ok, i already know this isnt a camaro or firebird, so i may be booted, but here goes. after all my googling, i was directed back to this site, which i havent posted on in years. my username and password were still valid, so thanks for not deactivating me. i tried the search finction, and became hoplessly baffled. all the s10 boards and general boards didnt tell me anything but to v-8 the truck, so i turn to you guys.

im currntly working on a 2.8 TBI motor in an S10. 87 to be exact, backed by an automatic. im building this truck to compete in next years GRM challenge, and dont have the money in the budget to do a v-8 swap or anything ilike that. so im looking at boosting the 2.8 with a rear-ish mounted turbo. probably be right after the y-pipe comes together where the cat used to be.

no all the plumbing doesnt scare me a bit. its really nothing that me and my tubing bender cant take care of. and theres another guy on here that solved the fluid pump problem for me. all thats left is making the TBI work under boost, and what to source the turbo from.

first things first. what should i csource the turbo from? im hoping to hold up to 6-8 pound of boost, with minimal lag being acceptable. haveing the turbo start to spool up around 2000 would be ideal, as any lower than that and ill just blow the tires abay with no rear weight. the key for the turbo is cheap. like junkyard sourced, as thats the kind of budget im working with here. if i can take two junkyard turbos, mix and match the housings, and make a good hybrid, thats perfectly acceptable too. i was personally thinking something off a volvo, saab, or mopar turbo2.2, as those would be small enough for quick spool, and easy enough to find. what's your take?

next up is the management side of things. i know from my research that ill need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator, but cant find one to save my life. at least not one listed for a GM TBI. also, i think ill eed a 2-bar map sensor, and some computer work to make it do ok. someone had mentioned that i can get away without it by running a boost referenced ignition retard, but that just doesnt sound right. so what are you guys doing?

again, the name of the game is cheap. im pnly looking for about 75 more horse out of this thing, and dont mind cutting, welding, or grinding. but i dont have the capability to burn my own chips or anything, and computers baffle me.

so please, help me out here. the motor will have a stock cam, ported and polished heads, port matched and slightly ported intake, port matched and slightly ported exhaust manifolds, 5.7 TBI, whatever injectors im toild to get, and 3 inch exhaust after the turbo.

thanks in advance
Michael

 

s10forum.com thats all i got to say

 

ive tried there, no help. ive tried pro-touring.com. no help. ive tried hotrodders.com, no help. this is more or less my last resort.

Michael

 

Than IMO you should stay away from boosting a 2.hate TBI. Learn how to tune N/A before you get any more complicated.

Did you find this in your search?
http://home.alltel.net/mcfly/s-series.htm

 

nope. i actually didnt find that at all. thanks for the link. most help ive gotten yet.

arent you over on PTs10 as well? never thought to ask over there...

i agree that the 2.hate wont live too long on boost. even conservative boost. but when i window the block, ill do a 3.4 swap and keep going. i just need more power for the challenge, or im going to be laughed at. well, more than i will already be for doing it in a 2.hate s10.

Michael

 

i have a boost referenced regulator on my truck as part of whipples kit. the regulator will not be fitted up to your tbi, it is an external unit. it goes on the return line coming off of the regulator, it just pinches that flow off so you get more fuel pressure even with the stock regulator left alone. its pretty simple really.

you wont need a 2 bar map sensor, i run 12 pounds of boost on a 1 bar map, the boost referenced fuel pressure regulator is were the magic happens, and you WILL need to tune your ecm, you can pay to have it done but itl cost you around 500$ at a dyno shop.

 

thanks.

so, grab a boost referenced FPR off e-bay that fits in the return line (saw them there for like 50 bucks), plumb the turbo in, and get the computer tuned. thats all there really is to the management side?

is there any way around the computer tuning, like a premade chip for X lbs of boost, or the boost retard igniotion like someone else suggested? i know it wont be optimized by any stretch of the inmagination, but i dont have the equipment or experience to burn my own. heck, this will be my first boosted project, too.

and i do know how to tune N/A stuff, only with carbs and electronic ignoitions. this is my first tuime messing fairly hard with EFI, except the tpi vette i built. and i had the dyno/computer guy completely screw that car up on me. its now carb'd.

thanks again foir all the help
Michael

 

man, i was like you a year ago, i had a smaller pulley and a biger throttle body and it threw my tune way off, i looked everywhere for a tune, the dyno shop quoted me 600 bucks. i bought all the stuff for 500 bucks to do it my self. im 17 years old, i am by no means a genius and im tuning my truck myself, it just takes some reading and you gota really want it, if you have no interest, youl never be able to pick it up.

theres simply no such thing as a premade tune for a custom application. and its even harder with a turbo. see, with a blower, generally you have x amount of boost for x amount of rpm, so thats basicaly why you can get away with a 1 bar map and a referenced regulator. on a turbo there are so many variables to how it spools, it takes a much higher level of tuning, since this is just a low budget project im sure you wills till be able to get away with the regulator and a 1 bar setup. when you get the truck tuned, make sure they have a wide band 02 sensor to check your air fuel ratio and are experienced with boosted applications, if they are a good shop with experience with forced induction, dont be surprised if they want 600$ to tune your truck, its just how it goes, they will probably play with your fuel pressure for you, heat ranges on the plugs, stuff like that, a good shop will pretty much take care of all the little headaces.

and make sure you go down a heat range on your spark plugs if your local dyno shop doesn't do a full job, just a tune.