well i took apart my intake manifold to replace gaskets , put it back together , replaced all vaccum hoses , torqued all bolts to spec. all wires are plugged in . so here's the big F*** up i did , it was dark and i tried to jump start my car but i plugged the battery back wards and all my lights went on , so i go to turn them off and as im walking to my drivers side , i hear a sizzling , so i run back to disconnect the jumper cables and white smoke comes out from my battery , now today i tried starting my car but all it does is crank over , also i dont hear the pump prime . did i blow a fuse or did i burn out my relay ? if its the fuse wich one is it ? so i can know what to buy saturday. all help would greatly be appreciated.

 

Do a key-on, engine-off and watch the SES light. It should turn on briefly, blink off, then turn on solid. The fuel pump should also run for about 2 seconds then shut off.

There is a fuse under the hood inline with a wire. This fuse feeds the ECM & fuel pump relay. IIRC, on a Firebird, it is near the battery. The wire is run along the passenger side fender well. The fuse will be in a small plastic/rubber rectangle.

Hopefully it popped and all it needs is to be replaced.

RBob.

 

thanks Rbob once again your knowledge saves me money and a headache ! , well i just pulled out the fuse and i can see that it is a yellow fuse with a number " .20."
and the two little tabs , then theres a small wire in between those tabs that looks like this would connect both tabs together but it looks melted . is this fuse done for ?

 

yup it dids its job just get anew one.hopefully it blew fast enough that nothing else was damaged.

 

alright , i'll go steal one from the suburban and see if it works . brb in 5 mins.

 

ok . so the suburban had the same fuse , put it on the bird. it suck that the battery is dead , i'll have to jump start it , will update ASAP.

 

well , i tried starting the car up but still no pump priming . What else should i look for , is there another fuse i should check ? btw i put gas in it just to make i wasnt on E "meter reads wrong" .

 

Might check any and all other fuses. Check voltage on battery with volt meter - see if it has at least 11 volts - needs at minumum 11 volts to crank. Check fusible links beside battery - probably fried one of them.

 

yeah Rbob told me about the one by the battery , i changed that one because it was fried , it cranks ,just not getting that 2 second humming noise from the pump so its not priming , if its not fuses what else could it be ?

 

maybe fuel pump relay?

 

The 2-second prime mode is done via the ECM through the relay. There is a small transistor in the ECM that may have popped. It is easy to replace, I have a post or two on it on the DFI & ECM board.

The other thing you can do is to prime the TBI by pouring a little fuel down it. Then see if it starts and keeps running.

Once the oil pressure builds (from either running or long cranking) the oil pressure switch will close and provide power directly to the FP. This mode bypasses the FP relay.

RBob.

 

yeah, i tried squirting starting fluid down the TB but all it does is burn whats in the intake and the poof it dies , my injectors are bone dry so i will search for your post and will update asap , BTW what fuse controls the FP under the steering column "if there is one" ?

 

I don't believe that there is another fuse for the fuel pump. The inline fuse should be the one. I only have a '92 service manual so can't be sure of an '88.

See if there is a red pigtail with a single connector on it by the fuel pump relay. Jumper that to +12 volts should turn on the pump directly.

Since the oil pressure didn't turn on the pump, that switch may be bad. Or for some reason the fuel pump decided it was time to die.

RBob.

 

hey Rbob , i just checked all my fuses under the dash and they are all good , also there is two small fuse blocks , how can you tell if those go bad? also i checked the yellow fuse by the battery and son of a gun its blown again ! why would it blow out again ? should i just try turning in this battery for another brand new one ? its still under warranty , i just wont tell them the "whole" truth about why the battery isnt working right

 

The fuse by the battery is the only one for the fuel pump - the fuses in the fuse panel are for the injectors. Thus why you're not getting fuel - fuel pump isn't pumping. Find out why that fuse keeps blowing, fix it, and see what happens then.

