Help! Intake manifold bolt stripped out head and more!
#1
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Help! Intake manifold bolt stripped out head and more!
I was installing my ZZ4 intake today. I was using ARP SB Chevy intake bolts and using GM teflon sealant on the threads. My manual calls for 35ft/lbs torque. My Craftsman torque wrench didnt click once before I noticed that the bolt wasn't tightening. The bolt threaded into the head fine by hand, so I doubt it was crossthreaded. Not only are the threads stripped, but the metal is pulled up and cracked. What can be done besides bying another head?
Last edited by Justins86bird; 05-30-2003 at 03:27 AM.
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It happens to lots of people, all the time. It's really not a big deal at all.
The fix is extremely easy and cheap and permanent; people who know what they're doing consider it an upgrade to heads to do it to all the holes.
Heli-Coil it. You can get a Heli-coil kit at most parts stores, NAPA I know for sure. You need the kit for 3/8"-16 threads, and the exact size drill bit it calls for (25/64" IIRC), and about 5 minutes, and you're better than new.
The fix is extremely easy and cheap and permanent; people who know what they're doing consider it an upgrade to heads to do it to all the holes.
Heli-Coil it. You can get a Heli-coil kit at most parts stores, NAPA I know for sure. You need the kit for 3/8"-16 threads, and the exact size drill bit it calls for (25/64" IIRC), and about 5 minutes, and you're better than new.
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
RB83L69 - Thanks for the info. What do I do about some of the metal that has pulled up. Its no longer level and I fear that the gasket may not seal well with it raised like that. Should i try to file it flush? On close inspection, my ARP bolts look to be 1/4" shorter then my stock ones. I wonder if that was part of the problem because the bolt wasn't far enough into the threads for it to hold the torque.
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
That's exactly what happened, the screw was too short to hold the torque, looks like it was only engaged about 3 threads, if you get a longer screw there may be enough threads left to work fine. the metal that's pulled out can be hammered back in some and then filed flat.
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Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Engine: 305 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: The famous 700R4
Axle/Gears: No idea
You can get more information here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=143178
I used RECOIL system for my block.
Regards,
Denis V
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=143178
I used RECOIL system for my block.
Regards,
Denis V
#7
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So,,, hammer it back down, drill and helicoil it and use longer bolts. use stainless washers under the bolts. Don't torque it down either just tighten them up.
The intake manifold does not need much bolt torque to get a good seal. just use a wrench and tighten alittle more than snug.
retighten after the motor is run and cooled.
35 lbs is too much.
The intake manifold does not need much bolt torque to get a good seal. just use a wrench and tighten alittle more than snug.
retighten after the motor is run and cooled.
35 lbs is too much.
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#8
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
OK, thanks guys. My 86 Helms manual said 25-45 lbs, my 92 manual said 35. Wonder why they want it so tight. I measured my ARP bolts and they are 5/16" shorter then stock. Grrr, I got the ARPs just so there wouldn't be any problems! Guess its Hammer Time!
Last edited by Justins86bird; 05-30-2003 at 03:28 AM.
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