View Poll Results: Best Engine...
302
7
3.48%
305
13
6.47%
350
56
27.86%
377
12
5.97%
383
62
30.85%
400
51
25.37%
Voters: 201. You may not vote on this poll
Best Engine
#51
Supreme Member
<b>what machine work would be required to make a 377 with a 350 crank and a 400 block</b>
you can either: Add Bearing spacers. (NO machine work)
Or you can get a large Journal 350 crank (summit.) (No machine work)
But you will need matching rods / pistons or.. um... else.
you can either: Add Bearing spacers. (NO machine work)
Or you can get a large Journal 350 crank (summit.) (No machine work)
But you will need matching rods / pistons or.. um... else.
#52
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Originally posted by pauldaniel26
I gotta go with the 400, more cubes = more power.
I gotta go with the 400, more cubes = more power.
#53
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Originally posted by pauldaniel26
A 327 or 302 will NEVER make the same HP as a 350 or 400 SBC. Just because it can rev high doesn't mean it will make the same numbers. Just like everyone always says about ditch the 305 and get a 350, the same principle applies here.
A 327 or 302 will NEVER make the same HP as a 350 or 400 SBC. Just because it can rev high doesn't mean it will make the same numbers. Just like everyone always says about ditch the 305 and get a 350, the same principle applies here.
I like how you use the word never in this being that I ahve seen quite a few of the 327 motors making enough to shame a few 350's
let me guess you also think a rotary can't make more then 150hp
or a 1.6L civic can't make over 160hp
and a little 3.8 V6 made by buick was the worst piece of cow dung ever made
also here is some info for you on a 327 build up
http://fbodypage.freeservers.com/
#54
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Originally posted by Mark A Shields
A 327 is a high revving motor, not exactly ideal for a street machine.
no replacement for displacement.
A 327 is a high revving motor, not exactly ideal for a street machine.
no replacement for displacement.
and no replacement for displacement I figured you would know beter by now
#55
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Originally posted by raggedout91RS
377....if you are looking for some serious horsepower
why is it better than a? 350..more cubes,larger bore
383..more hp capability,better rod ratio
400..that long stroke isnt as rpm capable
377....if you are looking for some serious horsepower
why is it better than a? 350..more cubes,larger bore
383..more hp capability,better rod ratio
400..that long stroke isnt as rpm capable
but a 327 crank... nasty to fit I think but might help you out a little
#56
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Originally posted by ede
it's funny how many of you guys talk about the 302 and 327 being such great engines, better preformance, higher spinning, better milage and you aren't old enough to remember them, drove them, or worked on them. at best you've saw a few and have hands on knowledge of less than that.
it's funny how many of you guys talk about the 302 and 327 being such great engines, better preformance, higher spinning, better milage and you aren't old enough to remember them, drove them, or worked on them. at best you've saw a few and have hands on knowledge of less than that.
me pappy had one and I used to ride in it all the time
even drove it a few times..... I liked it quite a bit
#57
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Originally posted by ede
it's funny how many of you guys talk about the 302 and 327 being such great engines, better preformance, higher spinning, better milage and you aren't old enough to remember them, drove them, or worked on them. at best you've saw a few and have hands on knowledge of less than that.
it's funny how many of you guys talk about the 302 and 327 being such great engines, better preformance, higher spinning, better milage and you aren't old enough to remember them, drove them, or worked on them. at best you've saw a few and have hands on knowledge of less than that.
I've got 3 327's sitting in my garage that are mine (2 LJ's and one SJ), 2 of which are on engine stands and a 283 on a rolling Model A chassis, also mine. I've been at quite a few engine dynos where I could witness what different bores, strokes and rod lengths can do and I was only born 18 years ago.
#58
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Originally posted by AJ_92RS
Just an FYI.
There are two 377's. One is the one mentioned above. A 400 with a 350 crank.
