Z_Ghost

2 Questions what do you all use for Assembly Lubricant, I got a tube of ARP Assembly Lubricant to use on their bolts, it says that it can be used on cam bearings lifters and some other stuff, but would it be OK to use on the main bearings.


Also checking the mains bearing clearances tonight and I am getting .0014

Using Clevite77 P series bearings and they are .010 over.

Do you all think I should get a set of .009 over bearings to get the clearance up to .002 or would it be OK to keep it at .0014

Do they make a .009 over bearing?

RB83L69

That clearance is perfect. You don't need to do anything to it. For a street build I shoot for .001-.0015", so you're right in there.

I use ATF or 5W-30 synthetic for build lube on all the bearings. There's no need for anything thicker, it just makes the motor even harder for the starter to turn over initially. I use white lithium on flat tappet cam lobes and all non-roller valve train parts (or cam break-in lube like from Comp or whoever, if I have enough), ATF or synth motor oil on all roller things. The ARP stuff I would only use on rod & main threads, NOT head bolts.

Z_Ghost

Thanks..

ede

i use moly lube on the cam lobes and the distributor gear, for the bearings i use lubriplate 105 motor assembly lube.

Z_Ghost

The instructions that came with the head bolts says to us the ARP Assembly Lubricant with the bolts, so should I not use it and torque them to the normal torque and just use sealant on the ones that go into the water passages?


ede I have a can of that stuff that is almost empty and it's about 12 years old, guess I will go look and see if the parts store has some. Thanks

boogie

I use the lubriplate 105 also, NAPA has it in squeeze tube.

Lonnie

Kingtal0n

eh when you took that clearance, you didnt have any assembly lube UNDER the bearing did you? it will add about .004 to your reading. you dont want a super-tight motor anyways, a loose motor will eat less horsepower and spin up quicker. it will also be better with a HV oil pump, and your pressure wont be so obscene. Beware teflon, I am TOLD by Comp Cams any "thread sealant" / MOLY base lubricant will SCRATCH bearings if there is too much and not enough oil during initial startup. and a word on oil / moly: using oil to torque bolts / studs will require more torque than "moly" to achieve the correct bolt stretch. Thats what it says on all of ARPS Kits, so dont flame me!

Z_Ghost

No they were all clean, I had just scrubbed out the block and oiled it and I did wipe the mains before putting in the bearing shell.

The clearance seems tight to me also, but the guy that did the machine work build allot of hot street cars and he said that he likes them that tight. But I have also read were they should be from .002 to .0025.

ede

don't use any sort of lube on the head bolts. you need a non hardening sealer. i use liquid teflon from locktite PST is the brand name.

ronterry

Did you check all the mains, or just one?
Did you check the clearences at 90 degrees from the location of the first area checked?

I have seen STD, .002, .010, .020+++, over bearings.

Did you use plastic gauge, or something more accurate like a bore gauge, and a caliper gauge?


Ron

Z_Ghost

I checked all of them.

Used a snap gauge and mic.


After doing allot of reading I am going to leave them like they are.

Even sent Clevite an e-mail and got a reply that said that on a street motor that you want to last 100,000 + miles this was good.

Thanks guys for all the replys.