92blue

iTrader: (1)

I took out the factory air induction assembly and put in a 3 x 14 open element a while back, and it didn't work too good. I ended up putting the stock one back on it. It ran slightly better when the temperature was nice(high 70 s), but it ran disgustingly worse in the hot weather. The car just would not rev past 2200 rpm. I think this is because the grille on thirdgens are really low and the open element sits really high in the back of the engine compartment. I've been told that getting either a cowl induction or ram air hood will make it work much better. It makes some sense to me.
Has anyone else had this problem? What did you guys do to fix it?

NTChrist

Did you leave the Thermac vacuum port open?
You have to plug that port, either with a rubber thingy or with a screw.

brodyscamaro

did you plug the vacuum line?

vic_V8

wow, many runs great hot or cold

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

your car would not run past 2200 rpm and you attribute that to the open element?

*shakes head*

I love this message board

Snowdog 91 Formula

I had a similar thing happen to me Pablo. It was my wiring, I had a short with the TPS.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

Yes I did plug the thermac device. I also installed the IAC sensor in the new intake base, and connected the elbow on the passenger side valve cover to the intake as well. Pablo, as far as not revving past 2200 rpms, it WAS the open element. The same day that I put the stock one back on, the problem went away. Again, the only possible explanation that I can find is lack of air getting to the filter. Granted, the open element can suck in alot more air than the little stock intake, but it sucks in hot air, and very little air gets to it. The car was fine when the temperatures were rather cool, but it was running horrible when it got to the high 80s or low 90s.

TBI305Camaro

it cant be lack of air the open element will pull ALOT more air in than the stock cleaner can...the stock cleaner is to restrictive so you cant say the open element was starving for air....i dont think the stock cleaner really takes in much "cold air" to small of an opening and then the restrictive thermac valve and then of course it has to go threw the filter over a mountain and down overtop of the injectors.........

NTChrist

You mean you hooked the breather hose into the open element? How did you do that?
Actually, don't bother answering that.
Save yourself some trouble, and buy a "push-in" style breather, for $5. This breather will fit right into your valve cover.
The reason that the elbow from the valve cover goes to the old housing is because that's where the filter for the breather is held.
You're not supposed to have a direct routing from your valve cover to your intake.
You're going to end up with a lot of oil in the TB/combustion chamber.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

I was aware that I could have just put in a breather on the valve cover, but I'm not sure why I didn't. Its pretty stupid now that I think about it, because I hadn't realized that I still needed to somehow filter everything coming out of the valvecover before the throtle body. Its not a problem right now though, cause I have the stock air cleaner assembly in the car.
Its very annoying though to know that other people are running open elements without problems, and having the thing sitting there, unused.

JPrevost

You must have done something wrong. The open element will run better than a stock unit no questions about it. The difference in air temp has about as much of an effect on a stock motor as taking a **** would effect your 1/4 mile ET.
BTW, if you installed the "IAC" in the base then that is your problem. The IAC is your ntake air controler, it should be in your TB!!! I think you ment to say you installed the IAT (Intake Air Temp) into the base. Double check to make sure all the wires are installed and don't waste your time installing that vacuum thermac piece in the open element. Just plug those vacuum hoses so it isn't causing a vacuum leak.
With an open element you're better off just relocating the IAT to the firewall. I just used a zip tie and have it hanging off of my MAP sensor.
Again, because you said the car runs fine before a certain temp I'm led to believe that your IAT isn't working the way it should.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, about the typo, I did mean the IAT. And I wish that was the problem because that would be an easy fix. How can I check if it is working or not? Wouldn't the computer recognize its not getting a signal from the IAT and turn the engine service soon light on?
It is on the stock assembly right now, and the car is running fine, which confuses me further still.


By the way guys, thanks for all your help. I wasn't expecting to get this many replies, at least not this quickly.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

How can I check if the IAT sensor is working properly?

JPrevost

Do a search for winaldl on www.google.com and make the simple interface hardware from RadioShack parts (4 parts!). Then borrow a laptop from a buddy and run the software with the winaldl hookedup. It's like Diacom for windows and will tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about your car. Not just error codes (which it lists in front of you) but also sensor data to check accuracy, it even has tables that graph and log results to tell you if your car is running rich or lean.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

JPrevost, that is some of the best news of heard in a while. Seeing everything the computer is doing and all the input it receives from the sensors, DAMN! From what I've read at some websites, setting it all up is cheap and easy as hell also. Thanks for all your help.

JPrevost

My pleasure, I just wish more people would use winaldl.

Faithbird88

heads up to all, open elements ROCK!!!!, Jon (Jprevost) stopped over my house a couple of weeks ago, we messed with our cars a bit, now was not an open element fan, but once i drove my Bird with stock air cleaner off, inoticed big time difference, open is the way to go



mike