I'm beginning researching how to rebuild my LB9 when it finally bites the dust. I want to keep my original block and not bore it over unless when I take it apart it has to be.

Anyway, I want to build a virtually bullet-proof 305. Basically I want to build a short block that will rev to 8K all day long, of course I'm not going to be doing this but I want to express the quality and durability that I want.

Who sells THE BEST rebuild kit on the market. Money is not an issue, I just want the best of the best. If there is no truely excellent 305 rebuild kit, then exactly what parts should I use?

I'm looking for manufactuars and type of parts (material wise) suggestions more than anything.

Thanks!

 

Finding good parts (pistons) for a 305 will be hard because its not a popular performance engine. Its not worth building one. It will be cheaper to find a 350 block and build that.

 

Thanks for your input and this comment is not directed just at you but everyone who might reply with an answer like yours, please don't take it personally. DO NOT REPLY IF ALL YOU ARE GOING TO SAY IS TO BUILD 350 BECAUSE IT IS CHEAPER OR BETTER OR WHATEVER, READ MY ORIGINAL POST!

I only thought I'd mention that because of all the other posts I read made by 305 owners with all these other people saying how stupid they are for wanting to do it.

Yeah I figureed it would be pretty hard that's why I thought I would ask here instead of wasting my time searching...

 

ditch the 305 and build a 350...youll be happier in the long run...do some research on the bore and stroke, rod length etc. and then ask how to build a bullit proof 350....... will rev higher and faster than a comparable 305....research research research!!

 

Well i will be the fist one to actually answer your question. One essential step to a bullet proof bottom end will be to strengthen the bottom end somehow. Your first option is ARP main bolts which are good. Your second option is ARP main studs which are better. youre final option would be to use milodon four bolt splayed steel main caps and this would be the strongest option. This is definately a bullet proof mod. Also look into if anyone makes one of those braces that bolts to all of your main caps and strengthens it further. Hope this helps you get started.

 

arnt you sick of jack a**es telling you exactly what you do not want to hear. they told me to ditch my 2.8L CAR and find one with a 350 already in it becasue the conversion is to hard. Well since the car was already in good shape i did it anyway. i wanst very hard. you wanna keep the 305 find some forged pistons, but on rings made to take nos, find a steel forged crank, have the machine work done by someone with reputation, im not sure what good valves are, but ask around. I think i heard chevy makes some bulletproof valve guides, seats, seals, etc. and have someone help you put it together that know what they are talking about.

ps im not trying to dis the people that told him to ditch the 305. He says he wants it, let him have it.

BTW, bulletproof dosnet nesseccarily mean good tq and hp.

 

I'd keep your original block in safe keeping and build a 350. That's what I'm planning to do with my '92. For that sake, any '92 305 block will do for numbers matching.

Why do you need to rev to 8,000 rpm? Is the autobahn calling your name? It takes a lot of valve train modifactions for a pushrod V-8 to live up there. For a street/strip vehicle, I'd leave the ceiling at 6500 rpms.

JE makes performance forged pistons for a 305. If your going supercharged, forged pistons would be advisable.

The biggest thing to remember is you build a motor for a purpose. Decide on that and work from there. Parts and specifications will follow when you tack that down.

 

Slow89Iroc-Z, What part of that statement did you not understand?

I thought about putting my engine away but I'd rather just rebuild it. I only want N/A for now and I'd like 10:1 compression too. I was thinking about a set of worked aluminum L98 heads but they do not have EGR stuff which I need for CA emissions...

Yeah I'm NOT looking for allot of HP and TQ, it's just that when I rebuild something I try and do it the best possible.

I thought about splayed main caps but I decided I wanted to keep my block 100% original if possible.

So all forged components and GM stuff for the heads? Also ARP main studs. What are the best places to buy ARP parts and good forge internals? I'd like to order and entire reciprocating mass that is fully balanced already...

 

im not really sure where you can get forged stuff. look in magizines like super chevy. they have some shops in there that have high performace stuff.

also if you do want some hp and tq with your engine be very careful with the cam shaft you choose.

 

I plan on sticking with an LT1 camshaft and 1.6 rockers that I'm buying in a couple weeks. To see what mods I will have by the time I rebuild my 305, click here:

http://www.transamgta.com/Webmaster/Performance.html

All of those mods should be done by the time I need to rebuild my motor since it's perfect right now...

I'll go check out some of those mags and see what they say. I know there are allot of ads in the back to read.

 

build whatever motor u want, dont let anyone persuade u. 305s can and will go good, take a look at my signature. yeah 350s are cheaper to build, a little 4 banger is even cheaper, does that mean u should ditch the 8 for a 4? dont think so. i hear ya on the original engine, cause if mine ever lets go its stayin a 305 stock cam and heads just like it is now. i plan on doin a bunch of suspension mods this winter and putting in a 3.45 9 bolt and with slicks im hopin to be consistent at 13.5 to 13.6 ET.

