Ok...here is the thing...i'd like to spend about $1500 on my IROCZ, but i'm not sure what to do. I'm considering either buying a used T-56 and 3.73 gears, or buying some 3.27 gears, a shift kit and vette servo, and then vortec heads, new cam, and tpi vortec intake. Which of these is going easier to do? Keep in mind that i do have access to a shop and friends in the business to help me install everything. I just wonder which I'd have more fun cruisin the local scene with!?! If anyone out there has either of these setups please tell me what you like. Obviously you can't have the TPI/Vortec setup yet, but something comporable at least. Thanks in advance.

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1989 IROCZ28, 5.7 liter TPI, 700R-4, 2.77 Rear, Gutted Air Boxes, Flowmaster 80 series muffler with dual 3 1/2" tips, Clarion 8575 Head, Infintiy Kappa 4x6 plates, Stock 6x9's, Alumapro 10" Aluminum Sub in sealed box, Orion 400 watt amp

 

IROC,

I'm in the "2.77" club as well. Converting to a manual can be done, but it's a lot of work to do it correctly, and you'll have to be prepared to shift for the rest of your life.

One option you didn't mention is a higher stall speed torque converter. You could toast your entire budget on a gear swap, or get around it to some extend with a converter. This can be a cheap-and-dirty way to get more out of the setup and partially overcome the "2.77" problems. While the trans is out, you can install the valve body and servo of your choice. The other side of the coin is that the 2.77 gives you much better economy at cruise once the converter hits lockup.

Your 350 already has at least a respectable cam profile. You already have a decent exhaust flow. You might want to consider completing the package by opening up the restrictions in the intake plenum. This can help a 305, but make a significant difference on a 350. Since the air box restriction is already addressed, that would be a logical step. And you can do it for about $30.00 in gaskets and another $15.00 in grinding burrs. A cam change may help, but would be most beneficial if this restriction is removed. Just porting the plenum alone should make a notable difference.

If your engine has any mileage, it might be a good time to send the injectors out for cleaning and flow-mathcing. The plenum would already be off for a couple of days, and the injectors are just lying around. ($80.00) It might also be a good time to convert to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. ($2.00 in material if you have access to a oxy-accetylene torch and some brazing rods.)

With the additional flow, ability to tweak the fuel presure to your setup, and better launches from the converter and tight transmission, you should smile a little bit more as you drive. And you'll have a few bucks left over to save for the tires you're about to burn off...

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Thanks for the advice Vader. I'm not really sure what a TC is really gonna do for me. Probably cause i don't understand what it does. Also if I buy a new one, what speed converter shall I buy?


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1989 IROCZ28, 5.7 liter TPI, 700R-4, 2.77 Rear, Gutted Air Boxes, Flowmaster 80 series muffler with dual 3 1/2" tips, Clarion 8575 Head, Infintiy Kappa 4x6 plates, Stock 6x9's, Alumapro 10" Aluminum Sub in sealed box, Orion 400 watt amp

[This message has been edited by IROC350TPI (edited October 01, 2000).]

 

Anyone? BTT...


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1989 IROCZ28, 5.7 liter TPI, 700R-4, 2.77 Rear, Gutted Air Boxes, Flowmaster 80 series muffler with dual 3 1/2" tips, Clarion 8575 Head, Infintiy Kappa 4x6 plates, Stock 6x9's, Alumapro 10" Aluminum Sub in sealed box, Orion 400 watt amp

 

well, probably the highest stall rating you can go is a 2400... with out sacrificeing too much. Basically, stall speed is the point at which the convertor will achieve its higehst rpm/torque multiplication. basically, a torque convertor is a multi bladded propellor spinging in fluid, with a clutch that when ativated, locks the engine side of the convertor to the tranny side of the convertor. the motor propells these blades in the convertor. some good TC's can have a multiplication effect of 2.5 times... like a vigalante. BUT if you get something like a 300 dollar converter per say, you might expect something inbetween stock, and the better ones. closer to 2. anyhow, convertor basically allows the motor to get up into its peak hp and torque ranges by allowing the engine to spin faster at a lower actual speed. thus, you get into ur peak ranges, and have more power right off the bat, instead of having to pull through this in 1st gear. it doesnt make much sence at first, but i am sure you can find some good reading on this kinda thing.

guys feel free to correct me if neccesary, TC's arent my forte so to speak!

