ok so my real good friend who builds drag engines pointed out something that never really hit me until he said something.

for one, smoothing out the intake ports, is a bad idea due to the air and fuel sliding in more than mixing. the burrs help it alot more than they hurt it

opening up the intake ports also only help high end power, not low end, its like blowing air through a 1/4 inch wide straw vrs a full one inch wide straw, ...sure more air goes through, but it doesnt get there as fast.

i want low end power.

polishing the combustion chambers to a glossy finish? No. creates hot spots due to un even polishing cause by amature do-it--yourselfers.

grinding down the valve guides? disrupts matched airflow to all cyls. should only be done if you have access to a flow bench.

only things that really help would be ...polishing/de-burring the exhaust ports and be-durring the combustion chamber with a file type deal, maybe even a flap wheel.

so everyone is going to completly disagree with all stated physical facts, and prolly disown me, ban me from the board, and hate me.

but facts are facts, and home porting is just all around a bad idea.
unless you you have a flow bench to match all ports n stuff.

so commence to tell me im stupid. but im just slapping these lb9s on slightly moded and living with it.

 

No; we're just going to hope that you're the guy in the other lane come finals.

 

 

ROFLMFAO!!!!!

 

What do you think the odds of that might be?

 

i have to say thanks man, that made my day :sillylol:

 

so , thats it? no trying to prove physics wrong? you seriously suggest home porting and polishing without the proper tools to meter the actual air flow?? are you telling me its GOOD for an engine to have more air.fuel going into 4 cyls than the other?

im not saying porting and polishing is bs, im saying HOME porting and polishing is bs. unless you have a flowbench.

so yeah, less moching , more trying to prove a point, maturely.

meanwhile, you people can weaken your cast iron heads by messing up stable air flow and cause air/fuel to not be in suspension properly, i however am getting it done right, with the right heads.

sure home porting and polishing can be done, ....same goes for a root canal. question is, is this a GOOD idea?

 

So GM cast imperfections in the intake ports on purpose. A lot of guys have ported heads for alot of years with out a flow bench. They used a race track instead. Guess they are full of.

Why is it that every body on here has a friend that builds race engines except me? Damn, I swear I see that all of the time. Would have come in handy when I put my car together.

 

fine. i'll bite.


yes i believe that the SLIGHT diff between cyls is ok.

know why?



because on my street machine, there will be carbon build up... it just happens. and know what? that makes them uneven anyway.


i agree on a couple points...

1. leave the intake port a little rough...dont smooth out the intake...mostly just round out the contours and make the flow transition between the head and the intake good.... note that i didnt say hog the fug out of the ports.

2, if you arnt confident enough that you wont fugg up the head, put down the grinder and step away right now. confident? good. so is the guy takeing your money from the machine shop... everyone has to start out sometime.

3 id polish the combustion chamber. why? because that makes it so hot spots wont occur. think about it. if you have a little piece of metal sticking up, it will get hotter..... smooth everything out and you dont get the same hot spots..... thats the nice thing about CNC heads.... you dont have to do all that work, they do it for you.





in anycase, you obviously dont seem confident enough to attempt stuff like that at home, and with lb9s its not really worth it to take them to a shop...


so i would just slap them on as is....


i'll see you in the staging lanes.....

PS, i usually like the left lane.

 

theres lots of talk on how to do it properly, jsut search around. Its recommended that the intake ports not be polished to a mirror finish. If its properly done, even by hand, youll definatly see benifits. As for weakening the casting, unless your going crazy porting out the runner to gain volume you probably wont have problem unless the core shifted really bad. So long as you only smooth and blend the intake runner without significantly altering the volume of the runner, you can only help performance. Even if you dont match all the ports perfectly each cylinder will still, overall, get more air, exaust more efficiently (assuming you ported the exaust ports) and make more power. I mean, c'mon, your not running an NHRA dragster, just a street car. Some minor variences in flow wont disrupt your engine too much.

