305 Problems
#1
305 Problems
Ok so I've been having lots of problems with my 305 over the last few months. When I first got my car it ran fairly well, but after a month or two the car would lose rpms really fast and stall, if I hit the gas from a stop. Next I was driving down the highway when my car suddenly overheated and had to be towed (there was also a tiny bit of steam/smoke that came out from the engine when this happened). Now there is a really loud clicking noise coming from the engine, towards the rear near where the carb is, and the car overheats in a matter of minutes now.
Yesterday I took off the valve covers expecting to find a collapsed rocker or something, but everything under there was intact (except for the gasket, if you could call it a gasket).
What could you guys suggest on checking? The thermostat was just replaced, the fan is engine driven and works, so those aren't the causes of the overheating (at least I don't think). Any help would be really appreciated!
Thanks a lot!
Yesterday I took off the valve covers expecting to find a collapsed rocker or something, but everything under there was intact (except for the gasket, if you could call it a gasket).
What could you guys suggest on checking? The thermostat was just replaced, the fan is engine driven and works, so those aren't the causes of the overheating (at least I don't think). Any help would be really appreciated!
Thanks a lot!
#3
It's not leaking any fluids, but that's as much as I know... I did a rad fluid test a couple months ago and it was fine, maybe I should do one tomorrow though.
What other information would be useful?
What other information would be useful?
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#14
For overheating replace the radiator cap and see if it helps.
The ticking noise could be an exhaust leak or collapsed lifter. Pulling the valve cover and looking around won't tell you if the lifter is collapsed, it may also just be plugged up with crud. You could try putting a quart of 5 minute motor flush (or keorsene) in the oil and run it for 5-10 minutes (DO NOT DRIVE IT), then change the oil and filter. That should break down and flush out any sludge that may have been trapped in the lifters.
The ticking noise could be an exhaust leak or collapsed lifter. Pulling the valve cover and looking around won't tell you if the lifter is collapsed, it may also just be plugged up with crud. You could try putting a quart of 5 minute motor flush (or keorsene) in the oil and run it for 5-10 minutes (DO NOT DRIVE IT), then change the oil and filter. That should break down and flush out any sludge that may have been trapped in the lifters.
#16
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,238
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Maybe an exhaust leak at the manifolds or at the donuts. Or it could be a cracked flex plate.
#17
First things first...
Was the clicking there BEFORE the car overheated?
Next...
As for the overheating....you need to go through the cooling system, but there are a few things to check first.
Check the initial timing to make sure it's at spec.
Go ahead and do a flush / fill on the cooling system, it's cheap, and worth the piece of mind. Replace the thermostat and radiator cap as well. Make sure the radiator hoses are in good shape and not brittle or cracked.
Look inside the radiator when doing the above, if you see alot of "slime" inside the radiator, you might want to go ahead and take the time to yank it and have it "rodded out" at a radiator shop ( like $30-40 ) or spring for a new alum replacement ( like $110 ) if the fins and general condition is not that good.
Clean out ALL the gunk, dirt and leaves in front of the radiator.
Now, drive the car.
If it still overheats....HOW / WHEN does it overheat?
Does it overheat when idling / or in slow traffic? Does it run any cooler on the highway at a sustained speed? Does it overheat ONLY on the highway?
If overheating on the highway only, check and make sure you have the plastic air deflector underneath your front end. This forces air into the radiator area for cooling.
If it overheats at idle, it might be time for a water pump. A new one is not expensive, and is sometimes worth the work, especially when you don't know the maintenance history of the car.
The "clicking" could be any number of things. Does it click when you're NOT moving and just revving the engine?
It could be a stuck lifter, as this can happen on and off. Go to NAPA, buy a can of Seafoam and follow the instructions. You'll be surprised at the amount of gunk that will come out of your engine.
Let us know your progress.
HTH
Was the clicking there BEFORE the car overheated?
Next...
As for the overheating....you need to go through the cooling system, but there are a few things to check first.
Check the initial timing to make sure it's at spec.
Go ahead and do a flush / fill on the cooling system, it's cheap, and worth the piece of mind. Replace the thermostat and radiator cap as well. Make sure the radiator hoses are in good shape and not brittle or cracked.
