Q concerning cutting the coil springs....
#1
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Q concerning cutting the coil springs....
I wish to lower my '84 Z28 and was wondering how much to cut the springs to achieve about 1.5-2 inches lower in the rear and about .75-1 inch lower in the front?
Is this too much?
Is it going to affect the front end geometry too much?
Will I still be able to align the front properly?
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"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!
Is this too much?
Is it going to affect the front end geometry too much?
Will I still be able to align the front properly?
------------------
"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!
#2
84,
Cutting the rear springs should cause no serious problems other than LCA and panhard rod/brace angles, and of course clearance. The panhard rod can be adjusted to some extent, and the LCAs can be replaced with adjustable types or converted to adjustables.
Cutting the front springs is a different matter. At the very least you'll have to do a full front end alignment, not just check the toe. The camber will definitely be off, and the caster will probably be off. Turning clearance will be reduced slightly. Overall suspension travel will not be reduced, but negative travel will be reduced by the amount you cut the springs. Since the spring rates will remain essentially unchanged, you'll be more likely to bottom out more often.
Another consideration is the point at which the springs are cut. The lower arms and strut mounts are keyed to locate the ends of the springs in a specific area. If the ends of the springs don't end up in the same relative positions as the original ends, the springs will tend to rotate in their mounts. This is true of both front and rear coils.
The correct method for lowering a vehicle without a true frame is to install lowering spindles. Original suspension and steering angles will remain the same, but the wheel position will rise in relation to the car.
If you don't want to spend the time and cash on lowering spindles, at least purchase lowering springs. There is at least a little engineering time evident on these springs, since the rates are increased to offset the reduced travel, and the mountings are in the correct locations.
The other main benefit of purchasing replacement springs is that the original springs remain intact in the event you want to switch back. This is more important on WS6 cars with a better calibrated suspension, but will be worth the extra cash on either car. If you do change back, it's a lot easier to sell a set of lowering springs than a cut set of factory springs. Gotta plan ahead...
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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
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Cutting the rear springs should cause no serious problems other than LCA and panhard rod/brace angles, and of course clearance. The panhard rod can be adjusted to some extent, and the LCAs can be replaced with adjustable types or converted to adjustables.
Cutting the front springs is a different matter. At the very least you'll have to do a full front end alignment, not just check the toe. The camber will definitely be off, and the caster will probably be off. Turning clearance will be reduced slightly. Overall suspension travel will not be reduced, but negative travel will be reduced by the amount you cut the springs. Since the spring rates will remain essentially unchanged, you'll be more likely to bottom out more often.
Another consideration is the point at which the springs are cut. The lower arms and strut mounts are keyed to locate the ends of the springs in a specific area. If the ends of the springs don't end up in the same relative positions as the original ends, the springs will tend to rotate in their mounts. This is true of both front and rear coils.
The correct method for lowering a vehicle without a true frame is to install lowering spindles. Original suspension and steering angles will remain the same, but the wheel position will rise in relation to the car.
If you don't want to spend the time and cash on lowering spindles, at least purchase lowering springs. There is at least a little engineering time evident on these springs, since the rates are increased to offset the reduced travel, and the mountings are in the correct locations.
The other main benefit of purchasing replacement springs is that the original springs remain intact in the event you want to switch back. This is more important on WS6 cars with a better calibrated suspension, but will be worth the extra cash on either car. If you do change back, it's a lot easier to sell a set of lowering springs than a cut set of factory springs. Gotta plan ahead...
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
#3
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I have extra springs so I do not mind doing a little experimenting. How much should I cut the springs to achieve the desired drop mentioned in the original post?
Also, Who sells lowering spindles?
Also, Who sells lowering spindles?
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You don't need spindles, or anything else other than a realignmet at any shop. I cut a half coil and found it about perfect....just don't go overboard, and make sure you don't get the spring get hot.
#6
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Car: 1984 Z28 Camaro
Engine: H.O. 355 NOS
Transmission: 700R4
Vader i think that if you cut coils off of a coil springs it will increase the spring rate. When i was a crew chief for a dirt car we did this all the time. We had a coil spring (HIC) compressor and it made a differance. If he loweres his car by cutting the coil springs he better be ready for a rough ride.
-Auggie-
[This message has been edited by Auggie (edited October 04, 2000).]
-Auggie-
[This message has been edited by Auggie (edited October 04, 2000).]
#7
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It does increase the spring rate... been on that go round once myself before. Dont ask me to explain it, I didnt think it did LOL
Start at 3/4 coil in the front. Take it off the bottom end because it doesnt have the flattened end that the top does IIRC. In the back its so easy to cut in small changes until you have it where you want it, start at 3/4 there too and go from there. Keep this important tip in mind when you do it:
You CANT put it back once its cut. You can ALWAYS cut more off later.
Start at 3/4 coil in the front. Take it off the bottom end because it doesnt have the flattened end that the top does IIRC. In the back its so easy to cut in small changes until you have it where you want it, start at 3/4 there too and go from there. Keep this important tip in mind when you do it:
You CANT put it back once its cut. You can ALWAYS cut more off later.
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#8
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I just did this last weekend with my brothers' *gasp* Mustang. Took a half a coil off to drop it about an inch. The amazing thing was we used a cutoff wheel (for a circular saw) for tile to cut it. Couldn't believe it. But heed the aformentioned advice - once it's cut, it's cut.
Steve
Steve
#9
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Thanks for the in-put guys. Have cut-off tools/will be a cut'n.
I plan on doing the lowering when I install my new/used disc equipped, posi, 3:42 rear end that I scored for 3 Fanklins a coupla weeks ago. The donor car was a '92 Z28 courtesy of Little Johns Wrecking Yard.
BTW, That '89GTA that I was looking at for $2500 turned out to be very tired, had to pass on it. Guess that will just leave more cash for the Z........................
------------------
"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!
I plan on doing the lowering when I install my new/used disc equipped, posi, 3:42 rear end that I scored for 3 Fanklins a coupla weeks ago. The donor car was a '92 Z28 courtesy of Little Johns Wrecking Yard.
BTW, That '89GTA that I was looking at for $2500 turned out to be very tired, had to pass on it. Guess that will just leave more cash for the Z........................
------------------
"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!
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