 

oh, and if you think every cyl in a V8 with a carb on it gets a equal amount of air and fuel...........





........... you are grossly misinformed.




(i wanted to say somthing else, but the mods get pissy when i talk like that )

 

Lol.. That last one is a good point. Only system that gives a consistent charge per cylinder is MPFI systems. Carb doesnt, neither does TBI.

 

hmm, well while we're on the subject.. polishing my plenum and runners(TPI) to a mirror shine inside and out would only help right?

 

Yep..cause the runners only flow air not fuel.

 

So do you think castings from GM come with each runner identical? And do you think they flow test each runner on each head to make sure they are flowing the same amount?

And as far as physics goes. Velocity is created when a fluid goes from a larger cross sectional area to a smaller one. So while your blowing through straws also go look at a garden hose. Notice how the nozzle that makes it spary fast with a lot of pressure has a real small hole compared to the hose itself. It's kind of like a large intake runner opening heading down into a smaller valve opening. So increasing the size of the entrance as compared to the valve opening by fluid dynamics laws increases velocity.

 

this is getting annoying.



i think everyone on this board now knows that larger = slower velocity



i read alot on this board... and anytime someone talks about exhaust, ports, valves, intakes, ANYTHING having to do with air... some one has to mention that.....

i mean fuggin COMEON people... we dont all have to know that you know that fact.... esp if its already mentioned in the thread above... GRRRRR





and not to mention, ever hear of the venturi effect? SHAPE has jsut as much to do as size.. it isnt as cut and dry as that tries to make it sound.....


i swear, sometimes you people...........




im going to bed.

 

vader:

i used to live in SC... my parents still do.

there are only two 1/4 mile tracks in the state.

so im sure that if i visit my parents sometime this year, my odds are pretty good.

 

it sounds like you listened to what someone who knws what they are doing told you.

unfortunately, it sounds as if they didnt go into enough detail, on each of the points to make it understood, to what extent each point is made.

its cool, dont port your heads, be slow, and be grateful you arent getting +/- 10cfm per port, because heavens to betsy, that might cost you 5/7 horsepower, whereas by NOT having decent heads, you are losing on 10....15....20....30....hp?

just because Fuel injection systems with dry manifolds dont flow air/fuel together in the intake, doesnt mean they all get the same charge, in fact, due to airs tendency to flow on the high side of the port, and the outside, etc. each cylinder/port gets its air in a different way.

ask a ford EFI guy how evenly his intake flows, and then watch how much that changes when boost is introduced.


adam

 

The only was you'll really know is to try it.

 

Slow,

You have reached the point where you either have to poop or get off the pot.

We are all getting tired of your excuses NOT to do anything with your heads. You are simply wasting space on this forum

 

unported heads, best kept speed secret in the racing and preformance world.

 

ok i was just correcting half of everyone misguided judgement , seeing how more than half of the peopl eon this board are do it yourselfers and basicly are just relaying what they have heard from here.

like i said, i dont expect anyone to agree with me, but low and behold someone agreed with half of what i said, im sure im not 100% correct, but i kno wim at least 75% correct.

more fuel/air doesnt mean faster take off. actually its a fslower take off then eventually a hog wild grand finale on a 1/4 it adds hp yes. never stated that it didnt, i said i wanted low end power.
therefore im not widening anything .

slightly deburr the intake? sure, ....polish? no.

seriously, ive seen some people give the intakes a mirror shine and brag about it , and this only amuses me. this should only be done to the exhaust ports.

i just hate how people sit on here and go off on someone for having a different idea/theory than the rest. NONE of us got here by following the crowd, so lets try to be a little more open minded ok? take everyones opinions into consideration, and be NICE about this. not point andf laugh, and go hahaha you are stupid.

ive seen people here ask which way tightens a bolt and which way loosens, did i laugh? no. ok well a little, but still.

