Hi all, my first post here. I've got a Toyota FJ60 with an early 90s 350 conversion. I've been have some issues that I can't seem to pinpoint. Before I go throwing parts at it I wanted to get some insight from some people that know these things more than the guys on the toyota forums I frequent. I have a parts truck (95 k1500) that seems to match my engine, or close, that I've used parts from to test that I've had running so I know the parts were good (transmission issues and no title on in-laws purchased land so became my parts truck)

My fuel pump is very new and runs when connected directly to 12v, does not prime or run otherwise. Engine does not run when fuel pump is forced to run but I have spark at the coil. Cap, rotor, etc look good. I don't hear my fuel pump relay click and one from parts truck doesn't click either when key is turned. Have also swapped ICM from parts truck. I tested my injectors with 9v battery and they clicked.

I've been having some issues with it in the last few years, a new fuel pump seemed to fix it for awhile, the next time I replaced one of the short wiring harnesses off the coil from my parts truck as it was getting spark and that fixed it. After that it ran good, but I noticed it would almost die out/get weak when getting on the throttle at high rpms. I also noticed the CEL was on, but did not get a chance to check the codes. Then it completely died and won't start with current condition as described above. And the CEL does not illuminate when the key is turned to ignition as it normally should and will not flash when I try to check codes. This has me a bit worried.

with no CEL and seemingly no communication to the fuel pump relay I'm wondering if it's the ECM. But trying to diagnose further before I throw money at it. I plan to get a new relay to rule that out completely but I find it hard to believe that both my relays aren't working.

I appreciate any insight. I love these engines and have a plow truck with a slightly newer 350 in it as well. I'm also addicted to old land cruisers, I always felt they should have came stock with a 350!

 

Car TBI 350? Truck TBI 350?
The Car 350 may have a roller cam and flat-top pistons. More desirable than the Flat-tappet, dish-piston "VIN K" truck engine.

How much of the donor vehicle fuel pump wiring was transferred to the Toyota? The pump should run when the computer commands the fuel pump relay to turn on. The pump should also run if the engine has oil pressure, regardless of the fuel pump relay. In normal operation, the current powering the fuel pump is split between the relay and the oil-pressure switch.

If the pump doesn't run for the 2-second prime, you have computer/wiring/relay problems.

If the pump doesn't run after the engine is cranked long enough to have oil pressure, you have oil pressure, oil pressure switch, or wiring problems.

Is the fuel pump fuse any good? Have you tested it?

Injectors should have power whenever the key is turned to "Run" or "Crank". The computer controls the ground side of the injector circuit. Injectors are generally powered by an ECM fuse. Have you verified ALL the fuses?

Ignition module controls spark below 400 rpm. After 400 RPM, computer controls spark. Is the computer powered?

What happens if you spray some aerosol CARBURETOR (NOT "Brake") cleaner; or dump a little gasoline into the throttle body? Engine run?

What is the fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load?

"Codes" can be useful. The real diagnostic power is in the data stream. Connect a scan tool (NOT a craptastic "code reader". "Code readers" should be deposited in the nearest trash can.) and verify EVERY sensor, and EVERY computer output. Once it's running, look at fuel trims and spark-advance/knock sensor info.

This is sounding a lot like a popped ECM fuse, or broken power wire for the computer. I'm not saying it couldn't be something else, but that's where I'd start.




For the record--you say you have spark, but it's worthwhile to check the magnet on the pickup coil/distributor mainshaft for cracking. Epidemic problem with TBI distributors. Causes weak or erratic signal to the ignition module.

 

Which ECM are you using and does it possibly have VATS???

 

Thanks for the input. I was told it came out of a Caprice police interceptor, but have not verified that as I'm not sure. From the engine I have pulled these numbers: Chevy 350 engine code: 14093638, VE193151, intake number: 14102182, E153, SGI, 6197.

not real sure how to track it down.

I'm not sure exactly how much wiring they used from the donor vehicle for the fuel pump. It is just wired at my frame rail. I had read some things about the oil pressure sensor being part of it and plan to replace it. I looked at the fuses in the fuse panel (stock toyota panel) and the 2 located near my fuel pump relay (part of the engine harness) and all looked good. Not sure if there are any other fuses and where. Also not sure if the computer is powered. When carb cleaner is sprayed in intake it runs (one way I verified spark). Unfortunately I cannot test fuel pressure as I cannot get the pump to work unless I connect directly to 12v. What sort of scan tool do you recommend for OBDI vehicles?

I'll check the wiring again, where is there a fuse for the ECM? Are there fuses in the wiring harness i should check?

I appreciate all the help.

 

Bonus. You'll want to find out the details--model year, for example--so you can get accurate wiring diagrams from the appropriate GM service manuals.


I think the VE will be significant. Numbers/letters cast into parts won't matter. Numbers/letters STAMPED in might.

If they didn't take ALL of the donor vehicle computer/sensor/actuator wiring, they did a poor job of installing the engine assembly.

TEST it, before you replace it. Find out if it's got power. The OEM system may or may not have two oil pressure sensing devices, or maybe just one. Any way you look at it, it's three wires. One wire to drive the gauge in the instrument cluster which may be connected to an oil pressure sending unit down by the oil filter. Two wires--power in, and power out--to drive the fuel pump. That sensor would be by the distributor. Or--a three-wire sensor by the distributor.

Don't "look" at them. Test them with a voltmeter or test-light.

I would not expect the Toyota fuse panel to be powering the added-on computer and computer-related systems. But I suppose anything is possible, depending on who did the conversion and whether they took any pride in it.

It must have been at some point. The question is whether it's powered now. In other words, did the fuse(s) or circuit breaker(s), or fusible link(s) pop in the meantime?

That verifies a good portion of the ignition system. Not all of it, but a fair amount.

So do that. See what pressure you get.

When it was my money, I bought a used-but-usable Snap-On Solus Pro with the usual accessories--battery, battery charger, owner's manuals on DVD, various cables, vehicle adapters, personality keys, and a bigass suitcase to carry it all around in. I was sure to buy one with software new enough to cover any vehicle I planned to work on, because the Solus Pro is no longer supported by Snappy, so there are no updates to the software, no repairs, no parts--nothing unless it happens to work with the current versions of their scan tools. I paid $350 shipped to my door about three years ago, suitable for vehicles from 1980 1/2 to 2007.



There are competing brands of scan tools, which I have ZERO experience with. There are newer and older versions of the Snap-On tools. And there are dirt cheap software-plus-cables or dongle to use with a smart phone or laptop computer; and I have ZERO experience with any of those except to listen to guys bitch about them on forums like this one 'cause the software doesn't do everything it's supposed to do, and maybe still doesn't even after paying extra for "additional PIDs".


You need to ask the guy who installed the engine/ECM/Harness.

 

I'm not sure, how do I tell?

 

thanks so much for the information. I am thinking something is up with the ecm, since my CEL is no longer working also, that just seems odd. Im going to do some deep diving into the wiring and see what i can find and fully test the fuses for the fuel pump. There are a lot of wires around the ECU in the kick panel, likely going into the engine bay, that I've never really looked at, so I'll to some tracing, see if I find any fuses and make sure I don't have any damaged wires. Thanks for explaining the oil sensor relationship with the system as well, I'll look into that and make sure it's all good.

id like to confirm what vehicle this engine came from. Are there any good resources on that? I.e. where numbers might be located and tables describing them? Thanks!