91-GasGuzlinZ-28

It's a 91 with the vats key. In the past it would start after5-10 minutes. It wouldn't crank, I would just hear a buzz from the fuel pump, the service engine soon light stayed on and so did the security light. The temp, voltage gauge would move every time i would try to start it. Nothing happened, no crank. Then a few minutes later it would start right up like nothing happened. Now my car wont start at all. I turn the key to start and all i hear is the fuel pump. There is no crank. The engine soon light stays on and so does the security light. My temp and voltage gauge move when i turn the key, but no crank. I've tried using my spare key and nothing. I've tried starting it in nuetral and pushing the lever forward and still nothing. I've also washed my keys and wiggled the key in the starter and still nothing. The remote starter wont start it. The battery and alternator are fairly new. The only thing i've added since the car has started to get worse and worse are hedders. What could be causing this problem?

rezinn

If your security light and check engine light stay on it's probably your vats. You need to either bypass it or find a new unit, but I have no idea how it works as I've never seen it before.

IROCZTWENTYGR8

iTrader: (1)

When I had something like this the starter had to be replaced.

Perry93TransAm

Sounds like the starter to me.

91-GasGuzlinZ-28

would it be a starter problem even if my car in the past would start and other times it would take 5-10 minutes to start. When it wouldn't start there was no crank.

TPIFormula

I am having the same problem and I just replaced the starter and nothing! Everyone keeps mentioning the VATS and thats it PPL please be more specific!

TheCob

Ok, if you think that it is the starter, pull it and take it to a parts store. Most places will test it for free. If bad, replace it.

To me, it sounds like a VATS issue. I would try bypassing it and see if you get the same results.

To bypass VATS.

1) get volt/ohm meter, set it to ohm, and place one contact of the meter to each side of the key. You should get an ohm reading. (You could also take the key to Radio Shack and get them to check it for you.)

2) Obtain resistor(s) that match the value of the key. The people at Radio Shack will help you with this if need be.

3) Remove lower dash cover/kick plate. It is the plastic thing that is below the steering column that has the fuse box access door in it.

4) Look under the dash, near the middle of the steering column. You should see a bundle of wires coming out of the column. Look for a thick orange or yellow wire. It should have 2 white wires coming out of the colored insulation.

5) Follow it until you find a black quick connector. Separate the connector so that you have a male and female connector. The male connector should be on the wire that goes to the steering column and the female connector should be on the silde that goes to the VATS module.

6) Connect one end of the resistor (the one you bought from radio shack) to each contact in the connector on the VATS side(ususally the female connector). It doesn't need to be a permanent connection, but should be a solid connection.

7) Turn the key on, but don't crank the motor. You should see the SES light come on and the InfRest(if you have an air bag) light come on and the Security light come on. After a few seconds, the Security and infRest lights should go off. If the Security light goes off, then you bypassed the VATS system. Either way try to start it.

If it still won't start, then either the VATS module is shot or not bypassed or it is something else.

In mine, the wires that go from the key down the steering column got rubbed by the lock cylander and were shorting out causing issues similar to yours. I bypassed my VATS and haven't had any issues.

Hope this helps.