Brake Fluid has Particles in it !
#1
Brake Fluid has Particles in it !
Hi,
I have an 88 GTA. It's possible the brake fluid is the original fluid.
I am working on my brakes, and noticed actual flecks of black "dirt" in the fluid in the master cylinder! I spooned some of it it out and examined it closely. When I rubbed the flecks , some dissolved back into the fluid, but some of them felt gritty and stuck to my finger. What the heck ?
Is this what happens to old brake fluid ?
Thanks
I have an 88 GTA. It's possible the brake fluid is the original fluid.
I am working on my brakes, and noticed actual flecks of black "dirt" in the fluid in the master cylinder! I spooned some of it it out and examined it closely. When I rubbed the flecks , some dissolved back into the fluid, but some of them felt gritty and stuck to my finger. What the heck ?
Is this what happens to old brake fluid ?
Thanks
#2
It is less likely to be from the fluid being "old" and more likely the particles of seals that are disintegrating on the cover, 'O' rings from the master cylinder pisons, or debris that was inadvertently introduced into the system by careless filling/checking.
Brake hydraulics is nothing to underemphasize. Without a reliable hydraulic system, you'll have no brakes (except for guard rails, trees, other vehicles, structures, etc.) and should repair it A.S.A.P.
You can start by loosening all the bleeder screws on all four wheels. If you haven't done that for a few years, they'll most surely be rusted in place. Soak them in penetrating oil for a fwe days, then carefully try to loosen them.
Once you get the bleeder screws loose, you'll have to completely flush the brake system with clean, fresh fluid. Clean out the master cylinder reservoir with lint-free cloths or towels, then add fresh brake fluid. Once the reservoir is cleaned and refilled, you'll need to flush the system lines. That can be done by pressure tank, gravity, or with the aid of an assistant pumping the brake pedal while you alternately open and close the bleeders to bleed fluid. Bleed all fluid into a clean container so you can monitor the fluid condition as it is drained. Flush the system until it appears clean and contaminant free at every bleeder location.
Once that's done, continue to monitor the fluid condition in the reservoir for new contamination.
Brake hydraulics is nothing to underemphasize. Without a reliable hydraulic system, you'll have no brakes (except for guard rails, trees, other vehicles, structures, etc.) and should repair it A.S.A.P.
You can start by loosening all the bleeder screws on all four wheels. If you haven't done that for a few years, they'll most surely be rusted in place. Soak them in penetrating oil for a fwe days, then carefully try to loosen them.
Once you get the bleeder screws loose, you'll have to completely flush the brake system with clean, fresh fluid. Clean out the master cylinder reservoir with lint-free cloths or towels, then add fresh brake fluid. Once the reservoir is cleaned and refilled, you'll need to flush the system lines. That can be done by pressure tank, gravity, or with the aid of an assistant pumping the brake pedal while you alternately open and close the bleeders to bleed fluid. Bleed all fluid into a clean container so you can monitor the fluid condition as it is drained. Flush the system until it appears clean and contaminant free at every bleeder location.
Once that's done, continue to monitor the fluid condition in the reservoir for new contamination.
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10-03-2015 01:43 PM