 

when putting together my intake manifold i hooked up all my sensors correctly , all my plugg wires are corect , i didnt mess with anything eletrical . My big mistake was hooking up the jumper battery wrong , after that is when i got no FP.

 

well , i got the battery replaced, it was bad , so now i got a new fully charged battery and a couple of new fuses , still blows the fuse by the battery , injectors are bone dry , Like Rbob said there could be a blown transistor in the ecm , could that be causing a short ?, or can my harness just be fried? also im not getting any feed back from the ecm , i turn the ignition and i get no SES light , i even tried jumping terminals A and B and no flashing. any guess on what fried?

 

... the ECM?

 

The ECM is also powered by the inline fuse. Try unplugging the FP relay and see if the fuse still pops. If so, then unplug the ECM and check again.

I don't believe that there is anything else other then the FP & ECM on that fuse.

RBob.

 

ok so i just did the test. first i unplugged the FP relay and left the ECM plugged in , then i plugged in a fresh smart fuse , then i plugged in the positive terminal of my battery and POP! FLASH FLASH ! from the little fuse , so now i kind of know whats up . Next i unplugged the battery , removed the deceased fuse and unplugged the ECM and pluged the battery back on and no pop , then i plugged in FP relay and nothing no pop , so its my ecm ? did it bite the big one ?

 

Odds are that it did.

RBob.

 

sounds like the voltage regulator in the ecm is fried. rBOB is right the only things that run off that fuse are two orange wires to the ecm one orangewire that goes to the fuel pump relay and then out of the relay its grey to the pump. and an orange wire to the fuel pump/oil pressure switch. if the fuse doesnt pop with everything hooked up except the ecm..it s the ecm cause everything else is spliced togeter and connected to the battery with power at all times

(wire colors may be difrent )

 

the ECM is fried... get yourself a new one... this happened to my moms older model GM vehicle... battery was hooked up backwards as well, smoke came out while trying to jump it... the ECM was fried...

 

so0o0o, its agreed , the ECM bites the big one . anyone in the mood for fried chicken brains? , now where should i purchase a new ECM , autozone wants almost 200 bones "with the core charge" 105 without . does AC delco still make these ? and napa, well i think they are way too over priced . any suggestions?

 

whatever gives you a lifetime warranty...

 

ha ha funny , no seriously . quality wise who supplies the best ecms?

 

well I dunno, but check rockauto.com... they typically have OEM ...

 

JY is your best bet - $30 localy in SoCal for 8746 ECM

 

This is part of the issue. Birdstheword909 car is an '88 which uses the one year only f-body '8063 ECM. Going with a '8746 out of an f-body means that the calibration is expecting VATs. So the engine won't run with one ('88s don't have VATs systems).

Kinda' stuck between a rock and a hard place with requiring the '8063 ECM.

Could get an '8746 ECM out of a Caprice. They didn't use VATs, but the calibration won't be the best. However, it will still run the engine decently enough to be drivable.


Birdstheword909, remember that if you go with an re-man, you NEED to keep your PROM. The re-man won't have one. The CALPAK is most likely soldered in. Although if not, then need to keep that too.

These get moved over to the new ECM.

RBob.

 

ok , not familiar with the ecms internals , so anyone one have a picture of what i should pull out ? BTW if i were to buy this
ACDELCO Part # 88999153 {replaces 1228063 #01228063, 1228063}
MODULE,ENG CONT(REMAN) 1228063 LABELED

its from rock auto , would i still need the above mentioned items?

 

Here is a link that has a picture of the PROM & CALPAK:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...om-calpak.html

Will still need to move them over to the re-man ECM. Note that the CALPAK may be soldered in. The picture shows a socketed unit. If soldered then the re-man will also have it soldered in.

These are under the small cover held in place by 2 screws. Which on most re-mans, the cover also gets moved over to the new ECM.

RBob.