The other is a 350 block with a 400 crank but the 350 is not bored .030" over.
So to save face, just make sure you clarify which one you're talking about if you say "377".
AJ
Just an FYI.
There are two 377's. One is the one mentioned above. A 400 with a 350 crank.
The other is a 350 block with a 400 crank but the 350 is not bored .030" over.
So to save face, just make sure you clarify which one you're talking about if you say "377".
AJ
i thought that the standard bore 350 block used with stock 350 pistons and short 5.56 rods and 400 crank was the original 383. the only 377 i have ever heard of is the short stroked 400 block.
#59
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where could i get the bearing spacers to make the 350 crank fit in the 400 block? I think i wil go ahead and build the 377. would it be better to go with the the spacers or the crank, which would be more reliable, how much would each cost? Should i use a 5.7 rod or a 6 inch rod?
#60
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
I like how you use the word never in this being that I ahve seen quite a few of the 327 motors making enough to shame a few 350's
#61
Supreme Member
<b>the only 377 i have ever heard of is the short stroked 400 block.</b>
Which is basically an overbored 350. its just that you cant overbore a normal 350 to 377, you have to take an ALREDY overbored 350 ("400") with the 350 crankshaft. same thing.
<b>where could i get the bearing spacers to make the 350 crank fit in the 400 block? I think i wil go ahead and build the 377. would it be better to go with the the spacers or the crank, which would be more reliable, how much would each cost? Should i use a 5.7 rod or a 6 inch rod?</b>
My opinion: Avoid "exotic" engine combinations. There are MANY Kits out there on the aftermarket that perfectly match up to a 350 sbc, but when you start mixing and matching cranks/bore sizes you complicate things. alot. Its not the best thing to do for a beginner, or somone without the experience to know exactly how to put such a thing together.
Small changes to the way its assembled can make or break the engine.
Ill give an example:
with a 377 Your going to want to use the RPM potential available to maximize your money. If your spending money on good aftermarket pistons/rods/crankshaft your going to want to take advantage of them right? Whats the point of getting a fully forged bottom end then sticking to a 5000 RPM redline? and dont tell me 5000 Rpm redline N/A is enough to make 350+ horses. Not with a streetable 377 engine. and done expect amazing torque without crazy gearing, and thats ALSO not conducive to a high revving engine, especially for the street, and especially when you want to rev that engine up.
I dont know about you, but the last time I CHECKED a 377 was not exactly a "standard" rotating assembly buildup. Finding a suitable 400 block then using "questionable" bearing spacers to support a crankshaft that will be spinning with a decent powerband is not conducive to long engine life. Small changes made to bearing clearance can affect how the engine reacts to a high rpm band. Too tight and you will easilly spin a bearing. too loose and it will bang around. it must be precise, and mixing up a crank in an engine not meant for it will be... dicy. Leave it to the pros.
In short- a 377 is not for beginners/limited budget people, In my opinion.
Which is basically an overbored 350. its just that you cant overbore a normal 350 to 377, you have to take an ALREDY overbored 350 ("400") with the 350 crankshaft. same thing.
<b>where could i get the bearing spacers to make the 350 crank fit in the 400 block? I think i wil go ahead and build the 377. would it be better to go with the the spacers or the crank, which would be more reliable, how much would each cost? Should i use a 5.7 rod or a 6 inch rod?</b>
My opinion: Avoid "exotic" engine combinations. There are MANY Kits out there on the aftermarket that perfectly match up to a 350 sbc, but when you start mixing and matching cranks/bore sizes you complicate things. alot. Its not the best thing to do for a beginner, or somone without the experience to know exactly how to put such a thing together.
Small changes to the way its assembled can make or break the engine.
