firechicken90

ok, so here it is. I have a 1990 firebird with the L03/700r4 combo with an open(non-posi) rear end and those sexy *** T-tops. after much consideration, I have decided to build up my little 305 despite what many have told me. This will also be my dd. After some lurking around on this board for a few weeks, and a little research into the block itself I have compiled of list of upgrades that I would like to order from summit <b>TODAY.<b/>

Crane Cams 104211 hyd. roller cam 256/266 duration and .407/.429 lift
Edelbrock 3704 performer tbi intake manifold
Trick flow spec. 21400003 hyd. roller lifters
Trick flow spec. 31400511 roller rocker arms
World Products 042750-1 cast iron 58cc heads

I don't know what posi unit, or gear ratio(probably 3.73) I should put in the car, what shift kit I should put in the tranny, or what size pushrods I need.

Also, I need some help in tuning the car, basically I don't know how to do it or what all is involved. If someone could shed a little light on these issues or suggestions please let me know. I need to get these answered by 8pm so I can order the stuff to be here tomorrow.

within the next week or so I will be adding a more powerful alternator, to handle the power load from the stereo I will put in. Im going to dyno mat the whole interior, swap elec 4th gen leather seats. run dual 800w amps, two polk audio dxi 12" subs, 5" polk audio dxi components up front, and 6x9 polk audio dxi components in the sails and a 2 farrad capacitor. I just bought and installed an alpine double din deck(ina-w900bt)

camaronewbie

Tuning is going to require chip programming. You'll need a laptop, a connector wire to the ALDL port, a programable prom, the tuning software (last time I looked was about $300 just to get the equipment to program). Then, you'll have the learning curve of learning all the variables, how to change them, what changes effect what, etc. None of this will happen overnight - if you have no idea about tune programming, it might take you weeks or longer just to get the car to start and run.

This is why most folks swap a 350 in - you have to do all the same work, might as well get your money's worth (and time). There are a few 305 folks that insist on doing the 305 just to see if it can be done, and to test the limits. But they spend months/years always messing with it to test the limit. If that's your idea, great. But you said daily driver - if you want reliable daily driving capabilities within a few weeks, this is not the road to take.

RFmaster

Crane cam is mild enough and stock ECM calibration maybe close enough to get you by. Like the other poster stated tuning will bring full potential of the new engine (305 with top kit). There is a learning curve, but it is very addictive! Edelbrock intake is equivalent to OE - other than saving weight over cast iron piece there is limited performance difference. You can re-use roller lifters with your new cam unless OE are bad (I highly doubt). You'll probably need push rods and rocker arms - make sure to get correct push rod length! World Product heads are nice, but at $499 each are pricey! IMHO, chamber size is a bit on the larger size 58cc - make sure to run thinnest head gasket (0.028 to 0.035) you can find not to drop compression. Dropping 350 in place of 305 opens a slew of possibilities and challenges (how big is your budget?)
If you can - improve on exhaust system to make 305 happy.

//RF

firechicken90

I was told the 305 had flat tappet lifters. I had to change trick flow roller rockers, to crane cams gold race series, stock 1.5 ratio and they are narrow body to fit the heads, valve cover mounting style. I have been reading and asking and decided on hooker 2055 and gonna run true duals with a canister muffler I believe they are called. since it is a 90', I have the 28 spline axles and am going with the eaton series III 7.625 in limited slip carrier, and a set of richmond 3.73 gears to pull. going with a double roller timing set(chain and sprocket), also putting in a transgo performance shift kit, and aluminum pan with the drain plug.

I don't know if I will be able to get away with putting these on until I can do the bottom end. the odo is reading 219k and im affraid the bearings, rings, and crank wont be able to handle all that Im gonna put to it.

all of this is about $4500, I have to put 2500 into the audio and just spent half on a damn alpine deck. 2k in the paint, and another 3k for wheels, tires, and the rest of the body(i.e., bumper covers, gfx, and hood) my seats are only gonna cost about 500 to be redone, if I can't find 4th gen for cheap.


my budget for this build isn't bottomless, but its decent, ill say. I know a 350 would show much greater potential, but I am set on building this little 305 to run 350-400 hp on motor at the crank. these mods should get me what Im looking for.

FUNIROC

iTrader: (4)

If you're going to spend that on heads I would use the following:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30300006/

firechicken90

I looked at the entire line of trickflow heads summit had to offer, they are all aluminum and have angled plugs. I was told that aluminum heads on a street car would cause more of a headache than the hp gains are worth, that and, headers are hard to find for the angled plug style, atleast for my stock application. one of the big things I liked about the assembled trickflow heads were that they had damper springs. but the fact that they were aluminum is what changed the direction the most.

the new heads are world products
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WRL-042750-1/

firechicken90

can a put a more aggressive cam in this for better performance, without sacrificing streetability? if so, suggestions would be appreciated!!

FUNIROC

iTrader: (4)

Well if the aluminum heads are that bad I want someone to show me the proof. All I have found has been good. You do know most high end daily cars have aluminum heads. Also from what I have seen about the angled plugs is it helps to be able to get them out when you install headers.

I am sure some here may say otherwise. I would like proof not just he said she said.

firechicken90

I didn't say they were bad, I said I was told they caused more of a headache in street cars then the hp gains were worth(with regard to the way the two metals handle and heat i.e., aluminum head, multi-layer steel head gaskets, and cast iron blocks) high end cars have aluminum heads, aluminum blocks and use a special head gasket usually solid copper and the block goes through a special machining process called "o-ringing" that places a wire around the circumference of the cylinder that bites into the copper. angled plugs are great for taking them out when installing headers, but you have to find the headers first. at least for my stock application

firechicken90

the aluminum head with the multiple-layer steel(mls) head gasket and cast iron block all handle heat in different ways and and cause blown head gaskets, loss of compression between cylinders and catastrophic failures!! more of a headache in a daily driven car, than in a race car that is typically gone over after events, and even in between races. far more of a headache than the hp gains would warrant.

This is not what I'm trying to do with this car. **** off some over zealous so-called racers on the street every now and again, get me back and forth to work and school, and sometimes with a little more speed than is necessary just for the hell of it!! and then let everyone know it was JUST that little 305 nobody thought could do ****

FUNIROC

iTrader: (4)

Both heads should work fine on a daily driver. Bottom line your car your choice.