Stupid piece of aluminum crap! Ok here goes, about two weeks ago my mechanic installed the shifter into my car according to directions, and despite the thing requiring a bicep workout to shift out of park, everything worked great. Then on Sunday, I goto put it into park, and the T-handle comes loose, and won't tighten down again, I take it off and it looks like both the handle and the shaft threads are partially stripped! It was lubricated and everything. Now I bought it through Summit, should I complain to them or B&M? Has anyone else had this problem? It seems pretty crappy to use aluminum for both parts of the shifter. Can I use teflon tape as a temporary fix or would that cause more problems. Sorry for the length guys any ideas and help is greatly appreciated.

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86 Camaro
LG4, Tuned Q-Jet
Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Open Element,High Flow Cat,Dynomax Catback,B&M Megashifter, 160* TSAT, 3.42s, 800 Watt System

 

Had the same problem. Use a piece of aluminum foil instead of teflon tape. Mine has not moved since. BTW, if the shifter is a bear to get out of park and seems to have some resistance in movement, (and it is installed and adjusted correctly) drop the tranny pan and remove the detent spring and take some tension out of it. This will give you smoother operation and add years to the cable, which will pick the worse time to break! I know from experience. Good luck!

 

I've only had similar problems with other shifters (sticking in gear).. The problem with both shifters was the cable either "Kinking" or at too sharp of an angle somewhere.

 

I think your first mistake was having your mechanic install the shifter.

He should've used anti-seize or LocTite, as per the B&M instructions. With my first T-handle, I used anti-seize. The threads were fine, but the shifter handle loosened all the time. Finally when I decided I needed a new "shiny" B&M handle, I used red loctite. The handle hasn't moved since.

Hm, just something I picked up- you said the T-handle wouldn't tighten down again. I assume you mean the jam nut wouldn't tighten "up" again, against the T-handle? Your mech didn't leave out the jam nut did he?

Call Summit Racing and see what they'll say.. I mean you've only had the thing two weeks. I think tho that you'll be paying for a new stick...

-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.v6fbody.com mailbags

 

thanks for the advice guys, glad to know I'm not alone in this problem. I will check out the cable. Tom: why is having my mechanic installing it a problem? I would think that B&M would be more willing to replace the part because it was professionally installed. I mean I could care less about any sort of ego thing about DYI, my mechanic knows his stuff. oh, and no the nut is installed, but the stripped t-handle won't tighten down against it anymore.

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86 Camaro
LG4, Tuned Q-Jet
Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Open Element,High Flow Cat,Dynomax Catback,B&M Megashifter, 160* TSAT, 3.42s, 800 Watt System

 

Well if your mechanic knows his stuff, that's different... (usually they don't)

If the handle won't tighten down against the nut, how 'bout tightening the nut up against the handle? Or is that what you meant?

-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.v6fbody.com mailbags

 

The handles are known for stripping.I drilled a Hole into the handle and the post and inserted a screw.

 

Mine did the same thing about 6 months after I put it on. I tried everything and it still would come loose. The threads got all messed up on both the handle and the shaft. I couldn't position the "T" handle where I wanted. I did EVERYTHING according to the instructions that came with it. I got sick of it moving and messing with it, so I decided to use some epoxy on the threads, and set the handle in the position I wanted. 6 months later and it hasn't moved a bit. I don't see a need to remove the handle. If I need to get it off for some reason later on, it will be hard, but it's possible.

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1984 Z28, non-computer 355
Edelbrock Performer carb and intake
214/224, .442/.465 lift cam
Hedman headers, and 3" Flowmaster exhaust
Powertrax Performance Locker with 3.23's, Lakewood LCA's
Nose, bumper and ground effects from an 89
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Best ET: 14.537 @ 93.67 MPH
http://members.fbody.com/s84z28

 

Those are all good suggestions. The handles are notorious for coming loose. Then people take a 12" adjustable wrench to them and tear out the threads. The threads are repairable, but it may be cheaper and easier to just buy the replacement parts. B&M last time I knew had every part of that shifter available separately, orderable directly from them. The shifters do need time to break in, all the ones I have seen took a little more force to get out of park. Once they were out of park it would move around without much difficulty. This isn't entirely their fault, it does take more force to leave park. If your threads aren't totally screwed I would just try a good epoxy or lock-tite, that will probably cure the problem for a good while.