 

im guessing that i should only find a PROM and CALPAK? and i wont find a MEMCAL ?

will the re-man include a CALPAK ?

on my ECM the was no cover , except the housing for the ECM , if by cover you mean the second "level" that the CALPAK and PROM , then will i have to remove this too?

disregard all these questions.

 

Rock Auto is a good parts supplier and it maybe worth giving them a call on Monday.

 

i just ordered my ECM from Rock Auto for $91.79 , it said it was for an 88 model vin #E so it should be the correct one . now its just a matter of waiting . will update ASAP.

 

OK , update : well my ECM just showed up awhile ago , CRAZY fast shipping , anyways , back to buisness . It comes with a PROM and CALPAK removal tool , also the number thats on the ECM housing is 7-8063 , whereas mine says 1228063 should this matter? BTW , how do i remove the PROM and CALPAK , on the new ECM it seems that they both just plugg in , and the base for both PROM and CALPAK is the one thats sodered not the CALPAK and PROM themselves . Am i correct ?

 

To make a worthy advise take a digital photo of your original ECM and a photo of your new unit (and post it here). Since I can not see what your original unit looks like it is tough to make a correct suggestion.
Your new unit probably sports a blue label that says 7-8063. The re-mfg outfit takes original part number and creates its own, but keeps the last 4 digits from GM part number scheme - this typical in the automotive industry.

//RF

 

Post these photos of your ECM internals

Re-mfg ECM (1228746) - pulled from JY couple years ago.


CALPAK on left side (smaller and soldered in) and EPROM on the right side - socketed and can be gently removed from the socket (do not remove plastic cover)

 

ok , then i have the correct ECM , mine has the dsame blue sticker , saying it is SE approved and what not , unfortunately i dont have a camera right now so sorry no y pictures, so only the CALPAK is siddered in right? and the PROM is socketed ? just to make things clear.

 

CALPAK is soldered - YES (small 16 pin device)
EPROM is socketed -YES (large 24 pin part with plastic lid over it)

//RF

 

well , they were both socket type , i removed and installed them on the new ecm , im so anxious to install it , hopefully it dosent blow up on me , will install it later today and will update asap

 

Did you keep the same chip orientations??? Pin 1 is can be identified by a dot on a PCB (or 1 printed on the PCB) and IC will have a notch or dot next to pin 1.

//RF

 

MAKE SURE YOU BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED...

 

yes , i had both ecm's side by side and moved over the CALPAK and PROM , hopefully i did it right , if i did it wrong , it said in the instructions that the ECM wil not function right and throw codes , can i ruin the ecm if i installed wrong?

 

not likely, but I rather not be the one to find out. - Update us when you get everything squared away with ECM.

//RF

 

well , the ECM is in and the bird fires up and idles but runs hella rich , i bet my timing is way off , how long until the ecm is in closed loop ? so i can adjust my timing ?

 

Doesn't need to be in closed loop to adjust the timing. Just warmed up to operating temperature. Open the EST/BYPASS connector, set up the timing light, loosen distributor hold down bolt (leave snug to distributor turns slight difficult) and start the engine. It may not want to keep running until the IAC extends. Then at idle set the timing.

RBob.

 

ok , so the car idles , i have the timing set at a little advanced but kind of @ 0* TDC
, i can hear breaks in the exhaust and she's running rich " this sucks " think maybe the o2 went bad ? " to bad i dont have my ALDL cable with me "

 

well , i fanlly got some feeback from the ecm , i got a code 42 and 45 , i wonder if one of them is from disconnecting the est plugg to adjust my timing .

 

Code 42 - EST is probably from disconnecting set timing connector.
Code 45 - O2 is reading consistently high voltage (rich).

Disconnect neg bat terminal to clear both codes. Restart and see if you get Code 45 only.

 

yeah just did that , code 42 is gone , 45 came up again , im starting to think my TPS is bad , i made sure that my calpak and prom are seated right so im not runng in limp mode , no vaccum leaks . is the TPS on TBI's adjustable ? forgot to mention that for sure my o2 sensor is bad after all that rich running .