower shock bolts
4. Remove screw of body bracket for hard brake line
5. Remove anti-sway-bar end links
6. Remove track bar (panhard rod)
7. Remove track bar brace

Once the axle's on the ground, you'll be able to unbolt your exhaust from the rear of the catalytic convertor (hopefully THAT spot isn't welded!) and you'll be able to pull your whole exhaust system out of the back of the car. By the way, that's the best/easiest/fastest way to install a cat-back exhaust system on our cars...

Try to replace all those hoses up there. You can use normal fuel hose for the three lines (return, vent, and charcoal canister), they're not under pressure. The pressurized feed line is a special order part from GM.

Aaron's 87

Guess I gotta do it. How does the torque arm like the rear being dropped like that?

The exhaust is welded everywhere - one piece from the manifolds to the muffler tip

TomP

The torque arm shouldn't complain at all. Give it a beer, and it'll be downright happy.

That sucks about the welding job. If I were you, I'd cut the I-pipe in an easily accessible place underneath the car. Then when you're done, take two muffler clamps and a soda can. Cut the soda can "open" and wrap it around the cut; use the muffler clamps to tighten the soda can down onto the pipes. Then drive to a muffler shop and have them weld it up.

You might want to call a shop and find one that's willing to do that first, though. Hell, even if you go to a regular body shop... or a good garage, they'll have a welder. Probably charge you $20.

icenine

I've gotten the tank out with the rear end still in. It's not the easiest thing to pull off. once i got the tank loose and the hoses disconnected i pulled down and twisted the tank (counterclockwise if you look from the rear passenger side) the end of the neck got caught on part of the frame right inside where the neck would come out. i put a hammer end in and pryed it off the lip of the frame. It came out intact, except for a few scrapes on the fuel lines and the neck.

87cam305

I just did the same thing to my car two days ago and what everybody is saying is what I had to do but there is two bolts the mount the sway bar to the body on each side just un bolt those it will be alot easer then removing the links themselvs. good luck

TransAmTBI

dont cut the neck cause you really dont have to just finagle it out!! it will take work but its not that bad... i think the worst part of putting the fuel tank is putting it back in because i always have trouble with the straps that hold it in!

the exaust is a tough one i would get a sawzaa and cut it after the cat somewhere and then get a connector and u clamp it together! as for the actuall muffler it should unbolt and you could get the exaust out by pulling it out the back end with it disconnected at the cat.

droppiong the rear is no big deal at allit doesnt even drop that far...just enough to get tank out! no straighn on any of the lines good luck maybe one day i'll have enough ***** to drop mine for a 4th time to change my fuel sender!! lol

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Remove the rear end, and unbolt your exhaust at the cat or Y pipe and pull it out in one piece, you'll learn the fuel tank fussing, cursing, and fighting all go away with a little turn of the gas tank.

88Camaro350

I disconnected my exhaust at the cat and it moved out of the way enough. I took my tires off and got it out of the way enough. You have to lower the rearend alot. Don't cut the filler neck...its a PITA but take a few hours off if you get frustrated and try again.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Like I said.... ignore all those telling you to just lower the axle, and yeah sure bend the filler neck a bit etc.... i've tried it that way, it can work, if you dont mind the wrong way, a fight, some cursing and screaming along with frustration. Instead of patiently removing the axle and exhaust, then unbolting the tank, rotating it towards the front and out it drops no bending, no forcing, no frustration.

Ukraine Train

my exhaust is all one piece from the y-pipe to the tips and when i did my pump i just pushed it out of the way as much as i could and i dropped the axle. the tank came out pretty easy but was a real bear to get back in because of the filler neck. i just noticed the other day, though, that on the inside of the left rear wheel well is a plastic cover that comes out easily and allows you access to feed the filler neck through the subframe