Psh! Robert! The TPI is torque king! Plus, if he ever went HSR he'd already have all of the electrical and sensors.

 

I agree with Robert, TPI is just a sidestep IMO. TPI is the torque king to a certain extent, you can generate too much torque with that motor and spinning your tires is not a good way to get going on any level. Plus TPI generally revs out too early, around 4700rpm. Not saying TBI is much better, but a 6000rpm redline is far more appealing to me.

Now TPI used for towing, great idea.

 

Heres a picture of my car, figured it be nice to finally see the car that I'm wanting to work on. Also, I'm wanting to add that badge to the car.

 

...

 

UPDATE:

Made progress on learning how to tune. I've taken what I've learned from tuning the Motec we use in FSAE and began to apply it to my car. Now while I've not made any mods or anything, I have picked up TunerPro and using the def and bin files from the tuning sticky I have began to figure out what I need to do to tune the car. Now if I can get an EBL and a pair of WBL sensors, I'll be set to tune.

I'm in need of help finding a good cluster rebuilder. I want to keep the stock gauge cluster, but its getting to the point of needing to be rebuilt. Also, I'd like to what components are required for power steering cars. I know Flaming River makes great components, but I'm not sure what I need, so any help would be greatly appreciated in either field.

 

Damn nice car. Mine is almost identical; I have t-tops, some nice clear-coat peal and my wheels were plain but took the time to paint them black.

I understand completely with wanting to keep the 305 and deffinitly keep the TBI. When I bought my 89 (in Indy.) I was told the only mod was the open air element. But it also has a 3" cat back exhaust, and I am thinking it has a custom cam in it as well. Sounds like a boat and sure has a lot more power than my last Camaro did.

I am also in agreement that the 350 TPI is an excellent choice for an engine swap and would save you a lot of cash. Which is certainly important these days. Of course if you would do an engine swap an LS is a more likely choice.

So, although my plan was very similar to yours when I started I have decided that there was really only one thing I could do to make the best choice here. Keep the 89RS as is, buy an old roller, or Berlinetta and drop an LS1 in it, then go back and tweak the 89. I just couldnt decide between the two so I gotta have both. Gonna take a lot longer to do.

Good luck with your project.

Also, Camaro Performers Mag had an article a few years back about some quick mods you could use on a 305 that you could pull and use on a 350 if you ever did switch. Don't remember the month, if I come accross it I will let you know.

 

Thanks man.

I've got alot of time to get things figured out before I start working on the car. In the next 3 years I'll graduate college and get a job. First thing I'm doing is getting a 5th gen Camaro then parking my 89 to work on it.

First thing to happen is a complete strip and restore of the subframe & sheet metal and the addition of a SFC's and a new K-member to lay a solid foundation for the rest of project. From there, I'll go onto the suspension, then drivetrain (i.e. transmission and back), brakes, Interior & Exterior, then finish it up by doing a full 9 yards overhaul on the 305. In addition to heads, cam & exhaust, I'll be having alot of work done the block itself: bore & stroke to 335, decked, polished, magnafluxed. I know it won't be the most economical 305, but it'll be a really fun engine when I'm done with it.

I've pretty much made up my mind on what I'm going to do, not exactly sure what parts I'll need to do what I want though. My parts list has turned into this really great list, but I keep going back and tweaking it every so often as I learn new stuff. About the only thing that has remained constant on my list is the new EBL ECU.

 

Hey guys gotta real quick question:

Is there any difference between an 89 10-bolt and a 90 10-bolt?

 

Spline count. 89+ Got PBR rear brakes, 90+ got an upgraded name (7.5" to 7.625") and they're higher spline count on the axles.

 

Thanks.

Could I beef up an 89 10 bolt with 90 10 bolt parts?

 

Sure. You'd need to swap all of the guts though, so if the newer one works, it's probably better to just bolt it in. It'd be easier.

 

Thanks.

After reading the article about beefing up the 10-bolt, I got really interested in doing it because here in IN, driving the snow sucks with a wide open rear. I'm looking at a Powertrax locker, but wanted to know about the differences between an 89 and 90 so I didn't waste my money.

