I'M SICK OF GETTING STRANDED AND WALKING, please help!!
#51
Bad gas will do the same thing you are describing. While a carbed car will run on the gas (poorly but runs) a fuel injected car will NOT. It will run ok for a bit then sputter and die, let it sit for 20-30 minutes and it'll start up and run for a little bit again then do the sputter/die thing again. If you can, drain the tank, go to a different gas station than your normal one and get a gas can full, throw a little STP gas treatment in the tank and pour in the gas, try driving the car to the gas station to fill it up and add the rest of the STP.
Hope this helps
~M~
Hope this helps
~M~
#52
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by Morley
Bad gas will do the same thing you are describing. While a carbed car will run on the gas (poorly but runs) a fuel injected car will NOT. It will run ok for a bit then sputter and die, let it sit for 20-30 minutes and it'll start up and run for a little bit again then do the sputter/die thing again. If you can, drain the tank, go to a different gas station than your normal one and get a gas can full, throw a little STP gas treatment in the tank and pour in the gas, try driving the car to the gas station to fill it up and add the rest of the STP.
Hope this helps
~M~
Bad gas will do the same thing you are describing. While a carbed car will run on the gas (poorly but runs) a fuel injected car will NOT. It will run ok for a bit then sputter and die, let it sit for 20-30 minutes and it'll start up and run for a little bit again then do the sputter/die thing again. If you can, drain the tank, go to a different gas station than your normal one and get a gas can full, throw a little STP gas treatment in the tank and pour in the gas, try driving the car to the gas station to fill it up and add the rest of the STP.
Hope this helps
~M~
Frustrating, no? And the worst part is I'm pretty much flat broke so there ain't nothin' I can do to fix the stupid thing.
#53
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Wait, I just remembered something...
Before I changed the fuel pump, whenever I would take my gas cap off it would hiss and release pressure.
It doesn't do that anymore.
Could that have something to do with it...?
Before I changed the fuel pump, whenever I would take my gas cap off it would hiss and release pressure.
It doesn't do that anymore.
Could that have something to do with it...?
#54
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Car: 84 camaro Z28
Engine: 434sbc
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: moser 9" with 411 posi
try replacing the fuel filter first(it might be clogged) then if that doesnt work try replacing the fuel pump
#55
this might seem like a silly question, but i've seen it happen. you have a 305tpi which requires forty something psi of fuel. could you have gotten a fuel pump for a 305 tbi which is 9-13psi? best of luck, tom
#56
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by heavy_chevy29
try replacing the fuel filter first(it might be clogged) then if that doesnt work try replacing the fuel pump
try replacing the fuel filter first(it might be clogged) then if that doesnt work try replacing the fuel pump
Please read the thread.
#57
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by mckenzie
this might seem like a silly question, but i've seen it happen. you have a 305tpi which requires forty something psi of fuel. could you have gotten a fuel pump for a 305 tbi which is 9-13psi? best of luck, tom
this might seem like a silly question, but i've seen it happen. you have a 305tpi which requires forty something psi of fuel. could you have gotten a fuel pump for a 305 tbi which is 9-13psi? best of luck, tom
Plus, I did tell them I was TPI. :: shrug ::
#58
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700RJunk
If you put the wrong fuel pump in there like one of the low-pressure/tbi types, you would notice it right away (car would always run like crap if at all). If its not the module give the coil a try. You can use your DMM to test it but again this problem happens when the car is warm so your coil might still read fine when its cold eventhough it's messed up. Also, the 02 sensor shorting out won't cause this. The ecm only regards oxygen sensor readings within a specific acceptable range. If the readings are out of this range and don't fluctuate, the ecm reverts to open loop operation and sets a code. You see, if the sensor grounds out, the o2 crosscounts will be 0 (because the voltage is constant due to it shorting), telling the computer that the oxygen sensor isn't reading thus putting it into open loop.
Last edited by RedFirebird; 05-10-2002 at 12:14 AM.
#59
If your gas tank isn't "hissing" when you take the cap off you may want to check the "negative pressure vent" located near the gas tank. It is a whiteish plastic device with a single hose going back up to the tank. Since fuel injected engines use a nonvented tank they put this device in to keep the tank from getting negative pressure in it from the high volume /pressure pumps fi uses. If the negative pressure vent were to stick closed you would eventually get negative pressure built up in it and the pump couldn't pull any gas. To test this theory out, take the car out for a drive (if you can) (have someone follow you just in case) When the car dies, get out and open the gas cap, try starting the car, if it starts then replace the vent.
Grasping at straws here but might just be it.
~M~
Grasping at straws here but might just be it.
