Fuel pressure leakdown solved
#1
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Fuel pressure leakdown solved
I am one of many who converted from carb to TPI. I am also lazy and choose not to pull my tank again to install a fuel pump, so I went with the in-line pump.
Well, in-line pumps do not have checkvalves so the pressure drops to zero instantly when the car is off. Makes for extended cranking times.
I solved it by buying a $12 in-line ball check valve (brass) and installed it today. Guess what, it works! I'm so proud of myself. The hardest part was finding one snd I found one at this site:
www.mcmaster.com./
Do a search for "compact ball check valve"
------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Heads, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine belt setup.
Well, in-line pumps do not have checkvalves so the pressure drops to zero instantly when the car is off. Makes for extended cranking times.
I solved it by buying a $12 in-line ball check valve (brass) and installed it today. Guess what, it works! I'm so proud of myself. The hardest part was finding one snd I found one at this site:
www.mcmaster.com./
Do a search for "compact ball check valve"
------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Heads, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine belt setup.
#2
JM,
Thanks for replying with the results. This will be very helpful to remind us all that a good fuel pump is necessary for proper starting. We are always eager to blame a stuck injector or bad FPR for the inability to hold pressure, probably since none of us is fond of changing fuel pumps.
If I'm not mistaken, I recall the discussion about your fuel problem but I can't seem to fing the thread in the archives. If I gave the customary advice, I probably mentioned checking the fuel pump pressure and leakdown tests, including pinching the return and supply hoses. Sorry if I missed that one.
The McMaster-Carr catalog is a good source for a lot of hard-to-find parts. I use industrial suppliers almost daily, and another good source is MSC - http://www.mscdirect.com . They have a similar line of products. Between the two of them, Grainger, and your local industrial suppliers, you can find a lot of creative solutions to mechanical problems. Another good resource for locating products or companies is Thomas Registers.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Thanks for replying with the results. This will be very helpful to remind us all that a good fuel pump is necessary for proper starting. We are always eager to blame a stuck injector or bad FPR for the inability to hold pressure, probably since none of us is fond of changing fuel pumps.
If I'm not mistaken, I recall the discussion about your fuel problem but I can't seem to fing the thread in the archives. If I gave the customary advice, I probably mentioned checking the fuel pump pressure and leakdown tests, including pinching the return and supply hoses. Sorry if I missed that one.
The McMaster-Carr catalog is a good source for a lot of hard-to-find parts. I use industrial suppliers almost daily, and another good source is MSC - http://www.mscdirect.com . They have a similar line of products. Between the two of them, Grainger, and your local industrial suppliers, you can find a lot of creative solutions to mechanical problems. Another good resource for locating products or companies is Thomas Registers.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
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