Ill give an example:
with a 377 Your going to want to use the RPM potential available to maximize your money. If your spending money on good aftermarket pistons/rods/crankshaft your going to want to take advantage of them right? Whats the point of getting a fully forged bottom end then sticking to a 5000 RPM redline? and dont tell me 5000 Rpm redline N/A is enough to make 350+ horses. Not with a streetable 377 engine. and done expect amazing torque without crazy gearing, and thats ALSO not conducive to a high revving engine, especially for the street, and especially when you want to rev that engine up.
I dont know about you, but the last time I CHECKED a 377 was not exactly a "standard" rotating assembly buildup. Finding a suitable 400 block then using "questionable" bearing spacers to support a crankshaft that will be spinning with a decent powerband is not conducive to long engine life. Small changes made to bearing clearance can affect how the engine reacts to a high rpm band. Too tight and you will easilly spin a bearing. too loose and it will bang around. it must be precise, and mixing up a crank in an engine not meant for it will be... dicy. Leave it to the pros.
In short- a 377 is not for beginners/limited budget people, In my opinion.
#62
Supreme Member
OH and lets clear up this "no replacement for displacement" argument. The last time I checked there are 4-cylinder neon motors making 800 horsepower and 455 pontiac big blocks making 220 horsepower.
<b>
Its all in how you build it, and what you bolt onto it.
'nuff said
</b>
<b>
Its all in how you build it, and what you bolt onto it.
'nuff said
</b>
#63
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Car: 89 Shortbox
Engine: 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Enough bickering,
A 350 is the cheapest/easiest sbc to build period.
And I think its got the best of both worlds, O.K top end HP and O.K bottom end tourque.
I've built 2 motors in my short life, both being a 350, there a great beginner motor to build.
A 350 is the cheapest/easiest sbc to build period.
And I think its got the best of both worlds, O.K top end HP and O.K bottom end tourque.
I've built 2 motors in my short life, both being a 350, there a great beginner motor to build.
#64
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Originally posted by Kingtal0n
Its all in how you build it, and what you bolt onto it.
'nuff said
Its all in how you build it, and what you bolt onto it.
'nuff said
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my budget does not concearn me. it will just be that i will have to put off building this engine till i have enough money. I have an ouncle thats a mechanic, his son races circle track cars and he builds them for him. Ive adopted his philosophy that if im going to build an engine, i might as well build the one i want, and if i take the time and do it right, only good can come from it. People have built 377's before so it doesnt seem like as big of a gamble as you make it out to be, if i do it right which i will. i was still wondering about the the rod legnth though, which should i use? I also thought the idea of a 377 was so that you could rev like a 350 but have the bore like a 400. Assuming i do everthing right, shouldnt i be able to turn at least 6000 rpm?
#67
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Originally posted by Kingtal0n
OH and lets clear up this "no replacement for displacement" argument. The last time I checked there are 4-cylinder neon motors making 800 horsepower and 455 pontiac big blocks making 220 horsepower.
<b>
Its all in how you build it, and what you bolt onto it.
'nuff said
</b>
OH and lets clear up this "no replacement for displacement" argument. The last time I checked there are 4-cylinder neon motors making 800 horsepower and 455 pontiac big blocks making 220 horsepower.
<b>
Its all in how you build it, and what you bolt onto it.
'nuff said
</b>
it's all on how you build it
no replacement for tuning and matching parts would be the best phrase
but it doesn't rhyme so nobody uses it
#68
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Originally posted by pauldaniel26
Take two motors, one a 350 and one a 327. Mod them equally. All things being equal the 350 will always make more power. Just like people don't want to sacrafice 45 cubes and build a 305, why sacrafice 23 cubes when it will cost hte same if not less to build a 350?
Take two motors, one a 350 and one a 327. Mod them equally. All things being equal the 350 will always make more power. Just like people don't want to sacrafice 45 cubes and build a 305, why sacrafice 23 cubes when it will cost hte same if not less to build a 350?
