gtaproject

The top of my motor is apart (305, TPI, LB9) and two of the many things that I am doing include the timing chain and plugs and wires. Regarding the timing chain (put simply), if I line up the "dots" and and take off the sprokets and chain, and put the new sprokets and chain in with the dots lined, is this the basic concept? I'm reading all this detailed info regarding timing chains on this board, and I getting confused about that specific part of the job. Is it as simply as that (for the most part)?

Second, any advice (or encouragement appreciated) regarding plugs and wires. I've done plenty (including my 94 Firehawk, holy schmoly) but I am not looking forward to this. Any tricks, or is this just one of those grind it out, soak your hands jobs? Thanks all

Kevin

RB83L69

Yes, it is as simple as that. Note however, that when the dots are aligned together, i.e. crank dot at 12:00 and cam dot at 6:00, the engine is at #6 firing. Rotate it exactly one full crank turn, to where both dots are at 12:00, for #1 firing. This will be significant when you go to drop the distributor in.

And yes, there's no other way to change plugs and wires, other han to change them. Just jump in there, be patient, and do it.

gtaproject

One more thing, I picked up a double roller chain. Will I have clearance issues with the original cover? I'd like to put a new cover on but Mr Gasket says their covers are for use with OEM style chains. Double roller or gear drives "require checking for adequate clearance". Is this the legal disclaimer to cover their hinds, or do I really need a special cover now?

RB83L69

How much did you pay for it? Or where did you get it?

If it's the $20 kind, then it's not really a roller chain at all, it just looks sort of like one. It's what everybody calls a "truck roller" or "bushing roller" chain. Take it back. It's worse than the regular Link-Belt style used as OEM in cars.

If it's the $60 or thereabouts type, then it's really a roller. But I've never seen a timing cover of stock dimensions that wouldn't fit over one of them. I have no idea what sort of CYA they're doing there. AFAIK it's just legalese.

gtaproject

It's a Cloyes C-3023XSP Double Roller Speed Set. I paid $30 at SK Speed (here on LI).

IROCZZ3

On some double roller chains, the chain may actually rub slightly on the block casting where the 3 oil galleys are just above the cam. I had to grind the edges of the galleys just enough to get clearance when I installed my cam. No biggie if you have a Dremel. It takes a little trial and error as you do not want to grind too much and be careful where the shavings go. Cover up the lifter valley, etc.

FWIW, GM used a single roller Cloyes chain on my ZZ3 shortblock. Hmm....

When you install the timing chain rotate the engine by hand. If it feels like it's binding in or you can see the cam sprocket wobble slightly, then the chain is rubbing. Or you can stick a feeler gage behind the cam sprocket and check. Better to check it now than later when you have the motor put together and running.

RB83L69

I don't want to be cruel, but that's not a roller.... that's the bushing type. It's $20 from alot of places.

Those "stretch", actually the bushings wear, an astounding amount; far worse than the OE chain. I refuse to build a motor with one of those. I'll put a stock car chain in before I use that.

If you want it to stay like you built it, send it back and get a real one.

Here's that part in Summit: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=2393 $18.95

Here's a real roller in the Cloyes brand http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=5787 $67.95

Big difference.... in more than just the price.

gtaproject

Telling it like it is doesn't constitute cruelty. I appreciate the candor. I have no problem spending the money on quality parts. The $30 in savings is not worth doing it all again. Is the $67 Cloyes piece worthy of installation in my car, or is there something inherently wrong with Cloyes (or is it just that the cheap parts are cheap parts)?

RB83L69

Cloyes is a perfectly good, quality brand. No problem there, it;s just that that's not a performance part.

You can get the same part from Comp, through Summit, for about $50; part # you're looking for from them is 3100. That's what I usually use, or its equivalent from Lunati, Crane, etc. They're all in that $50-$60 range, and may even be made by the same company such as Sealed Power, Melling, Elgin, Cloyes, Perfect Circle, or Link-Belt. The universe of actual manufacturers of such things is pretty small.

gtaproject

Thanks for the education. Summit has this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=14234

for $43. It is the 3100 but the application guide is blank. Is this the one you were referring to, or is there something else that is 3100 "series" that I should be using?

Thanks again for your help.

Kevin

RB83L69

That's the one, it's the correct one for a SBC with flat-tappet cam. A little cheaper than usual today

Vader

Since that is a multi-indexed timing sprocket (I don't understand whey everyone insists upon calling them "gears") set, be very careful to identify and align the correct pairs os markings when you install the set. Some of the "three-way" sets can have very unclear and confusing instructions and markings. More than once the cam timing has been incorrect after installation of one of these drives, and that can generally be attributed to the unclear markings.

That's a Comp Cams set, and it will fit perfectly under a stock timing cover.

gtaproject

Thanks fellas. Tell me (if you don't mind) about the timing tab in relation to the damper. What is that procedure once I have the chain in and cover back on?

BTW, pulled all the plugs this morning. It was nowhere near as bad as I thought it would be. Also, I was pasing through Pep Boys today and saw a Sidewinder ratchet. It looks like it would come in pretty handy on tight jobs like the spark plugs (In most cases today I could move the ratchet back only one click at a time). Any opinions on these nifty tools?

Kevin