Blade

Hey guys I got a quick questin. How would I go about installing the rear seal on a block that's already on the stand ? I tried to put it on buy it twistes itself and it doesn't go on there right. So I took it out of the housing and just put the housing on the block. Should I try to drive in the seal after I take the block off the stand ?

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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires...

"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)

Brian Shaughnessy

If you have the rear seal 'block' off the engine block then put the seal in it first.
I like to put 4 1" spacers inbetween the engine stand and the engine block so I have extra room to install the seal block. I used 4" 3/8's bolts with some spacers on the engine stand.
Otherwise loosen up some of the stand bolts and jack the engine up by your chain or hoist or whatever you're using to install the motor with to get some extra clearance between the block and stand to get it in there.
I don't know if your tranny is still in the car or if you're putting them in together. With my manual trans, I hung the motor off my hoist deal to install the flywheel and clutch and let the engine down near the floor to put the tranny on.

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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.

Blade

Thanx for the insight Brian. How would I keep the sealing from folding up and turning itself inside-out ? LOL That's the problem I'm having when I try to put it on with the engine on the stand... The tranny's still in the car thank God! LOL

Brian Shaughnessy

I only did it on the car when I did the clutch last year. Putting large seals on sucks... that's why it's better to put the seal in the seal block. If you can't find a big enuf seal installer then make one... It has to get enuf of the seal started all the way around for it to stay put. After it's started you can tap around the edges to get it fully seated. Obviously a large seal installer like that is a specialty tool and probably expensive... that's why I have invented tools from stuff like old exhaust pipes, coffee cans, 2x4's, etc.
With the seal block out you can use some wood or something and sandwich it in a benchvise.

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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.

Engineboy

I take a little grease and put it on the lip of the seal, push the seal (by hand) onto the crank by starting it so one side of the lip is on the crank, roll the rest onto the crank .

This should put the whole seal surface STARTED on the crank. Now tap it lightly into place.

Make sure you don't put any sealer or RTV on the outside of the seal.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

Blade

Cool! Now that's an explantion I can understand! Thanx man