LT-1 starter swap (with PICS) long
#1
LT-1 starter swap (with PICS) long
Well my starter was making death sounds and I heard rumors that an LT-1 starter would bolt right in. Well it did and it was a great mod. I writing this for anyone that is intrested in using the LT-1 starter.
My car 88 IROC 305 auto with 1 piece rear seal.
Previous starter was the same 21 pound unit that has been in use by Chevy for years.
Advantages: LT-1 starter is 13lb lighter, mounts closer to the block, is smaller (no Y pipe removal), less prone to heat-soak and can crank high compression engines.
I bought a rebuilt/remanufactured unit for about $122 local(Texas) with life-time warranty and $55 core charge. I asked for a starter for a 1995 Camaro Z28.
Can I use this starter?:
Looking at the attached photo and reading a recent article. If you notice that the 2ea mounting bolt holes on the starter are on the same line( straight-across) and are not offset. If your starter bolts are not offset and are on line you SHOULD be able to use this starter.
Off-set indicated large flywheel/flexplate.
On line indicated small flywheel/flexplate.
Install: (lessons learned)
1.Removal of previous starter was the most difficult part. My Y pipe would not allow me to remove the old starter. The starter is held by two bolts at nose area(towards the rear) and one bolt retains the front facing part. This bolt attaches to a bracket which bolts to the block ( did not re-use). I dissasembled the starter above the pipes and took it out in three piece. I should have dropped the Y pipe. NOTE: my Y pipe is TES and larger than stock.
2. Keep all nuts and bolts from the old starter. Also figure a way of tricking the auto shop into taking the old starter as a core. Tell them it was a change over year ( I assume no responsibility).
3. Mounting bolts: the old bolts will be longer, use them with washers or go purchase a set for an LT-1 engine. If re-using the old bolts you will need about 10mm of washers on each bolt.
Best way is to measure the mounting block dimension on the old starter and comapre it to the new starter mounting area, the fill in the gap with washers. Use light force when installing, the nose cone is aluminum. Also ensuere that you have the correct contact are if not you might need shims to get a proper starter flywheel engagment (see instruction provided with starter). My did not need shims and it does not make any noise.
4. Wiring: In my application there was a total of 4ea wire. 3ea on the positive(larger) terminal and one on the ground(tiny) terminal. NOTE: your wires will be short, I tracked the into the engine bay and stretched, unbolted all posible slack found. If your wire are very tight engine torque could snap them > I recommend you add more wire.
5. Wiring lesson: Once you have the starter mounted and the wires secured. Ensure that the cable ends secured to the large post are not making contact with the tiny negative posts. If you re-connect your negative cable on the battery and sparks fly and the starter starts clicking. Stop, your cables are in contac with the tiny post, clock them and try again. Note: if your main positive cable from the battery is to short Auto Parts stores sell longer ones.
6.NOTES: The LT-1 starter has a cool sound when cranking. By one with a lifetime warranty.
1995 Camaro Z28
Sorry for such a long article, hope someone can use it.
Once I come back from IRAQ I hope to write a tech article.
Also anyone who has more info about this mod, please post.
My car 88 IROC 305 auto with 1 piece rear seal.
Previous starter was the same 21 pound unit that has been in use by Chevy for years.
Advantages: LT-1 starter is 13lb lighter, mounts closer to the block, is smaller (no Y pipe removal), less prone to heat-soak and can crank high compression engines.
I bought a rebuilt/remanufactured unit for about $122 local(Texas) with life-time warranty and $55 core charge. I asked for a starter for a 1995 Camaro Z28.
Can I use this starter?:
Looking at the attached photo and reading a recent article. If you notice that the 2ea mounting bolt holes on the starter are on the same line( straight-across) and are not offset. If your starter bolts are not offset and are on line you SHOULD be able to use this starter.
Off-set indicated large flywheel/flexplate.
On line indicated small flywheel/flexplate.
Install: (lessons learned)
1.Removal of previous starter was the most difficult part. My Y pipe would not allow me to remove the old starter. The starter is held by two bolts at nose area(towards the rear) and one bolt retains the front facing part. This bolt attaches to a bracket which bolts to the block ( did not re-use). I dissasembled the starter above the pipes and took it out in three piece. I should have dropped the Y pipe. NOTE: my Y pipe is TES and larger than stock.
2. Keep all nuts and bolts from the old starter. Also figure a way of tricking the auto shop into taking the old starter as a core. Tell them it was a change over year ( I assume no responsibility).
3. Mounting bolts: the old bolts will be longer, use them with washers or go purchase a set for an LT-1 engine. If re-using the old bolts you will need about 10mm of washers on each bolt.
Best way is to measure the mounting block dimension on the old starter and comapre it to the new starter mounting area, the fill in the gap with washers. Use light force when installing, the nose cone is aluminum. Also ensuere that you have the correct contact are if not you might need shims to get a proper starter flywheel engagment (see instruction provided with starter). My did not need shims and it does not make any noise.
4. Wiring: In my application there was a total of 4ea wire. 3ea on the positive(larger) terminal and one on the ground(tiny) terminal. NOTE: your wires will be short, I tracked the into the engine bay and stretched, unbolted all posible slack found. If your wire are very tight engine torque could snap them > I recommend you add more wire.
5. Wiring lesson: Once you have the starter mounted and the wires secured. Ensure that the cable ends secured to the large post are not making contact with the tiny negative posts. If you re-connect your negative cable on the battery and sparks fly and the starter starts clicking. Stop, your cables are in contac with the tiny post, clock them and try again. Note: if your main positive cable from the battery is to short Auto Parts stores sell longer ones.
6.NOTES: The LT-1 starter has a cool sound when cranking. By one with a lifetime warranty.
1995 Camaro Z28
Sorry for such a long article, hope someone can use it.
Once I come back from IRAQ I hope to write a tech article.
Also anyone who has more info about this mod, please post.
#3
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 2
From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
I heard using the LT1 starter is a must when using Hooker long tube headers, which I plan on doing. Very useful info!
#5
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Re: LT-1 starter swap (with PICS) long
Originally posted by 88IROCARMY
......... the 2ea mounting bolt holes.......
........... total of 4ea wire.....
........... 3ea on the positive(larger) terminal......
......... the 2ea mounting bolt holes.......
........... total of 4ea wire.....
........... 3ea on the positive(larger) terminal......
Once I come back from IRAQ I hope to write a tech article.
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#8
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Re: LT-1 starter swap (with PICS) long
Originally posted by 88IROCARMY
6.NOTES: The LT-1 starter has a cool sound when cranking. By one with a lifetime warranty.
6.NOTES: The LT-1 starter has a cool sound when cranking. By one with a lifetime warranty.
that's one of the main reasons i changed to the LT1 starter. i've been enjoying those nice quiet starts for the past year . the old type starters sound like crap, even when new. the weight savings was the other major reason. good job on the article.
#9
I had the same starter in my car which crapped out twice with less then 50 starts each. After that I went out and bought a high tourque one from summit. Haven't had a problem since... Thank *** I got it through a discount because the LT1 starter was going for 250 bucks list price!
Oh and if you ask why I didn't return it a third time I lost the receipt !!!
Matt
Good luck over there
Oh and if you ask why I didn't return it a third time I lost the receipt !!!
Matt
Good luck over there
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