~M~
#61
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by Morley
If your gas tank isn't "hissing" when you take the cap off you may want to check the "negative pressure vent" located near the gas tank. It is a whiteish plastic device with a single hose going back up to the tank. Since fuel injected engines use a nonvented tank they put this device in to keep the tank from getting negative pressure in it from the high volume /pressure pumps fi uses. If the negative pressure vent were to stick closed you would eventually get negative pressure built up in it and the pump couldn't pull any gas. To test this theory out, take the car out for a drive (if you can) (have someone follow you just in case) When the car dies, get out and open the gas cap, try starting the car, if it starts then replace the vent.
Grasping at straws here but might just be it.
~M~
If your gas tank isn't "hissing" when you take the cap off you may want to check the "negative pressure vent" located near the gas tank. It is a whiteish plastic device with a single hose going back up to the tank. Since fuel injected engines use a nonvented tank they put this device in to keep the tank from getting negative pressure in it from the high volume /pressure pumps fi uses. If the negative pressure vent were to stick closed you would eventually get negative pressure built up in it and the pump couldn't pull any gas. To test this theory out, take the car out for a drive (if you can) (have someone follow you just in case) When the car dies, get out and open the gas cap, try starting the car, if it starts then replace the vent.
Grasping at straws here but might just be it.
~M~
#62
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by 89WS-6
clogged fuel filter???
clogged fuel filter???
Or maybe your distributor doesn't have a certain wire plugged in on the side...huh who would forget that...me.
#63
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Dude, you've really got to get dirty on this one... If I'm without my car for a day, I get tense. Any car manual (like the Haynes) will show you what to do for the module.
#64
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by TomP
Dude, you've really got to get dirty on this one... If I'm without my car for a day, I get tense. Any car manual (like the Haynes) will show you what to do for the module.
Dude, you've really got to get dirty on this one... If I'm without my car for a day, I get tense. Any car manual (like the Haynes) will show you what to do for the module.
#65
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Oh geez, dude, my bad; this post is so long that I forget what's been covered already! Sorry! Did I send you that link for the chart I typed up, where it covered diagnosis of the pick-up coil?
#66
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by TomP
Oh geez, dude, my bad; this post is so long that I forget what's been covered already! Sorry! Did I send you that link for the chart I typed up, where it covered diagnosis of the pick-up coil?
Oh geez, dude, my bad; this post is so long that I forget what's been covered already! Sorry! Did I send you that link for the chart I typed up, where it covered diagnosis of the pick-up coil?
Yes, you sent me links, but I'm afraid to get down there and mess with my pick-up coil, I don't think I have the tools to do change it, and I'm afraid I'll screw up my timing, etc. And I was told that if it was that, my car would have problems all the time, not just when it warmed up. I would want a shop (or my mechanic uncle) to handle that one I think.
#67
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Similar problem
My car doesn't start sometimes after driving for a few days. I tried to pour gas into the tb and it would start. So i figured it was the fuel pump. I changed the pump,relay, and filter. Still same problem. It would start and run then after I shut it off it wouldn't restart. Then I changed my ecm (just wednesday) it starts fine. Then last night after a five minute drive, it wouldn't start. I am believing it is my wiring harness, b/c during these times my fan doesn't work either and eventually the motor and braket burnt while driving on the highway. But I was told ignition module b4 and haven't replaced it so what the deal? Could my distributor and coil be causing all this dilemma?
#68
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
it sure could...replacing the pickup coil is simple...no special tools needed....just mark the position of your distributor and the #1 piston on the rotor. before you take it out.....remove the clamp at the base of the dist. pull the distributor out....do not turn the engine over at all.......at the base of the shaft there is a roll pin...punch..punch it out..the shaft will pull out of the housing...the rest is self seeing work...just put it back together the way you take it apart...oh yeah be careful not to damage the O ring at the end of the shaft...can cause an oil leak...it really is easy, you will see
#69
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I just had the same exact problem with my 305 TBI Camaro. I changed the controle module and it seems to have fixed it but I haven't run the car long enough to see if the car's gonna act up again. I know you already changed yours so it has to be the coil or distributor. Just buy a new distributor kit and replace the whole thing.
#70
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Car: 89 jaguar xjs convertable
Engine: 89 L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 dana 44
Dude....your uncle is a mechanic......take him the car!!!!! If he is family he should be able to cover you under the "pay as you drive plan"!!!
#74
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Car: 89 jaguar xjs convertable
Engine: 89 L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 dana 44
It would be nice if people could post the results of their dileman and how they corrected it. Then we could all pat ourselves on the back and crack open a beer! I, for one, am always looking for an innovative reason to crack open a beer! LOL!
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