the car is a 92 RS auto with 305/5.0 factory. from what i can tell the heads and intake, defently the fuel delivery, is the 305 factory stuff, but unknown bout the block. but heres the deal the car will shut off and most of the time start back up when, and only when, its at a idle and the car has been running for a while, like a hour or so.

fuel filter new
plugs new and gapped correctly
new wires and in the correct firing order
new cap
new rotor button
the broken vaccum lines replaced
the massive intake leak fixed
car has lenty of gas

the idle is sat at 750 in drive warmed up, and despike all the new stuff there is still a misfire!!!!!!!!! also the car would try to stay running but would just "choke" out. when at idle the oil pressure would drop into the red zone and choke out, but after the intake fix the oil pressure doesnt drop below 16ish psi. so what is breaking down whent he car gets hot? ill add more stuff of what the car is doing or if any info is needed. thanks.

 

I'm assuming it's a TBI car (has a round 14in air cleaner)?
Need to check the timing - unplug the EST wire to check.
Did you verify continuity on all the plug wires? (new doesn't mean good)
In the tech articles there is info on testing/adjusting the IAC and TPS - check those.

If there's 5 qts of oil in it, and it's getting pumped/circulated, probably just a bad oil guage sender - it's in driver head between #1 and #3 plugs - replace it and see if oil pressure reads better - should really idle at 40 and rev up to 70+

Is it refusing to start when it's hot? If so, try replacing the ICM in the distributor.

 

it is TBI and it has a aftermarket aircleaner on it, like one from the parts store deal.
i have checked timing and sat it. when i was setting it (before starting this thread) iw as hopeing it would fix it.

i replace the idle air valve but didnt adjust it, thing said it adjusts itself. and i dont think there is a tps on here but ill double check could always be wrong right? haha

and ya when its first running the oil is 40+ (holds oil, doesnt burn it or lose any) but its only when the car warms up does the oil go down to 15 in idle (bout 25 in idle in park) but as soon as you hit the gas just a little it shots right up there.

and for the most part it starts back up but sometimes itll take some cranking.

 

If it wants to cut off and not restart when it's at op temps, I'd say maybe ICM.

If it just doesn't want to restart immediately when it's cold, I'd say check the fuel pump relay - the fuel pump might not be priming, and so it takes a minute for the oil pressure to build and make the pump run off the OPSU.

 

lol took me forever to relieze ICM = control module and ive checked it out took it to autozone tested it myself like 15 times in a row (got very hot) and it passed everytime. but for the most part tho it starts right back up.

 

thats wrong. its not on the cylinder head. its right above the oil filter

 

You are right! I has coolant temp guage sender on the brain.

Oil temp sender is either above the oil filter, or on the china wall driver side of the distributor.

 

lol ya the sender is above the oil filter. but hey guys ive had a new idea, the pick up coil int he dist. makes sense to me since i repace damn near everythign else with the ignition, but what do you guys think?

also i think that this dist is the factory one (since the heads and intake are the factory ones) and if thats so its got 220k miles...

 

why is it that everyone who has a TBI car has this problem and posts it, and everyone has good ideas on what to check, but there's never a real answer to this problem posted....???? ARGH!!!!!

 

agreed!!!! but now the newest thing (cuz some other things started to happen) is a vaccum leak. and we all now how much of a pain in the *** a vaccum leak can be.

so the new project coming soon is when i replace my rad ima be takeing the intake back off and resealing it (gona use so much sealent ppl gona say "is there an intake in there?" lol) and replace every single vaccum hose i see.

ill post wether or not this helps.

 

A vast majority of the time it's the ICM inside the distributor. They rust from moisture when they need to make a good contact. They also go bad from heat (it's an electrical part that is subjected to a ton of heat from the engine and the distributor itself). And upon replacement, most folks neglect to put the dielectric grease on them which is really needed. And, everyone wants to have it tested - I don't trust a free test of it, a free test of a battery is fine, an alternator OK - beyond that most $8 an hour Autozone folks can't be expected to do much else. It's a $40 part, why test a $40 part? Just buy a new one and then you know it's not the problem (most of the time). If you don't have $40 to throw at a car, you really shouldn't have one IMO.

 

hey im one of those 7.50/hr autozone guys -_- and i tested my ICM it passed...but i went ahead and got a new one. and nothing changed.

 

Sorry - wasn't meaning to offend anyone I'm sure that there are plenty min wage people that do the best job they can (I know a few myself, and I may be one as well if this economy doesn't get better soon!).

But you have to admit - there's alot of min wage folks that don't generally know, and don't generally care.

 

lol im not offended but ya you are right, but now back to topic...the ICM isnt the problem...