 

Don't believe everything you hear. You say you watch people go off on others for having a different idea, yet you're calling everyone misguided and laughing at them. Sounds like you're a bit off base there.

Have your low end power. It won't make you go fast. Everyone with TPI knows that. I don't see any of your physical/physics related evidence anywhere supporting what you said, by the way, so why should anyone bother scrounging any up for you? There's nothing to debate. You don't know what you're talking about.

By the way, ever heard of a self-fulfilling prophecy?

 

put the heads on your car and have fun

 

more air still means more power

sure if you hog the ports out to the max you have the ABILITY to flow more air
but in all truth at low rpms since velocity is low you are going to get less air

when you port the heads your not always making things bigger

a lot of people only port to redirect the air and make things flow smoother

that means more CFM... and more power at ALL RPMS ranges
and they are only adding maybe 2-5cc to the runners

wouldn't say that is going to kill low end like going from a 190cc to a 215cc head

the smart people don't just sit there and hog out there runners..... and you don't need a flow bench just to do a little work.

and I have seen gains of up to 30hp by taking some heads and doing some work to them.... and this helped low end torque as well


as for polishing
I agree. sure some can do it and get it to work....... I might be one of them being my injector sits right near the port (semi-direct injection system). my injector sits right before the intake port. though I do have one in the injector as well.... 2 injectors in a staged setup per cylinder *shrug*.

with polishing the cumbustion chambers
it should reduce carbon buildup with will lead to hot spots. also it reduces the amount of sharp objects which would lead to hot spots..... I donno even at home I think it would be worth it.



uneven air flow.... even with a fuel injection, MPFI, or anysort of fuel injection most all of them have some flow differences.... carbs are VERY BAD for that though


s

 

Porting is always good.

Polishing is not always recommended for carbed cars, since the fuel/air are still mixing when in the intake/head. However, for EFI, only air is passing through the intake, so polishing is a good idea, in order to smooth out the airflow.

 

No, i am sorry, personaly i am a DIY'er that likes to do lots of research before doing something, because i could have accedently read a thread like the one you started, and bolted untouched heads onto my car.

sorry Mr. Physics, but MORE air/fuel ALWAYS equals more power. period. not matter waht RPM, the key is knowing at what port size/shape you are getting the most air/fuel for you desired RPM range and engine combo.

do you think this is some sort of revolation? we ALL know that you dont' want to mirror polish the intake. i don't recall anyone every saying that is the right move. when i port i am not going for huge straight ports, i am going for smoot air transitions, and a nicely shaped ventury on the intake runner. i am in agreement (as are we all) that bigger isn't better. but smooth airflow on a mildly ported heads, is MUCH better than untouched stock castings.

 

im just going by the many articles ive read and seen pics of mirror finish polish jobs.

anyways, like i said, i put myself out ther eto be picked on by posting this thread but it obviously did more good than bad seeing how i know i was at least half correct.

so ill bow down, say everyone *almost* is right, ...ok maybe 3 of you made sense, the rest, blah, ...just went off on a senseless rant and tried to be*better than thou* ty for the few whom replied with sense, ..the rest that claimed i know nothing, kma.

half of the posts on here about porting and polishing are intended for tpi, not tbi and carb, i was just pointing out that the method i chose to use was NOT intended for tpi.

so uhm... sorry heh

i still think polishing the combustion chambers is a bad idea due to deep uneven spots....file down the burrs?? hell yeah...mirror like finish? hell no.

take off the uneven trasitions? of course....shave down the valve guide? ...not me.

im not good with a dremel, always sucked at arts and crafts. ill hurt more than i help

once again sorry for me being misguided , stupid, simple, and retarded.

--guessing that sums up what everyone wants to hear--

 

The only place a polish hurts a wet flow system is in the intake runners. Those should be left an 80 grit finish.

