Removing crank pulley bolts?
#1
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Removing crank pulley bolts?
How in the heck do I remove the crank pulley bolts? theres 3 of them. also the big one in the middle of the crank pulley, how do I remove that too.
When I try to use a rachet and socket, the motor turns....
so what now?
When I try to use a rachet and socket, the motor turns....
so what now?
#2
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Assume you took the belt off? If so, put it back on, hold the tension side with one hand, ratchet in the other. The belt should grab the pulley enough.
You could use a flywheel turning tool, but it'll take one under the car to hold it on place until it wedges.
You could use a flywheel turning tool, but it'll take one under the car to hold it on place until it wedges.
#3
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
AH, well, everything is off the front of the motor, I am getting it ready for a cam, springs and rocker change this weekend.
and nowhere did I read that the crank pulley should come off first.
and nowhere did I read that the crank pulley should come off first.
#4
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
a air gun will get it off no prob...
otherwise you have to stop the engine from turning some how...
you can use the belt to hold it...
or you can jam the flywheel/flexplate some how...
if its a manual, you can put it in gear with the ebrake on, and it will stop the engine from turning.
otherwise you have to stop the engine from turning some how...
you can use the belt to hold it...
or you can jam the flywheel/flexplate some how...
if its a manual, you can put it in gear with the ebrake on, and it will stop the engine from turning.
#5
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
I tried an air rachet and it wont break the bolts loose.
HOLY CRAP! dont tell me Im screwed! I know I cant be the only one that has run into this problem.
I swear I have the worst luck!
HOLY CRAP! dont tell me Im screwed! I know I cant be the only one that has run into this problem.
I swear I have the worst luck!
#6
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Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
... not an air rachet ... and air impact gun. That's how I do it every time. I'm in the middle of putting my 4th cam in the stock shortblock and again used the air impact gun to remove the bolts. Took all of 30 seconds to take out all 4 bolts.
http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/LE...y/DCP_1761.JPG
Tim
http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/LE...y/DCP_1761.JPG
Tim
#7
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Thanks TRAX!
I knew I was missing something,.......I'll go get an impact gun tomorrow...
DAMN and I thought I got myself in a big screw up!
I knew I was missing something,.......I'll go get an impact gun tomorrow...
DAMN and I thought I got myself in a big screw up!
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#8
Or you can spend less than $10 and get a strap wrench to hold the balancer hub while you break the bolts loose. It's also a handy tool to have to hold the crank for torquing the center bolt, positioning the engien for static timing, and many other uses.
If you allow the loose end of the strap to dangle and swing the handle, you can even use it to spank your monkey - provided your monkey has done something to deserve a spanking.
If you allow the loose end of the strap to dangle and swing the handle, you can even use it to spank your monkey - provided your monkey has done something to deserve a spanking.
#9
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
well alright! damn my monkey can use a spankin every now and then!
but on a serious note, where can I get the tool your taking about Vader? whats the name of it?
but on a serious note, where can I get the tool your taking about Vader? whats the name of it?
#10
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
You could just take a regular screw driver and place it between the flywheel and the block to stop it from moving. The tip might break off while you are removing the damper bolt. That's why they have "lifetime warranties" right?
I'm with Trax and Vader though about using either impacts or strap wrenches. Either can be gotten at Sears or a hardware store.
I'm with Trax and Vader though about using either impacts or strap wrenches. Either can be gotten at Sears or a hardware store.
#11
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You could also get a flywheel locking tool instead of the screwdriver. All it does is replaced the starter and locks the flywheel in place. Very easy and makes tightning everything back down easy too. It's what I use. Works like a charm!
#12
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
any pictures of these gadgets in action? IIm think my best bet with be to gt th impact gun. I can always torque down the crank bolts when the belts are on an everything is almost back together. right?
#13
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
the correct name for a strap wrench is..... a strap wrench.
impacts are great to have to take stuff apart with, but really arnt the best way to put stuff together....
so if you wait until you can put the belt on, then yea you can use the belt to install it...
or you can jsut get a strap wrench now.
ive done it before that way, but i didnt think of it until vader reminded me...
btw, its easier if you find someone to hold the wrench while you turn the bolts....
impacts are great to have to take stuff apart with, but really arnt the best way to put stuff together....
so if you wait until you can put the belt on, then yea you can use the belt to install it...
or you can jsut get a strap wrench now.
ive done it before that way, but i didnt think of it until vader reminded me...
btw, its easier if you find someone to hold the wrench while you turn the bolts....
#15
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
impact wrench worked like a charm!!! thanks guys....damn I feel so stupid sometimes....
can someone answer me this question? Do I have to have the car at TDC on the #1 piston before I remove the harmonic balancer and the cam? or does it not matter where the motor is at?
I wont remove the balancer till I get an anwser.......hey thats the only way to learn is ask questions.....this is my first time going into a motor ....
can someone answer me this question? Do I have to have the car at TDC on the #1 piston before I remove the harmonic balancer and the cam? or does it not matter where the motor is at?
I wont remove the balancer till I get an anwser.......hey thats the only way to learn is ask questions.....this is my first time going into a motor ....
#16
It's a good idea to leave it at TDC but you'll be needing to set it manually to degree your cam later anyway.
I usually set TDC and then mark the end of the crank with a spot of paint @ 12 O'clock.
BTW for future reference when no impact wrench is available but one is needed you can hit a wrench with fast taps from an avg hammer for a simmilar effect.
Also once you get the timing cover off there should be marks to line up on the timing gears for TDC.
I usually set TDC and then mark the end of the crank with a spot of paint @ 12 O'clock.
BTW for future reference when no impact wrench is available but one is needed you can hit a wrench with fast taps from an avg hammer for a simmilar effect.
Also once you get the timing cover off there should be marks to line up on the timing gears for TDC.
Last edited by gmsmallblockguy; 07-23-2003 at 05:11 PM.
#17
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
I just got back from AZ I went to rent a Harmonic puller......I also asked the guy about it and he said it wouldnt matter cause as soon as I remove the CAM any mark that I make would be off...to set it on TDC is to align the marks on the timing gear before I pull the gears and that would put me at TDC...but as Im typing this, when I pull the CAM wont that throw off the marks too? when I slide the new cam in how will I know the CAM is aligned on TDC?
sorry for all the dumb ?'s
sorry for all the dumb ?'s
#18
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
When you install the new cam, you align the marks on the gears of the crank and the cam. The mark on the crank gear points straight up and the mark on the cam gear points straight down. Use a straight edge to ensure you have it dead on. This is how the cam is phased for proper valve events. After that, you should degree the cam to ensure it is installed correctly and ground correctly. If I were you I would also install a new timing set, good PM. Some people do not degree the cam and you do not HAVE to, but it is a good practice.
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