For final clarification: parts for a 7.625" 10-bolt will fit in a 7.5" 10-bolt and vice-versa, correct?

 

Yep. Just make sure your axle spline count matches your differential spline count.

 

Thank you so much. I think I may get started on my project a little earlier than I thought. An spring time axle rebuild would be a good birthday present indeed.

 

I wouldn't recommend the Powertrax unit, I have one and I hate it. It works great in a straight line but in turns and backing up it pops and clicks. I plan on getting a trutrac when the funds allow.

 

Thats strange, alot of people gave it good reviews and said the noise wasn't noticible until you stuck your head out the window.

Other than the noise, how have you liked your Powertrax? Also, what makes a Powertrax different from a Truetrac?

 

Like I said in a straight line it works well but if you back up with out pulling forward for a race get ready for a one tire fire followed by a big BANG. Ask me how I know lol. I feel like my cornering ability is GREATLY diminished with this thing. Going into a hard turn while applying the brake you can really feel the unit bind up, and if you're lucky you get treated to another bang or pop or"wiggle". I have the No-slip unit for clairity. From what I understand about the trutrac it's a gear type posi and it works extremely well while not being too overpriced.

 

Yeah that really doesn't sound so good. Do you know where to find the Zexel Torsen unit they mentioned in that article, it sounds very similar to a Trutrac.

 

I started out w/ the same exact mentality. I wanted it all original. After talking to some of the guys on here, the stock 305 700R4 project is now an LT1 5.7L, T56 project. lol I'm happy I chose the latter route.

 

Hey Robert,

Found some stuff about lockers that should be of great help.

Detroit TrueTrac:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml

TORSEN:
http://flashoffroad.com/features/Tor...rsen_works.htm
http://www.torsen.com/products/products.htm

Powertrax:
http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/noslip.html

Auburn:
http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarke...pe+Function%5D

 

So this is my first post, I'm new on here, i have come to the site a few times but never joined tll last week, ANYWAY it kinda sounds like you and I have somewhat of the same idea, I want to build my 305 also to be different and not "be like everybody else" I'm not looking to keep my car as stock feeling like you are, i just want a nice driver that comes out to play once in a while, im planning on the Jekll and hyde paint, and rim combo, but im still looking for more ideas, anywho, Just wanted to show my support to you, even if most people would say you are crazy to put that kind of money into your car. I say its your money, your car, do what you want, just like some of these guys who think what other people do is "ugly" or whatever and have to put in there 2 cents, I may not agree with what they did, but I'm not going to get upset with them, i just know i dont want that look for my car. Thats what this place is for, for people to show off what they got, some like stock, some like super modified with body kits and stuff. I like a mixture, but closer to stock than wild. But yeah, this turned long, but have fun and do what you want and make it yours.

 

*UPDATE*

Finally settled on a few things:

1.) I will be rebuilding the rear axle with 28 spline axles, a TruTrac and 3.23's

2.) After much research, I'll be dropping the Holley TBI and manifold for a ported 305 TBI core from CFM Tech that flows 620cfm and a Wieand single plane manifold. I'll be using the CFM Tech core as my base to build my new TBI using flow matched 350 61lb injectors with an AFPR.

I also have a few questions about somethings. And yes, I have already searched the forum to no avail for the answers.

1.) Is this a standalone WBL sensor (i.e. will I have to plug it into the ECU to get it to work)? http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/p...s/g2_gauge.php

2.) Will the EBL work with a 3 wire O2 sensor? http://marine-performance-parts.com/...gensensor.aspx

3.) Where can I find a pitman arm? I know that our cars came with one from reading the suspension sticky, but no one has said where to find one. I seem to remeber reading someone used the pitman arm out of an S10 with good results.

4.) I never got an answer to this the first time around: Will the USB version of the WinALDL Cable work with WinALDL?

 

Just grab a LS1 rear end, gets you POSI, disc brakes, and will let you use all the same rims the 4th gen guys use easily. I got mine from my friend with the aluminum driveshaft and the brakes for 200$, 3.42 gears.

