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Cylinder Head Install Advice

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Old 06-23-2003, 10:47 AM
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Max
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Cylinder Head Install Advice

I'm about to bolt on a new set on heads. I have a few questions.

I will be using Fel-Pro composite gaskets and the instructions say not to use any sealer (such as the copper spray). Should I use the copper spray or not. The heads have been resurfaced and are nice and smooth but I just scraped to old gasket of the block. It is still pretty clean though.

Also, Is it alright to reuse the head bolts? If so I'll probably just clean up the threads with a wire brush.

Finally, I understand I need to use sealant on the bolts. Is a permatex ultra black silicone appropriate for this. I have some on hand to seal the intake anyway. Should I put it on all the bolts or just those that go into the coolant. I also read that I should put some oil under the head of each bolt. Is this essential?

Will I need to re-torque the head bolts like I do with my header bolts?

Anyone have any other tips, tricks or advice to help insure the best results?

Any comments will be appreciated.
Old 06-23-2003, 11:13 AM
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ede
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i use k&w copper spray on sealer. don't use rtv on the head bolts, you'll have a leak. use non hardening sealer, most everyone uses liquid teflon thread sealer.
Old 06-23-2003, 11:30 AM
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Do not reuse your bolts. Factory bolts are torque to yield and not made for reuse. If you reuse them there is a good chance your head gaskets will fail. New gm bolts come with sealer on them. Arp bolts need thread sealer. I have been told you can reuse ARP Head bolts one time only.
Old 06-23-2003, 11:36 AM
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Max
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The sealer you mention. Is that what you might call plumber pipe dope. I have used that before. Is that what you reccomend? Any other comments? Especially on whether I can re-use the head bolts. Has anyone reused the original head bolts with or without a problem? Thanks for the input.
Old 06-23-2003, 11:37 AM
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the instructions say not to use any sealer such as the copper spray
Pretty much sums it up.

DO NOT use silicone on the bolts, it will fail and leak water into the crankcase. Use some sort of non-hardening sealer such as Loctite PST or Permatex 300 on the threads and under the head. DO NOT use oil or grease anywhere on them. The PST is an excellent lube and will help provide smooth torquing of the bolts. It is a far superior product to regular pipe dope; I won't even use that stuff on pipes, it's so prone to leaks. Get teh brand-name product.

Factory head bolts are not torque-to-yield in these motors like they are in some others. They can be re-used, in fact they usually are in typical production-line rebuilds, but if this is anything resembling a performance motor, it's a much better idea to get new ones.
Old 06-23-2003, 11:48 AM
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ede
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easy way to tell TTY bolts is the torque spec. it'll be something like 45 ft/lbs and 90*. typical SBC bolts are not TTY.
Old 06-23-2003, 11:51 AM
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Max
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Thanks a lot for the help guys.

I called my local Chevy Dealer and found the part number for a GM head bolt kit (PN 12495499). It contains all of the new bolts and it sould like the sealer is already applied to the bolts. At a cost of only $26.07 I think this is is the route to go. These bolts can also be used for either iron or alum. heads.

I think I'll pass on the copper spray unless anyone else highly reccomends that I use it.
Old 06-23-2003, 11:28 PM
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I never use any copper spray or any thing else on head gaskets.
Never. not even with shim gaskets. If the block and heads are
clean and straight, it will seal.

You can use the head bolts over again, I use black automotive
RTV sealer on the bolts and have never had a problem. I use a little on the threads and a little under the bolt head flange.

If you want to retorque your head bolts after a few heat/cool cycles, be my guest. But its usually not nessessary.

Head gasket problems are and indication of overheating (cooling system) improper ignition advance, or wrong airfuel ratio,
usually resulting in detonation and or preignition.
Start with straight parts and keep these above issues in check and you won't have problems with head gaskets.
Old 06-24-2003, 01:59 AM
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Personally, I have never used copper spray or anything else on any head, while using composite gaskets. Like stated by F-bird 88, as long as the surfaces are clean and flat, you shouldn't have any problems. After scraping the bolt and/or heads with a razor, I might do additional clean up with a scotchbrite pad. Then wipe the matting surfaces down with a lint free cloth and brake cleaner.

I reuse the head bolts for mild street motors. Usually just degrease and wire wheel them. Then I use something like Permatex #2 or Indian Head on the head bolt threads. I also divide the final torque spec by 3, torque each bolt by the numbers I arrive at, increasing each set, until I reach the final torque number. Something like 20, 40 and 65 ft.lbs. per sequence, for a SBC. I only retorque with aluminum heads, after cycling the thermostat, to open and close 3 times. I've never had any blown head gaskets in any motors I've built. Good luck.

John
Old 06-24-2003, 09:58 AM
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Well, they've done it to us again. Good luck finding the Permatex PST (except in overpriced consumer packages). Loctite has apparently completed the transition from the "Permatex" brands to the "LocTite" brand after Henkel acquired the company. This is what you'll find now:

Old 03-04-2004, 06:14 PM
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Car: 1987 Camaro IROC Z-28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Where do you buy the pipe sealant? Can i get it at a local automotive store like Autozone/Advance/Napa? or do I need to goto a home improvement store and look at the piping stuff?

Thanks
Old 03-04-2004, 06:39 PM
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Car: '89 GTA
Engine: a bunch of pieces
Transmission: still there - very stockish TH700
I understand that Loctite #565 is ok for head, water/fuel pump, lower acc. bracket, intake bolts, rocker studs, sensors and all similar "sealed thread" applications?
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