Polishing the exhaust ports only helps. How much over an 80 grit finish? Probably not a lot, but it only helps. It won't hurt anything.

Polishing the combustion chamber will only help. The point of getting the finish smooth is not only to help eliminate hot spots, but it's also to induce swirl as the piston is on the compression stoke. The easier you make if for the air to move around in the combustion area, the better mixture you'll get, and the more efficiency the engine will become. Efficiency = power.

Smoothing the transition from the guide to the roof of the port probably helps the exhaust more than it does the intake, but smoothing it down (whether it be reducing it's thickness, or just blending the edges) will only help.

I think the things your friend is talking about, is people that get crazy. Some guys go in there with a will to DESTROY!!! They normally start in the throat just above the valve and enlarge it to the same size as the seat. That's a NO NO.

Keep the throat no larger than 85% of the seat, and all is good. This is what helps keep the velocity up even though you're enlarging everything fore and aft.

I agree that polishing the intake runner is not good. IMHO, it would also be risky in TPI runners. I know there's no fuel before the injector, but keeping the port at an 80 grit finish would help keep the air "active" (for lack of a better word). Since the air and fuel have a limited amount of time to mix, keeping the air's movement high would seem beneficial. That's just my thoughts on it. It may hold no truth.

Another area that A LOT of people waste their time on is trying to enlarge the area around the pushrod slot. It's a good idea to smooth it out, but enlarging it gains very little, if any flow.

If you want an easy route to go, concentrate on the throat area (I.E. pocket porting). That's where most of the sharp edges are. AAMOF, that’s the area that most gains are made. All the added work (polishing chamber, exhaust port, smoothing valve guides) doesn't pay back as well considering the vast amount of time that's needed to do those things. Especially in an 80% street/20% strip car.

FYI, iron doesn't keep a polish as well as people think. Put that engine through one heat/cool cycle in a humid environment. Do that daily and it won't take but one week for surface rust to take it's course. Aluminum would be better suited for that.

 

lol
notice your percentage of being right keeps dropping there


also I would think the porting for TBI, carb, TPI, or any other sort of induction would be the same.... smooth the transitions without making the port larger...... UNLESS you want pure high rpm power

shaving the valve guides does a good job and producing power being that is a HUGE restriction area. but yeah guess you can make things a little different as far as flow ranges from one cylinder to the next

and the combustion chambers
if you smooth the whole thing down but miss a spot or two I doubt you are going to have problems with detonation.
it still can't be any worse then the stock cast rough edge that is made...
only downside is you might end up making for a slightly lower compression ratio.... or the issue that fuel doesn't burn too well when up against the cylinder head and that little rough edge might help keep the flame front going.... not sure on that last one though.

but either way even if you mirror it out and do a somewhat chitty job your still better off then stock.... and you are going to have less of a chance of carbon buildup on the head which is EVEN WORSE for hot spots


don't worry every board needs a village idiot... why do you think we keep you around






P.S. am I one of those better then thou or trying to help people...



EDIT: stupid AJ you got in my way on this post

 

""but facts are facts, and home porting is just all around a bad idea.
unless you you have a flow bench to match all ports n stuff.""

Regardless of your accuracies or inaccuracies in your first post...the above statement is totally misinformation for egine enthusiasts.


The reason why you have 50% agreement..is because you only stated 50% correct information. Ofcourse the nature of your intended engine, could dictate otherwise.

I see where you're after lowend power....could you elaborate a bit please? i/e what do you feel "lowend power" is? Also the intended purpose of your build...it might go towards some assistance in what you're trying to accomplish.

