so today i did the egr delete. now i got idling problems.

i know they say you need like an ecm tune so the check engine light goes out but when i did mine i plugged the vacuum hoses and no light comes on but

why am i idling at like 2k rpm then it goes down to 1500 rpm? i need help fast please and thanks

 

first off why did you do this? and if did you put a block off plate on the egr hole? cause otherwise you just have a big giant vacuum leak.

 

you NEED TO REPROGRAM the PROM! PERIOD. The programming involves maxing out a value which makes the ECM think that the EGR system is working properly. BUT you may run into problems. I want to ask you something. Y do u wanna delete the EGR? The EGR benefits your engine. It ijects exaust into the cylinders to reduce the upper cylinder temperatures. If the upper cylinder temp gets too high, you can run into issues such as detonation, engine knock, and pinging. This will result in the ECM retarding the spark which will lower your performance. As we all know, deton., ping, and knock can destroy a block. I would seriously reconsider your mod. Besides, it will cost you money to reprogram your PROM. Or you can buy the Moates G1 adapter and have someone program a blank EPROM for you. But then agian, they can charge you a lot.

One more thing, removing the EGR system is not really deleting it. Its removing key components and maxing out the value of the the EGR value in celcius.

 

Are you sure you talking about the EGR? you sure you know what and were the EGR is?

In this case you just did the worst and most useless mod to your car.
Though if it's only a track car, EGR was not active anyway, except when crusing to the track.

For the tune you just deactivate EGR in the calibration loaded in the chip.

 

Are u sure about the EGR? U max it out, not delete it.

 

I have learned, to set the EGR enable themperature wery high in the bin. (for VE learning), this keeps the EGR inactive. Until the engine starts burning

 

the engine is screwed up anyway. no need to freak out about a crappy 305 TBI anyway. this thing runs very awful idles really high and backfires in upper rpm even before i removed the broken old bent up egr valve.

should i rip it apart and put a rebuilt 305 in or should i just park it and finish my 355 build?

 

yes i have a block off plate on it

 

well yeah i know what and where the egr is im not stupid.

 

I would find out what's wrong with the stock engine and finish up the 355.

Chances are the 355 will not run any better, if the issue is not longblock related.

 

Do you have a steady SES light when the car is on? If so, pull the TC codes.

 

no the light doesnt even come on i know that it works because it was always on before i changed oil plugs and pulled egr. the onlything its doing is idling at like 1700-2000 rpm. i think its something with the vacuum lines cause theres a few that are open

 

well there you go!

 

Yes a vacuum leak will deffinately cause this that is why i asked if you installed a block off plate. you did so that is good. But if you have a different vacuum leak hopefully you didnt drive it too long dont want to run lean for too long. Can burn up the engine.

 

The EGR system does not activate at idle, so it would have no effect then.
Stop worrying about your EGR and fix your vacuum leaks.

 

WHAT!!!! Regardless, he will need the EGR to drive at normal speeds or else he runs the risk of detonation. Also if he moves, he will need to perform a smog test depending on the state or county he lives in.

 

His EGR is gone. Who exactly are you trying to convince here?
He has IDLE problems and is asking for help, but getting nothing but bad advice and irrelevant opinions concerning his EGR system.
People that run EGR often have problems with idle due to the EGR system malfunctioning, but he has eliminated this possibility.

You are sounding like the EGR police.
California - LOL

 

No such thing as "EGR police" 305sbc here in Cali.

"The EGR system does not activate at idle, so it would have no effect then. Stop worrying about your EGR and fix your vacuum leaks. "

 

So then check the resistance on the fuel injectors. Our OBD1 systems are as advanced as the newer cars. Newer cars with OBDII systems had the ability to detect which cylinders where misfiring either due to bad coil pack, bad spark plug/wires, or bad fuel injectors. Pull each fuel injector connector and measure the resistance in ohms. Then come back and let us know the resistance values. Driverside from front to back are numbers 1,3,5,7. Passengerside cylinders from front to back are 2, 4, 6, 8. I had terrible idle until I bought a set of Bosch III's. My idle was smoother and throttle response was crispier. Good luck man.

 

 

did you forget he has TBI not TPI?

 

DAMN IT!! Good lookin. U got me on that one. Check the resistance on both injectors.