Switch to Synthetic
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Car: 1991 trans am
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Switch to Synthetic
Hey everyone.
Question, how long of a break in time (milage) is needed before you can switch to a synthetic motor oil?
And do you just drain, refill and go..... or is some type of flushing needed?
Thanks for any feedback,
Jim
Question, how long of a break in time (milage) is needed before you can switch to a synthetic motor oil?
And do you just drain, refill and go..... or is some type of flushing needed?
Thanks for any feedback,
Jim
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
On a fresh rebuild, I changed my oil right after a few hours of run time, then at 500 miles, and at around 3000 miles I switched to Castrol Synthetic.
That's maybe a little ****, because really, the rings should seat in the first hour or so if you follow the directions that come with your piston rings. It basically tells you to gun it and let off quickly several times at certain RPM's in order to seat the rings.
Cam break-in occurs in the first 1/2 hour or so.
Try a search, may help....
BTW, no flushing needed. Unless you're using some exotic oil.
That's maybe a little ****, because really, the rings should seat in the first hour or so if you follow the directions that come with your piston rings. It basically tells you to gun it and let off quickly several times at certain RPM's in order to seat the rings.
Cam break-in occurs in the first 1/2 hour or so.
Try a search, may help....
BTW, no flushing needed. Unless you're using some exotic oil.
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Just to add one more thing....I'd personally put at least a couple thousand miles on it before I'd make the switch...
Just to be sure everything is seated and you have no leaks. Synthetic costs a few bucks more.
Just to be sure everything is seated and you have no leaks. Synthetic costs a few bucks more.
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Car: '86 Z28
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4 w/kit
If your engine hasn't had full synthetic oil in it before, and has over 100,000 miles on it, DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC. Use a part synthetic motor oil, I prefer "Castrol Syntec Blend". =)
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Car: '86 Z28
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Re: Switch to Synthetic
Originally posted by JADIII35
how long of a break in time (milage) is needed before you can switch to a synthetic motor oil?
how long of a break in time (milage) is needed before you can switch to a synthetic motor oil?
#6
Originally posted by ChevyCamaro420
If your engine hasn't had full synthetic oil in it before, and has over 100,000 miles on it, DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC. Use a part synthetic motor oil, I prefer "Castrol Syntec Blend". =)
If your engine hasn't had full synthetic oil in it before, and has over 100,000 miles on it, DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC. Use a part synthetic motor oil, I prefer "Castrol Syntec Blend". =)
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Car: '86 Z28
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4 w/kit
If you haven't had a full synthetic motor oil in your engine for the first 100k miles or so, then the piston rings/other such parts have already gotten all the wear that they're gonna get. Switching to a more "slippery" motor oil will cause minor oil leaks, because it can more easily slip through the worn spaces on the rings, ect. Hope that helps.
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 5.7L/L98
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by ChevyCamaro420
If you haven't had a full synthetic motor oil in your engine for the first 100k miles or so, then the piston rings/other such parts have already gotten all the wear that they're gonna get. Switching to a more "slippery" motor oil will cause minor oil leaks, because it can more easily slip through the worn spaces on the rings, ect. Hope that helps.
If you haven't had a full synthetic motor oil in your engine for the first 100k miles or so, then the piston rings/other such parts have already gotten all the wear that they're gonna get. Switching to a more "slippery" motor oil will cause minor oil leaks, because it can more easily slip through the worn spaces on the rings, ect. Hope that helps.
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Car: '86 Z28
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4 w/kit
well, it won't damage anything, it's just not beneficial at all. I was gonna switch to full synthetic but was told by the guys at Baxter's, Schuck's, and an AEM certified mechanic, who is a friend of mine to not switch to full synthetic. Since my engine has 180k miles , I decided not to. The choice is still yours though, and the guys I talked to could just be full of ****... but I doubt it.
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by ChevyCamaro420
If your engine hasn't had full synthetic oil in it before, and has over 100,000 miles on it, DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC. Use a part synthetic motor oil, I prefer "Castrol Syntec Blend". =)
If your engine hasn't had full synthetic oil in it before, and has over 100,000 miles on it, DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC. Use a part synthetic motor oil, I prefer "Castrol Syntec Blend". =)
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Car: '86 T/A
Engine: 350/LT1 Intake
Transmission: 700R4 - Built
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.42
the seals are a little more worn at that point and switching to synthetic oils will cause leakage.
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by five7kid
You can prevent more wear...
You can prevent more wear...
For me, they'll have to pry my Amsoil bottle out of my hands to get me to stop using it. That 15W-40 really holds up to a beating, and 10W-30 is great in cooler weather street driving.
And no, I don't sell Amsoil...I just beat the snot out of my car and check the magnetic drain plug and filter media.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Sonar_un
the seals are a little more worn at that point and switching to synthetic oils will cause leakage.
the seals are a little more worn at that point and switching to synthetic oils will cause leakage.
Within about 1k of switching over, I replaced the intake valve seals - reduced consumption dramatically. When I pulled the heads off for the mods, no significant ridge on the cylinders.
Back to the original question - you can switch a rebuilt engine over to synthetic as soon as the rings seat. A properly rebuilt engine will seat the rings easily within a hundred miles.
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