 

that is a good point
what is low end power
to some that is off idle to maybe 2000rpms

to me low end power is 2000-3500rpms
my mid range is about 3500-5000
high end is that 5000-7000

but still porting the heads will make for better low end power (well 1200-3000) power if you do it right anyway

 

when i say low end i mean more of low end power im saying from idle to 3500 .....thats a crucial lul for me for some reason..*tbi?*
i make way more mid to upper power for some reason...so i was just thinking simple physics, smaller area air/fuel gets there quicker...and in a finer line......

im not stupid, just incorrect. so sorry for making false claims

question, my L03 heads are gasket matched, is this factory or are these moded.

l03s on the hgarage floor, ....guess ill start semi porting and polishing tomarrow.

im not going all out, just smoothing out the exhaust, and gasket matching, then if i do a decent job who knows, i might do the whole thing. i just fear cutting into a waterjacket or damaging the valve guides.

 

if it takes THAT long to get to 3500 get a stall.
or if its a 5 speed, learn how to drive.


adam

 

i hate when people tell me to do crap ive already done..first off i can drive, secondly i have a 2500 stall converter. i just want massive torque and low end power. thats all there is to it.

 

ditch the TBI and go TPI.

 

Now you're contradicting yourself.

You have a 2500 stall TQ, but you're worried about low RPM torque. Why? Why build a lot of power in an RPM range your car will rarely see?

Someone has mislead you something terrible. Perhaps they need a lesson in simple logic.

If a boat is traveling downstream, and you want to go downstream, why use a big propeller that's made to push the boat upstream? Use a smaller propeller that will make you go FASTER while traveling downstream.

 

Build A 400sbc..!

 

This past winter I ported the 396 heads, gasket-matched the intake, and opened up the header flanges. Opened things up a bunch, especially the intake manifold and exhaust. Intake tracts were left at 80 grit, chambers and exhaust were mirror-polished. I expected to lose low-end and gain upper end since I didn't change cam or converter (both somewhat on the mild side).

I had a racer/engine builder grind the valves and assemble the heads for me. He said I did basically what he has done to his engines - he has several season track championships to his credit (other racers told me he told them he was impressed with this amateur's work; this was my 2nd attempt at porting, the Worlds on the 305 being the 1st).

Here's the thread with the results https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=bbc (includes links for reference to the head porting). I gained over a tenth in 60', and over 1 mph at the top end.

No flow bench, no butt-dyno, no magazine-mechanic testimonials; just real-world, documented track data.

 

I don't want to claim that I am an expert on head porting or anything but I have spent alot of time and study on it. It's been 6 years or so but I ported a few at home and have a few sugjestions that weren't mentioned in this thread for those of you who want to get a good home porting job.

Keep in mind that I tride my best not to be influenced by anyone elses opinions when I did this and that is why I did it alone in my basement. Also I called my shop "Backwoods Modified" for more than one reason.

One thing that was lightly touched on in this thread was port work in the transition area of the runner. A larger intake runner we all know will reduce velocity in the runner while increasing the volume allowed to flow through it.
A polished runner will allow more stable(denser) air but also more wetting and therefore separation of the air/fuel. I liked the garden hose nozzel analogy. It really does apply. Where it applies is the bottom of the curve in the transition area right before the down turn towards the valve. This is commonly refered to as the "Short Side Radius". It is impossible for me to describe in words I have been sitting here trying to figure out how to explain it in detail but cannot. Let me explain how I found this out and maybe some of you other die hard do it your selfers can bennifit.

My first step was that I talked to alot of machinists to get what I needed to cut on iron as they were abundant in my home town. Then I made my own primative flow bench. I used a few 4x4s, some 4" plexiglass tubing, some 2" plexiglass tubing, a heat gun to fit the tubing, some weather stripping, a shop vac, and a spray nozzel from a 409 bottle.

Any good DIY'er should be able to figure out how this works but here is a quick explination.

4"x4" pieces of wood are cut to about 5" lenght and are used to hold the head on the workbench over the 4"plexi tube wich gets connected to the suction end of the shop vac. The 2" plexi tube is headted and molded to fit up tight to the intake runner. The 409 nozzle is fitted to a hole in the 2" using permatex to seal it in. The other end of the 2" tube is connected to the exhaust end of the shop vac. A socket on the back end of the rocker arm and tightening of the rocker nut will let you open the valve to your desired max lift or any height you desire to see your flow under.