I'm sure if you build them both the same the chevy would make more power but that is b/c of the different way the bore and stroke on the motor is you can't build them the same
granted it is an extreame example
but I'm sure the 302 or 327 vs the 350 can be done about the same
you can bulid them the same and the 350 will produce more low range then the 302 or 350
but if you biuld the motors the way I like them... revy bastards the 350 would start to fall behind...
now it might be able to rev as high as the 327 or 302 but due to more stroke and mass it would start to fall off in power when up in that power range
#69
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Stick with the 350. I doubt most people here have the budget or paitence to do anything else, I know I dont. The 350 will give you an improvement or a 305, 307 or a stock 327. 400's IMO are "schit" Ive seen soo many with rods poking out of the oil pans it pathetic, granted that can be fixed by real connecting rods/bolts.
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i say long rod 383 like i did. pump gas compression, gobs of torque, lots of hp and good rpms. if you look for deals you can find parts to build anything for a good price. he|| i paid less than $900 for my eagle steel crank and h-beam rods. this is my first stroker and i can tell you is sure as $hit ain't gunna be my last.
#71
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<b>I also thought the idea of a 377 was so that you could rev like a 350 but have the bore like a 400. Assuming i do everthing right, shouldnt i be able to turn at least 6000 rpm?</b>
An Engines Valvetrain is what determines redline/powerband. I know a few 355 sbc's turning 11,000 Rpms N/A making well over 800 horsepower. <b>Its all about flow...</b>
More than anything, the bottom end is just a means to justify the end. you cant spin a stock 350 bottom end to 11,000 rpms. You have to decide what your power range will be, and just how much fuel/air you plan on cramming into the cylinders. If you expect VE of 110% or more at 8,000+ rpms, expect to pay a pretty penny for a bottom end.
Likewise a stock 350 bottom end is usually good to 5500-6000 rpms as it sits, but again VE(no huge blowers) and cylinder pressure (no nitrous) can affect that ratio. The more power you make, the higher you make it, the more you will to spend on your bottom end.
A 377 VS 350 is kind of like the old 427 VS 454 argument. theoretically, the 427 with its smaller stroke can handle the rpms better than the 454. Actually, the truth is a 454 can handle just as many RPMS as a 427... with the right components. problem is, most people dont want to use the right components when its cheaper to just drop down to a 427 crank and be easier to make that power up top without the extra expense of a stroner forged 454 crankshaft.
<b>Its all about flow</b>... an engine is a vacuum pump, make it flow and it will go.
<./end opinions.>
An Engines Valvetrain is what determines redline/powerband. I know a few 355 sbc's turning 11,000 Rpms N/A making well over 800 horsepower. <b>Its all about flow...</b>
More than anything, the bottom end is just a means to justify the end. you cant spin a stock 350 bottom end to 11,000 rpms. You have to decide what your power range will be, and just how much fuel/air you plan on cramming into the cylinders. If you expect VE of 110% or more at 8,000+ rpms, expect to pay a pretty penny for a bottom end.
Likewise a stock 350 bottom end is usually good to 5500-6000 rpms as it sits, but again VE(no huge blowers) and cylinder pressure (no nitrous) can affect that ratio. The more power you make, the higher you make it, the more you will to spend on your bottom end.
A 377 VS 350 is kind of like the old 427 VS 454 argument. theoretically, the 427 with its smaller stroke can handle the rpms better than the 454. Actually, the truth is a 454 can handle just as many RPMS as a 427... with the right components. problem is, most people dont want to use the right components when its cheaper to just drop down to a 427 crank and be easier to make that power up top without the extra expense of a stroner forged 454 crankshaft.
<b>Its all about flow</b>... an engine is a vacuum pump, make it flow and it will go.
<./end opinions.>
#72
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Car: '84 Z28
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who has got a 355 that turns 11,000 rpm? I'd like to see that. Just think of the money that the nascar teams put into their 9000 rpm small blocks. I thought that 9000 rpm was about all of a 90 degree V8 was capable of.