If you need a bigger TBI unit, just get a 454, I got mine for 100$ with injectors and everything [never ended up using it]. Way cheaper and will flow a lot more then the 305/350 ones. You wont even need to bother with your throttle body for a long long time though. Im running a comp cam, 113 vette heads, 1.6 rocker arms, Edelbrock intake all through a totally stock 305 unit with stock 305 injectors. No issues, doesent run lean or anything, just had to add a little fuel pressure.

EBL works fine with a heated O2 sensor, the extra wires are just for heating it [I think]. Ive got one with EBL and no issues.

And try searching a little more Theres a ton of info on this site, most of your questions have been gone over before.

 

Hey Tim How hard was it to tune in the heads? I have a worked over set of ZZ4's and I'm planning on putting them on soon. What's the specs on your cam?

 

Once I cleaned my IAC the car fired right up on the stock tune.
Im still tuning it, trying to get it better. Its definitely alot faster then stock. The cam is a comp cams XFI268, they list all the specs on comp cams website for it. Tuning wasent very hard, the VE learning really helps, I did about 8 VE learn sessions. Then I looked at my VE tables in graph form on tunerpro and smoothed out all the bumps to make it smoother and that helped a ton. The hardest part is finding the best fuel pressure ive found.

If youve got the heads, no reason not to put them on.

 

...

 

For that price, I would do a LS1 swap along w/ restoring the body.

 

I'm just going to say what should've been said long ago. Dude your "dreams" are a joke, you come on a board asking for opinions for your big "dreams" and when knowledgable people who have been there, done that, tell you something you don't agree with you freak out. If the majority doesn't agree with your "dreams" then either change them or move on. Its your car, and your choice on what you do with it. Go ahead and waste your money, (not likely it'll happen anyway). When its done come back and show everyone what you did pat your self on your back and STFU!

We don't care.

Granted we are on this board to share our passion about cars each has his own likes and dislikes, but when a very inexperienced kid comes along and has all these grand ideas on what he's gonna do to his car and to many its a big list of "dreams" what do you expect to hear?
Anyone can thumb through a summit or jegs catalog and make a wish list.
The thing that sets few apart is actually making something from the sum of those parts.

Make your dreams a reality and come back when you are done, or quietly fade away like most "dreamers" do.

 

Well, you gotta start somewhere. I'm sure that all of us on here have had a dream build at one point in our lives. I'll most likely stick with something very close to this build. And I'm not freaking out about what others have told me. I said that I wanted to have a car that retained alot of the stock look and feel yet have much more modern performance and allow for some drag, Ax, and possibly the SSCC Touring class (95-110mph) while having great DD characteristics. And so far my list has the parts to do it. The engine is the only real up in the air item for me because there are just so many options to choose from: GMPP crate motors, GMPP Bowtie blocks, LSx crate motors, LSx Bowtie blocks. My options for engines are limitless. My main grip is that people think I know absolutely nothing about what I'm doing. Is it so hard to understand that I want a good all around fun to drive car that retains alot of the stock look and feel, but has much more modern performance? I know that I don't have the safety equipment to run in the faster classes of the SSCC, I know that a 334 ain't the best idea for a motor, I now that an LSx T56 swap will give more performance for less money, I know that I can scavenge alot of parts from 4th gens for my build to save money.

My build is not about having the fastest SSCC car, having the most logical motor choice, the most bang for the buck, or the cheapest parts list. This build is about doing something that very few ever get to do: fully restore and mod a car. I want to do as much of the work myself, experience the joys of success, the pain of failure, and the frustration of troubleshooting. That is my dream, the mods and work on the car just happen to be that pathway to reality. As for coming back on here to let you all know how it turned out, I'm hesitant to think this site will be around in 15-20 years time.

Well I can tell that you don't, and I can also tell that a great majority that have posted to this thread have the opinion/belief that I'm not too bright for what I'm thinking about doing. So why did you even comment on this thread?

Yes, I do agree with that. To each his own. I'll also agree that I'm very inexperienced. But as for what I expect from a forum of adults with experience: a far greater level of patience, civility, and maturity. Now I'm guilty of having problems with those traits as well, but at least give me solid reasons as to why option B is better than option A beyond its cheaper. If I'm having to ask others which is cheaper, I'm more screwed than I thought. Is it so much to ask why option B is cheaper and/or better than option A?