This setup won't tell you cfm ratings or recreate the velocity generated by your engine, but it lets you see what is happening and can really help when it comes to choosing the best lift for your cam.

I played arround with this setup for months. I spent the most time trashing old 58cc iron heads and focused most of my work into the downturn area. I first removed the valve and hogged out then polished the outside of the curve to make the flow do a bit more than a 90 degree turn on the outside. I then found a sweet spot in the shortside radius by welding on more material in that area and grinding it with a die grinder and dental drill. First just playing with gradual vs sharper radius curves then making a sort of cliff that had a sharp angle on the surface facing the valve. That is when I started to see vaporization so I started moving that angle arround and found that by making a flat spot in the shortside curve at the right angle and making the shortside start out gradual and work to a sharper curve towards the valve the liquid in the runner would become vapor again and could be directed at the valve opening when the right angle and shortside curve was established. The same thing works when you make a small lip on the long side of the down turn. This effect is exagerated by the angle on the edge of the valve when your spray from the ledges you made hit the back of the valve in the right spot.

This is all from my own limited experience and time and by no means is it the best way to get the best port job. I was able to get great low end velocity this way and my intake runners were ported quite far and polished with 80 grit and wire brush. I did this a long time ago and do not recall the exact numbers I never had access to a flow bench or dyno at the time but those heads on a balanced 350 with a long durration arround 260@.05/ medium lift arround .450 cam, milled out Q-jet, and an msd box kept up up to 7,500 rpm. It pulled hard enough to bend a stock controll arm and passenger side axel tube.

I hope this helps some of you get better at your own porting and hope it saves you some money. I myself tend to do most of my own work not because I want to save lots of money(even though it's nice) I do it because I hate to pay someone for a job when I feel I could do it with more care and maybe better myself.

 

ok so, for one, i never knew how hard it was to get the stock head gasket material off until just now, ..took hour an a half to get ONE gasket off the block....just thought id like to add that .

ok so, since im going to semi soo port and polish...meaning gasket match, and polish up the exhaust ports....

how much valve guide can i remove SAFELY..without weakining it a bunch....should i just cut gring down the egdes, or literally grind it down a 1/4 inch. Then shave the sides down ....not too sure what its supposed to look like as a finished project. everyones port n polish pics on here are crappy quality pics.

 

Just read the first part of this thread, but unless someone hasnt added this polishing hot spots is smells kinda fishy. Check your sources. Are you talking about the metal geting to hot when polishing and like waprping or something? Or getting to close to a water jacket and heating that way?

Either way I agree that polishig is definately belony, and here's the physics behind why. When skin friction is made it is from the molecules and elements coliding, and they give each other heat because the knocking between the atoms gives the atoms kinetic energy, which is the definition of heat. When you polish the metal there is more particle to particle contact. What works the best (employed in fighterjets and stuff like that, note they arent glossy metal) is the shark skin approach; what a shark skin hs is ridges that trap and pile up the water molecules so the atom to atom contact is between only the fluid (water or air) This works especially well in non polar atoms, (Nitrogen, oxygen) because there isnt electrostatic attraction as there are with polar molecules (water) So I havent tested anything yet, not that I have the means to, but I think sanding the ports with perpindicular to the air flow.

 

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm


read that 4 or 5 times, look at all the pictures, and study them.

 

well, thats true as well, but what i was meaning was that the ridges help disipate heat more than a smooth flas surface..kind of the way a heat sink works. altho this would be reverse so the ridges may attract heat. but yes a smooth surface gives more area for atoms to group cloesly and cause more heat. the ridges disrupt the stability.

so ..conbustion chamber stays stock, MAYBE filed down a lil with a sand flap ....gasket match, and polish up the exhaust ports....