#73
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I'm not sure about the 11000 rpm thing, but even higher isn't immpossible. If the rotating mass can be kept light enough. Newton said as something like "as an object approches the speed of light, its mass becomes infinit". So make it faster and its mass increases (mass not weight). The only thing hard about reving high is that rotating parts will break. With new alloys becoming common, an engines theoretical redline can only be increased.
#75
Originally posted by ede
it's funny how many of you guys talk about the 302 and 327 being such great engines, better preformance, higher spinning, better milage and you aren't old enough to remember them, drove them, or worked on them. at best you've saw a few and have hands on knowledge of less than that.
it's funny how many of you guys talk about the 302 and 327 being such great engines, better preformance, higher spinning, better milage and you aren't old enough to remember them, drove them, or worked on them. at best you've saw a few and have hands on knowledge of less than that.
#76
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Originally posted by Marshall89ws6
my g-pops 327 vette
my g-pops 327 vette
#77
it was a 62..... i dont really know much about the motor..... he is deceased..... but my dad always tells me it was so fast and he forgets what was all in it lol.... it was back in the good days
#78
Supreme Member
Originally posted by Marshall89ws6
it was a 62..... i dont really know much about the motor..... he is deceased..... but my dad always tells me it was so fast and he forgets what was all in it lol.... it was back in the good days
it was a 62..... i dont really know much about the motor..... he is deceased..... but my dad always tells me it was so fast and he forgets what was all in it lol.... it was back in the good days
#79
Originally posted by iroc22
Has your Dad driven your car yet? lol It's probably faster.
Has your Dad driven your car yet? lol It's probably faster.
actually in the top end that little porsche would demolish me..... but who cares about going 160 mph lol
Last edited by Marshall89ws6; 10-22-2002 at 10:09 PM.
#80
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Well that 11,000 rpm 355 thing has people going huh?
I dont think 11,000 rpms is anywhere near the speed of light...
The engine I am mainly refering to was built by the same person that helped me build my engine, my first time around. Its actually a 360 now (350 bored .060 over) and its in an "Altered" Drag car. It was producing around 800~ horsepower when the powerglide blew and it over-revved (no rev-limiter) to about 14,000 RPMs, Snaping the faces off of most of the valves. He would shift consistantly at 11,000 rpms on the track.
I have heard the altered run down the track.
Do you know what a small block chevy sounds like at 11,000 Rpms?
I do.
I dont think 11,000 rpms is anywhere near the speed of light...
The engine I am mainly refering to was built by the same person that helped me build my engine, my first time around. Its actually a 360 now (350 bored .060 over) and its in an "Altered" Drag car. It was producing around 800~ horsepower when the powerglide blew and it over-revved (no rev-limiter) to about 14,000 RPMs, Snaping the faces off of most of the valves. He would shift consistantly at 11,000 rpms on the track.
I have heard the altered run down the track.
Do you know what a small block chevy sounds like at 11,000 Rpms?
I do.
#81
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Nobodys calling you a liar, I've pulled just over 7000 out of my motor a couple times now(by accident - just late on shifting out of 1st).
And of course it not the speed of light, I was just illistrating that a psiton for example has huge momentum at high revs.
And of course it not the speed of light, I was just illistrating that a psiton for example has huge momentum at high revs.
#82
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Originally posted by Kingtal0n
Do you know what a small block chevy sounds like at 11,000 Rpms?
I do.
Do you know what a small block chevy sounds like at 11,000 Rpms?
I do.
#83
Supreme Member
<b> I was just illistrating that a psiton for example has huge momentum at high revs.</b>
I heard that going from 6,000 Rpms to 7,200 Rpms doubles the stresses imposed on the rotating assembly. (2x the stress at 6,000 is seen at 7,200 rpms)
which is why they say forced induction makes "soft' horsepower, the piston on its way up is met by the pressureized atmosphere in the intake manifold from the boost coming through the valve, thus slowing the piston down before it hits TDC and making it easier to reverse it's direction. I read that in a few different supercharger books.