Steve

 

So basically what this is going to do is allow me to tromp on it off the line and it'll allow the engine rpm's to get up into the 3000 range before they should. Basically like driving a car with a clutch? Like not fully engaging the clutch so the car rev's higher sooner right? If that is the case wouldn't that make me a little slower off the line? And what will that do to passing? If it kicks down to 3rd on the freeway will the converter be slippin real bad and I won't have any power? I'm just not understanding all of it I guess.

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1989 IROCZ28, 5.7 liter TPI, 700R-4, 2.77 Rear, Gutted Air Boxes, Flowmaster 80 series muffler with dual 3 1/2" tips, Clarion 8575 Head, Infintiy Kappa 4x6 plates, Stock 6x9's, Alumapro 10" Aluminum Sub in sealed box, Orion 400 watt amp

 

Mmm, nah, sounds about right steve. I have a 2000 stall and i love it. Not too high, but it'll snap your neck if you play with the gas pedal (floor it). I along with vader believe you benefit from a stall converter. As steve said, nothing over 2400. Hopefully i helped you a little in your decision.

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89 IROC-Z 350 TPI

-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-Rebuilt 700R4 Tranny
With the goodies to go

-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)

 

Go with the 6 speed in my opinion.

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TPI 305,
Gutted airboxes,
gutted MAF,
K&N filters,
Corvette Servo.
14.9@93mph

"Speed kills, wanna live forever, drive a Ford."

 

Ok...so if I buy and install a say 2000rpm stall converter is it going to hurt my tranny at all? A buddy of mine said that buy making the engine rev higher before the tranny recieves all the power it will hurt the tranny. He seems to think that it will make the tranny lurch...like when the TC locks up that's the only time the car will move. Is this true? Or will this work like driving a manual...say if you were at a dead stop and just partially let the clutch out to bring the revs up to spin the tires easier? Is that the way it will be or will the car not even move before the car gets to 2000 rpm? Also while i have the tranny out i'm going to try to install a shift kit, will the shift kit hurt anything? I've read that it should actually lengthen the life of the tranny...is this true? Sorry about all the Q's.

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1989 IROCZ28, 5.7 liter TPI, 700R-4, 2.77 Rear, Gutted Air Boxes, Flowmaster 80 series muffler with dual 3 1/2" tips, Clarion 8575 Head, Infintiy Kappa 4x6 plates, Stock 6x9's, Alumapro 10" Aluminum Sub in sealed box, Orion 400 watt amp

 

The higher stall convertor actually smooths out the transition as you get on it - you could almost say makes it mushier. It creates more heat, which is why the manufacturers of high stall convertors always say to add a tranny cooler, but other than that won't hurt your tranny.

The shift kit is a 2-edged sword: It reduces the sliding of the clutch plates by increasing the pressure on them, so the plates tend to last longer; however, the harder shifts will shock the internals and the rest of your drivetrain more.

The shift kit in my TH400 blew out the lipseal on the 3rd gear pack (as best can be determined - hasn't been disassembled yet). 3rd still engages, but slips. The tranny is 35 years old, so we'll give it a break (so to speak).

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, ported heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

Ok...so I'll go out a pick up a 2000 Stall Converter...but where and what brand? So i just go through summit or SDPC? Also what brand of shift kit should i buy? Thanks again for all the help guys.

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1989 IROCZ28, 5.7 liter TPI, 700R-4, 2.77 Rear, Gutted Air Boxes, Flowmaster 80 series muffler with dual 3 1/2" tips, Clarion 8575 Head, Infintiy Kappa 4x6 plates, Stock 6x9's, Alumapro 10" Aluminum Sub in sealed box, Orion 400 watt amp

 

Anyone?

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1989 IROCZ28, 5.7 liter TPI, 700R-4, 2.77 Rear, Gutted Air Boxes, Flowmaster 80 series muffler with dual 3 1/2" tips, Clarion 8575 Head, Infintiy Kappa 4x6 plates, Stock 6x9's, Alumapro 10" Aluminum Sub in sealed box, Orion 400 watt amp