I totally agree. However, I'm in college for the next 3 years, and plan on spending at least 10 years working on my car. So it won't be anytime soon that I get to work on my car. I want to at least graduate college before I start working on my car. The advantage to that is that I get alot of time to research, learn, gain experience, and ultimately decide if this is something I want to do. Far easier to build a paper tiger than it is to try and sell it after you build it and find out you don't like it.

Will do. Hopefully this place is around in about 15 years.

 

*UPDATE*

The car just got totaled today. Some idiot lady rammed me going in reverse while not looking and destroyed the left fender and ruined the strut tower. Its fixable, but I can't afford to fix it now. How I hate it when people do a hit and run. This is my first accident ever too.

Heres some pics of the damage.

 

*UPDATE*

Well after 3 weeks in the body shop, my car still ain't fully repaired. The guys at the body shop are doing great work, but they haven't had the time to get much done on my car (they work primarily on wrecked cars where people have rentals). The fender, rocker panel, left strut, left wheel well, and the steering were all ruined in the wreck. The primary problem the shop has had is finding parts for my car. I should have it back this week.

I also finally got the ability to edit all my posts in this thread. My OP from now on will be the file update spot.

 

Well guys, its been a year since I started this thread and now I'm begining to reach an impass. I spent the last year as part of Purdue's FSAE team and I've learned a ton about cars, performance, fabrication, machining, and much more.

The impass I have reach is in relation to tunability and fuel economy. While a 334tbi would meet my HP & TQ goals, it would be a bitch to tune and get decent fuel economy out of. However, I've found it much cheaper to reach my power goals as well as tunability and fuel economy with an LS2. An LS2 would also mean a T56 swap as well as a newer rear end. I had originally thought of an LS7, but once I found I could get 427 out of an LS2, I decided to stick with the LS2.

I need a good argument for and against each path since I'm stuck with myself: 334tbi with a 700R4 or ROD 6 speed OR the LS2 T56 swap.

Hopefully, this year I can get a concrete plan ready so I can start preping for the project during my senior year at Purdue.
__________________

 

You do know a T56 can be used on a regular small block chevy? You just need to use the LT1 style.
Also, I dont really see an LS2 being much easier to tune.
Just go with whatever you can afford, either get a 350, 355, 383 or something along those lines, or go with an LS2. The small block would be easier then the LS series swap. If you know what youre doing, you can get around the same fuel economy out of a fuel injected small block as you could an LS.
An LS motor uses the same length driveshaft and has nothing different in the rear end compared to a small block [in an f body]. Im using a rear/driveshaft pulled from a 2001 Trans Am in my firebird and it hasent given me any issues.

 

Thanks for the info Timothy. I wasn't quite sure about the T56 for SBC, that is definitely helpful info. The only reason the ROD 6 speed is being considered is that it is a single OD tranny that has a much closer gearing than the T56 and the OD has the same gear ratio as the 2nd OD in the T56: .62:1.

*UPDATE*

After a year of getting a really good idea of where I want to take this project 2 things have happened: A) I'm going to start taking the plunge this August with a few mods & B) I now have a definite direction I want to take this project.

Starting with A, the mods I want to do this fall are either a set of OE replacement rotors from Baer and calipers from Stainless Steel Brakes or Bilstein struts & shocks, Moog strut mounts, springs/or Eibach Pro Kit.

The calipers & rotors would be much better than the stock stuff that I have and allow me to keep the stock wheel and tire package till I can afford the wheels & tires I want. The struts/shocks, mounts and springs would be a definite upgrade because all those items that are on the car currently are original to the day it was bought in 89. I would be having my mechanic install either one of these mods as tools and time would both be sparing with the semester starting in August. Calipers and rotors would run $750ish for the parts and struts/shocks & springs would be closer to $1150ish. I imagine for labor and what not I can expect to add about $200ish to those amounts, but I will find out before I buy the items. All this is contingent on how much I have saved from my internship this summer after I pay bills and buy stuff for the semester, but it is a very strong possibility for either mod.