Mods:

vehicle weight with driver 3350 with a 1/4 tank of fuel

hollowed cat
emissions delete
A/C delete
throttle body coolant bypass
cut the bottoms off the air box
manifold air temperature sensor relocated to the air box cover
160 stat, manual control dual fans
dynomax super turbo exhaust
dynomax headers
headman Y pipe 2.25 to 2.50
ported plenum
ac delco plugs
centerforce dual friction clutch
energy suspension torque arm bushing
energy suspension tranny mount

my cardomain

 

Im no expert but with the lt1 cam and N/A you wont have to worry about making it bullet proof, just do a sound rebuild and it will do fine. There are alot of guys with mostly stock blocks making plenty of power and teh engine does just fine. With those parts, things dont have to be real fancy, jsut in good shape. Think of all the stuff you could do with the money youll save on not buying all the bullet proof parts. With the lt1 cam i doubt a sb could even make it to 8k. It just wouldnt make any power out there. Ive had the 262 V6 in my s-10 wound up real good plenty of times and its still in one piece.

 

what does ET stand for?

 

elapsed time

 

Well like I said, I'm not going to try and rev my engine to 8K, I used that example as a way to express the quality and durability that I want.

I want to use the "best" parts because I tend to drive my car very hard. I have a heavy foot and I like to wrap it out to 5K in every gear all the time. I'd like to be able to do that AND still have a 305 that will go another 100K...

 

whoa ur foot seems to have the same characteristics as mine. be careful withthe ever increasing gas prices.

 

i drive my 305 like that to, it loves it. lol

 

alex

i was gonna build my 305 but i tore it up...im pretty sure Power house had a forged 305 piston...
the crank and rods are 350 pieces..any forged will work, you have to get it balanced of course..

now seriously those heads will supposrt almost 500 horse under near perfect conditions..now probly more like 475 or so..with that cam your heads arent gonna work for nothing....if you absoluty have to have the lt1 cam (about the same as a l98 cam) then go for it your still gonna be make good power...350+....but if u want more power, the comp 264 and 268 are good choices...

if your using the stock bace ported or not your power will be heavily limited..wit the stock base youll be lucky to see 300-310
but once you open it up the numbers jump...
i dont know what your doin as far as intake cuz i didnt find n e thing on your specs page other thne gasket matching the stock parts....

i think it would it worth you while to get an after market base (accel or tpis)..and match them yto your slp runners...it would run very nice..

if u did that id have to put more emphasis to "TAKE IT EASY IN THE MOUNTAINS" lol

hope this help man...youll have a killer ride

Rob

 

Thanks! Good advice. I should get an aftermarket manifold huh?

The only reason I'm sticking with the LT1 cam is because I need to stay sqeaky clean for CA emissions, otherwise I'd go with some aftermarket heads and an LT4 hot cam for sure. Hell screw it, then I would build a 406 or something. Oh well it nice to dream. I just smogged last month on the Dyno and I passed of course but I don't have very much room. Damn living in the official smoggiest city in the entire country! They have to vary emission testing by area so out of all CA Bakersfield is the thoughest...

 

your telling me about smog laws, it took me 6 times to pass and a lot of hell with my car...damn them carbs.

BTW i know that if it is tuned right it will run as good as fuel injection, but i also believe that it is easier to make a FI system work better.

 

Some pretty good gains were done with prom tuneing ( I am learning how ) .....and you can switch it back easy enough

 

you should try summit racing for your parts....they have a lot of parts for a 305 www.summitracing.com

 

ohhh dude the manifold is a must...

if u want a smogger cam then tpis makes a great piece..either the ZZ9...a little pricey but u get what u pay for...

this cam and there base and some head work...ohh man watch out lol

 

Thanks, I'll look into the ZZ9 cam and I'll more than likely buy the Accel base...

 

all of the aftermarket bases are about 90% the same..so it really doesnt matter what one u get...

the zz9 cam will be perfect, the other cam i was i gonna mention was the zz409 which i think will be a little to big

 

heres a site for the 305 forged pistons alex

www.pawengineparts.com

$464 for the pistons pins and rings

 

Thanks!

 

I have a 305 that just dynoed at 350 rear wheel HP at 3433 RPM. Over 400 HP at the flywheel.

Engine is super charged with a ProCharger and has intake and exhaust modifications. Perfect compression.

I love my 305.

 

Just a bit of advice and personal experience...If you use the ARP main bolts you need to have the block align honed with the bolts to use em, I would assume the same for the studs. Different clamping force on the main caps.