 

$50 gets you a cheapie small compressor... if you look around you can get some air tools for $25

they make plastic brush fittings that are made to take that stuff and other gasket meteral off without scratching the surface.... you may also be able to stick them in a regular drill, athough i never tried....

makes removing the gasket a 5min job for both sides.



your physics are wrong.

think of it this way... the "particle to particle contact" is the same as it always was ( i assume you mean how dense the metal is)


what changes is this...

ok look at this below and imagine its a side section of the untouched head sitting with the chamber up:


-------/\---____--/\_--/\_--/\_--/\-----


ok... now thoes little /\ 's on there are highspots..

what happens is theres little mass on that tip... and the heat it has to dissapate to the rest of the head... but that little tip cannot move the heat quick enough "down the mountan" into the rest of the metal..

so it gets hotter there then elsewhere...

also i could say the surface area of the rough area is larger, but thats almost pushing it.. lol...


anyhoo, when you polish it, you are taking off the highspots... making it looks somthing like this:

----------_----------------_------------------___----


you still have some lowspots you cant help (this is why it isnt really a mirror shine) but it helps get rid of thoes hot spots...





now would i do all that work for a daily driven street engine? no..

because it will get deposits on it anyway, even running perfect.

 

all a heatsink would do in a chamber is asorb more heat... mostly from the greater surface area...

replace the heatsink with a flat piece of metal... and it absorbs less heat... heat is energy.. id rather have the energy either pushing down on the pistion, or being pushed out the exhaust then having it heating up my coolent... because then i have to spend even more energy cooling my motor.

 

oh yea, before i forget to mention it again, and someone else does, if you did polish your combustion chamber, carbon deposits are less likey to form...


but i still believe its not worth it on a mostly street driven motor...

 

Whoops! I thought he was talking about polising the ports not the combustion chambers. My bad. Here is what I was thinking though for the ports.

Here is what I was thinking for the ports would b like polished-

----------------------------------------------------
O O O O
O O O
O O O O Air
O O O O
X X X X Friction
ooooooooo ooooooooooooooooo oooooo
ooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooooo Metal
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
------------------------------------------------------

Here is what I am talking about-

---------------------------------------------------
O O O O
O O O O
O O O O O
O O O O O
OOOOooOOOOOoOOOOoooOOOooOOOOOOOO
ooOoooooOOOoooOOooooooOoooooOOoOOOO
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
---------------------------------------------------------

The air molecules kinda roll over eachother. But I wal talkign about ports... if anyone cares.

 

ok so, ...ive begun the gasket matching and well, im seriously atonished at how much ive had to remove....i should slope it fron the outter edge/intake entry point, into the head right?? like

----> ) <-----


or should it be a straight line inward like

---> \ <---

if its a straight line ill prolly eat through the intake walls....

as of now its a slope...

2 hours, intake gasket matched on one head, hand tingling like crazy, ...2 hp 8 gallon compressor shutting off 50 times.

this is going to be a loooong job.

do i even need the flap wheels? it seems to be a decent glossy smooth surface from just using the carbid tips.

 

I think I see where you are going with this (BR)G-Machine.

What you are trying to say is that the rough surface will create turbulance and therefore reduce separation of the air fuel mixture in the runners right?

Or is what you are trying to say that the rough surface will create a buffer/lubrication setting to increase flow like water does on ice?

If it is the latter you should study The Colebrook-White formula which is a proven formula that reveals a rough surface within a pipe will reduce flow and increase resistance.

A simple visual experiment to try would be next time you are at the car wash spray the pressure washer at the smooth glass of your windshield and then do the same thing on the asphalt. You will see how the waters velocity is greater on the smooth surface longer but it sticks to it. Compared to how the water will be white and turbulant for the first few inches on the asphalt but then slow to a crawl soon thereafter.

So I think that the rough surface may help the reduce seperation but would not increase velocity.