And as for nascar remember thats 9K continuous usage, were only talking about 11K once in short bursts down the track. powerglide = 2 gears, and you probably will never hit 11K in second gear (unless your drag car does 300+ MPH in the 1/4)
Also:
Remember in 1969 with CAST rotating assemblys there were 302 DZ motors spinning 11K.(not stock of course) Its not amazing we can spin 11K now with all the high-tech lightweight aftermarket crap they have now.
But with everything, you still have to ask yourself this question:
"Do you feel lucky, punk? well, do ya?" Cause you never know....
I heard that going from 6,000 Rpms to 7,200 Rpms doubles the stresses imposed on the rotating assembly. (2x the stress at 6,000 is seen at 7,200 rpms)
which is why they say forced induction makes "soft' horsepower, the piston on its way up is met by the pressureized atmosphere in the intake manifold from the boost coming through the valve, thus slowing the piston down before it hits TDC and making it easier to reverse it's direction. I read that in a few different supercharger books.
And as for nascar remember thats 9K continuous usage, were only talking about 11K once in short bursts down the track. powerglide = 2 gears, and you probably will never hit 11K in second gear (unless your drag car does 300+ MPH in the 1/4)
Also:
Remember in 1969 with CAST rotating assemblys there were 302 DZ motors spinning 11K.(not stock of course) Its not amazing we can spin 11K now with all the high-tech lightweight aftermarket crap they have now.
But with everything, you still have to ask yourself this question:
"Do you feel lucky, punk? well, do ya?" Cause you never know....
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Originally posted by Marshall89ws6
actually in the top end that little porsche would demolish me..... but who cares about going 160 mph lol
actually in the top end that little porsche would demolish me..... but who cares about going 160 mph lol
Brian
#85
Originally posted by 89blackGTA
At least you can grab it and go 160 if you want to.
Brian
At least you can grab it and go 160 if you want to.
Brian
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How are you gonna get a 383?
You can get more RPMs if you DESTROKE a 400 to 383. That's what I want to do later on when I have 3 cars and money.
Also, you got the extra cubes if you want it.
Benefits from destroking a 400 to get a 383:
Not as much cooling problems
More RPMS than a stroked 350
Beefier block that can take some punishment
Guessing on these:
Higher compression won't kill it.
N2O compatible(er)
bigger block = more oil = more life out of your 383
--Dan
Also, you got the extra cubes if you want it.
Benefits from destroking a 400 to get a 383:
Not as much cooling problems
More RPMS than a stroked 350
Beefier block that can take some punishment
Guessing on these:
Higher compression won't kill it.
N2O compatible(er)
bigger block = more oil = more life out of your 383
--Dan
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Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Marshall89ws6
heh i know i was being sarcastic.. it would be very fun i think...... but id be dead if given that oppurtunity...... ud find me on a tree somwhere........ yea u should see half the features its got.... a spoiler that comes up at 75 mph and all kinds of crazy ****:hail:
heh i know i was being sarcastic.. it would be very fun i think...... but id be dead if given that oppurtunity...... ud find me on a tree somwhere........ yea u should see half the features its got.... a spoiler that comes up at 75 mph and all kinds of crazy ****:hail:
Brian
#89
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Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
Do you know what a small block chevy sounds like at 11,000 Rpms?
I do.
Do you know what a small block chevy sounds like at 11,000 Rpms?
I do.
#90
remembenr the 400 block is kind of crap since there is no cooling for the inner two cylinders........ not good for race...... good for a mild street engine with a really good cooling system
#91
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Car: 89 Shortbox
Engine: 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
my buddy built a 377, then sold it to some kid. The kid didn't watch the temp guage, and ended up melting it down.
#92
Supreme Member
<b>You can get more RPMs if you DESTROKE a 400 to 383. That's what I want to do later on when I have 3 cars and money.
