**help Help** Please Help Me
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**help Help** Please Help Me
To anyone and everyone,
I recently bought some headers for my 91 Formula. THe problem is that when removing one of the bolts on the factory exhaust manifolds it broke off, and two other bolts just won't budge. I am not too worried about the one that broke as I am of the two that won't come out. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to use to get them out... Thanks for reading this and please reply back if you have any suggestions.
Will
I recently bought some headers for my 91 Formula. THe problem is that when removing one of the bolts on the factory exhaust manifolds it broke off, and two other bolts just won't budge. I am not too worried about the one that broke as I am of the two that won't come out. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to use to get them out... Thanks for reading this and please reply back if you have any suggestions.
Will
#2
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
Wrong board, I think
If you're talking about the bolts that hold the manifold to the y-pipe, and you're replacing them with a header system, just break 'em off. Get some leverage, like a long bar or wrench to use as a cheater or a breaker bar. Make sure you use the right size socket or you'll round 'em instead, then you'll need a torch.
If you do happen to have a torch though, het the bolts until they're cherry red and quench them in oil to pull oil into the threads. May even be able to just warm the car up...be careful of the smoke from the oil though. Good luck!
If you're talking about the bolts that hold the manifold to the y-pipe, and you're replacing them with a header system, just break 'em off. Get some leverage, like a long bar or wrench to use as a cheater or a breaker bar. Make sure you use the right size socket or you'll round 'em instead, then you'll need a torch.
If you do happen to have a torch though, het the bolts until they're cherry red and quench them in oil to pull oil into the threads. May even be able to just warm the car up...be careful of the smoke from the oil though. Good luck!
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where can i get aerokroil
Where can i get that stuff at i couldn't find it at autozone?????
Originally posted by laiky
here i go again:
aerokroil, get some it works!!!
here i go again:
aerokroil, get some it works!!!
#5
I work with Aerokroil every day and hate the stuff, WD-40 is better IMO. Personally I like Rid Rust, it is thinner than kroil or WD-40 and will penetrate much faster.
Do a search for penetrating oils and you'll come up with things like this http://www.herchem.com/Products/PenOil.htm
Do a search for penetrating oils and you'll come up with things like this http://www.herchem.com/Products/PenOil.htm
Last edited by Morley; 09-27-2002 at 11:26 AM.
#6
thats funny, i love the stuff. it is amazing compared to wd 40. may be not as good of a generalpurpose lube but wayyyyy better as a penetrant. i usually try heat and wd40 first. when that fails a couple squirts of AK and i don't even need the torch.
i'm going to look into that other stuff you mentioned, i like a complete arsenal.
i'm going to look into that other stuff you mentioned, i like a complete arsenal.
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#10
For the bolt that broke off...
drill a small hole in the middle of the broke bolt. take a one of the very small allen wrenches (make sure its a little bigger than the hole) and hammer it in. That will give you the needed resistance to spin the bolt out. .be sure to use one of the penetrating oils youve been talking about before you try because its obviously rusted in
#12
Originally posted by kevinc
I like PB Blaster, available at CarQuest and most other parts stores.
I like PB Blaster, available at CarQuest and most other parts stores.
As for the carbon fused bolts, penetrating oil, more penetrating oil, heat, a little more penetrating oil, and lots of time for it to work seems to be a good solution for me.
Once you get them apart, you WILL believe in anti seize compound, and use it on everything.
Kroil is O.K. Blaster! PB is O.K. Even good old WD-40 can work, given enough time. Standard Oil (Atlas) used to offer a moly-formulated Heat Riser Lubricant that made an excellent penetrtant. Even plain old kerosene will penetrate well (ever see a diesel or jet/turbine fuel system that DIDN'T leak?).