Look inside the radiator when doing the above, if you see alot of "slime" inside the radiator, you might want to go ahead and take the time to yank it and have it "rodded out" at a radiator shop ( like $30-40 ) or spring for a new alum replacement ( like $110 ) if the fins and general condition is not that good.
Clean out ALL the gunk, dirt and leaves in front of the radiator.
Now, drive the car.
If it still overheats....HOW / WHEN does it overheat?
Does it overheat when idling / or in slow traffic? Does it run any cooler on the highway at a sustained speed? Does it overheat ONLY on the highway?
If overheating on the highway only, check and make sure you have the plastic air deflector underneath your front end. This forces air into the radiator area for cooling.
If it overheats at idle, it might be time for a water pump. A new one is not expensive, and is sometimes worth the work, especially when you don't know the maintenance history of the car.
The "clicking" could be any number of things. Does it click when you're NOT moving and just revving the engine?
It could be a stuck lifter, as this can happen on and off. Go to NAPA, buy a can of Seafoam and follow the instructions. You'll be surprised at the amount of gunk that will come out of your engine.
Let us know your progress.
HTH
#18
305 problems?
That's a lot of problems.
Follow the above advice. The lower air deflector problem may not be as prevalent on your '83, since I believe the '83 TA did have some small air openings at the lower edge of the nose. It's still a good item to have.
As for the engine flush, there are many commercially available solutions, but ATF seems to clean in a more controlled manner. Regardless of which method you use, if you flush, plan on frequent oil and filter changes for the next everal months. You don't want large chunks of liberated sludge clogging the oil passages, pickup screen, or pump relief valve.
SeaFoam works, but is a pretty expensive way to buy paint thinner, alcohol, and oil mixture.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=174734
That's a lot of problems.
Follow the above advice. The lower air deflector problem may not be as prevalent on your '83, since I believe the '83 TA did have some small air openings at the lower edge of the nose. It's still a good item to have.
As for the engine flush, there are many commercially available solutions, but ATF seems to clean in a more controlled manner. Regardless of which method you use, if you flush, plan on frequent oil and filter changes for the next everal months. You don't want large chunks of liberated sludge clogging the oil passages, pickup screen, or pump relief valve.
SeaFoam works, but is a pretty expensive way to buy paint thinner, alcohol, and oil mixture.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=174734
Last edited by Vader; 05-12-2003 at 12:17 PM.
#19
The clicking started immediately after the first overheat on the highway, and I replaced the thermostat at that time. I'll try checking the timing and cooling system today. Will update you guys later tonight. Thanks!
Last edited by cailen; 05-12-2003 at 05:13 PM.
#20
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 17
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Not meaning to insult - but what's the oil like - did you check it? Every car I've ever owned at one time or another has gotten low on oil for any number of reasons - and I always can hear a clicking or ticking noise when the oil gets low/needs changed.
#21
Junior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Mass.
Car: Whatever I can get to start.
Engine: broke 305 H.O. (now a N.O.)
If you can accelerate slowly (not stomping on the gas) fine, then I had the same problem in my 307 Olds. It has a 750 cfm Rochester carb. The problem was a broken secondary spring in the carb. It put too much gas in at once when the second two barrels opened up. Without enough air to gas mixture, it tripped over itself and stalled. It is a commonly overlooked problem. Check it out.
#22
The oil is definitely not low.. my car had been running fairly hot until this incident so I kept it topped right up. As for the condition of the oil, it looked fine (again before the incident), but I suppose that's something I should look into as well.
As for the radiator, I can't even get the cap off, I'll try again tomorrow because it was getting dark.
As for the radiator, I can't even get the cap off, I'll try again tomorrow because it was getting dark.
#23
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: kansas
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
If it got real hot then it could be a exhaust manifold leak.
You can't inspect a lifter by pulling the valve covers off. You have to take the intake off to be able to see them. You might be thinking of the rocker arms.
You can't inspect a lifter by pulling the valve covers off. You have to take the intake off to be able to see them. You might be thinking of the rocker arms.
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