Also, you got the extra cubes if you want it.
Benefits from destroking a 400 to get a 383:
Not as much cooling problems
More RPMS than a stroked 350
Beefier block that can take some punishment
Guessing on these:
Higher compression won't kill it.
N2O compatible(er)
bigger block = more oil = more life out of your 383
--Dan</b>
Also, you got the extra cubes if you want it.
Benefits from destroking a 400 to get a 383:
Not as much cooling problems
More RPMS than a stroked 350
Beefier block that can take some punishment
Guessing on these:
Higher compression won't kill it.
N2O compatible(er)
bigger block = more oil = more life out of your 383
--Dan</b>
#93
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Car: 1987 Buick Grand National
Engine: 231ci 3.8L Turbo V6
Transmission: Rebuilt stock 200-4R auto
just stick a BUICK 3.8 turbo V6 motor in it and call it a day!
#94
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Originally posted by Marshall89ws6
More Cubes= more tourque..... and plus 400 is probly the worst goddamn block chevy made.
More Cubes= more tourque..... and plus 400 is probly the worst goddamn block chevy made.
Yeah the 400 is a real POS I barely broke into the 9's with mine in my 3100lb car. There is nothing wrong with a 400 block, they are the highest demanded GM blocks there are. "it is better to be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt."
#95
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Car: 1983 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 1986 305 C.I.D. Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 W/Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: 3:08
what a shock...not toomany.....if any votes for the 305...poor lil motor...lol oh wait...ive got one.....damn...well actually i like it
#96
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Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
I see a lot of people degrading the SBC 400 because they dont have a clue what they are talking about. Before you open your mouth please do some research using the (scientific method) basic high school information. The 400 got a bad name because people thought they always over heated.... Shade-tree Mechanics did not compensate for the saimese twins cylinder. A 400 would out run any 350/383 withe the same internal parts. They will run just as cool if the steam holes were drilled in the block and proper cooling system setup. .. Dont just go by some hearsay that SBC 400 overheats. 75% of the reason you see all these 383 is because the 400 block is such a scarce resource. Im lucky I got a Standard 400 block fo $50.00.
Please know what you are talking about before posting such bad information, because somethings are best left unsaid....
Please know what you are talking about before posting such bad information, because somethings are best left unsaid....
Last edited by DTL504; 11-10-2002 at 10:17 PM.
#97
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Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
This is a HOT Item
SBC 400
4.125 bore- 3.750 Stroke= Plenty of volume to fill
SBC 400
4.125 bore- 3.750 Stroke= Plenty of volume to fill
#99
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Car: 84 T/A
Engine: Stock L69
Transmission: T-5
LOL!! Gawd, this is a hilarious thread!
BTW, there is more to engines than displacement. For example, engine design is a big factor. Create a 350 cid V8 with a 1.6 inch bore and 55 inch stroke (fast math, so if its wrong, sue me), and I'll race you with my self propelled single cylinder Honda pushmower and we'll see who wins. Of course, this is an outrageous example, but it proves the point.
If you have two engines of equal quality and equal availability of high performance parts, then the engine with more displacement has more upside potential for power. Reaching that potential is the challenge (and the fun). So, pick your poison and go build it. We'll see how it works out on the track!
I personally would like to try stroking a 400.
BTW, there is more to engines than displacement. For example, engine design is a big factor. Create a 350 cid V8 with a 1.6 inch bore and 55 inch stroke (fast math, so if its wrong, sue me), and I'll race you with my self propelled single cylinder Honda pushmower and we'll see who wins. Of course, this is an outrageous example, but it proves the point.
If you have two engines of equal quality and equal availability of high performance parts, then the engine with more displacement has more upside potential for power. Reaching that potential is the challenge (and the fun). So, pick your poison and go build it. We'll see how it works out on the track!
I personally would like to try stroking a 400.