And now for B, Pro-Touring, that is where I want to go with this project. After finding Camaro Performers on the shelf one day and reading it and seeing all the nice PT Camaro's in there, thats what I decided I want to end up with: stock looking, modern performing, luxurious interior.

One quick question about the Bilstein/Eibach combo. Would the struts/shocks be damaged by a 1" drop seeing as how they were designed for stock ride height? I've looked at stock height Moogs that are stiffer than stock, but was curious. Also, would a tire on an 8" wide wheel clear with a 1"drop? Diameter would be same as the stock tire, 26".

Thanks for the input in advance!

 

So you went to school and learned about cars...... but your going to pay to have someone put your brakes and shocks/struts on?
Also a 1in drop wont do anything to the bilstein's, if you REALLY want to make sure, then throw bilstein an email or call them and ask.

Not sure about the tires, take some measurements? Do a search on here?

 

Dont really understand why you would spend that money for stock tiny rubish brakes. Or do you have the optional 1LE performance package?

Ed miller has some better affordable options, 1LE front kit for exemple would be little more then the rubish brakes you are considering.

http://www.flynbye.com/

 

You also keep saying EFI.......TBI is EFI.......

 

Its not that I can't do it, hell I've bled brakes and put shocks on cars before, I don't have the tools or the time to do it. This car is my daily driver, so I can't really afford loads of downtime while I work on it.

I kinda figured that the 1" drop wouldn't hurt, I know the dimensions of the tire, so I guess I just have to look around a bit.

I have the 15x6 wheel and no one out there makes anything that will fit under a 15" wheel. I can't justify $700ish for new wheels and tires just to get new brakes when the 17x8 wheels and tires I want are going to cost at least $2000. And what I'm looking at aint rubbish: drilled, slotted, vented, zinc washed rotors and 2 piston aluminum calipers with ceramic metallic pads. Much better than the solid rotors and single piston calipers that came stock on the car.

I'll have to call and make sure about that 1LE kit, but it looks promising.

I've known that for the last 8 years

 

Sorry I thought all camaros came with 16" weels.

Drilling and slotting such little rotors will make the even more rubbish, I have experienced them on a 92 Z28 and they suck bad. The 2 piston calipper though may bring the braking back to stock level.

 

No problem, Ed's 1LE package should fit under my wheel, but I'll have to call and verify that.

I've asked quite a few ME's about drilling and slotting rotors and what I've been told is that for daily driving you don't need it, but that it helps dissipate heat and gases generated by braking. I can certainly understand why it would perform worse, due to less rotor surface area, but I'm pretty certain that its the surface area of the pad that makes the difference. And with small calipers you'll have small pads. So its a bit of a win-lose item, you get better rotors, but the pads are still too small to help.

 

*UPDATE*

Well, I had some unforseen expenses come up for college, so those planned mods will have to wait till I can afford to do them. Hopefully that is sometime next summer.

But, if there is bad news there is good as well, I finally started to get my project cost to go down instead of up. In fact, I'm about $3k under where I was in the planning stage this time last year and the parts selection is 10 times better than it was this time last year.

Alot of this has to do with having just read Dave Vizards SBC on a Budget book. It allowed me to get the cost of building my 305 (now aiming for a 310) down to almost $11k and thats including the nuts, bolts & gaskets. I've just about decided to do away with TBI and not because it can't be made to make power, but because at my HP goals it'd pretty much take $2k to build a TBI system for 400hp and at that point TBI is almost maxed out. Whereas a Holley 4150HP 750cfm carb is just getting started at 400hp. This way, I have a dirt simple to work on induction system.

Unless I run into major rust on my car, I should be able to take car of the rust my self without need of new metal parts. I'm pretty sure I can also fab up my own SFC's & STB, but I'll need to do a little more reading to be sure.

And I finally figured out how to get "accurate" results out of Desktop Dyno. The 310 with the Holley, dual plane manifold, and Trickflow heads puts out 395fwhp and 375fwtq. I looked at building my own 427 and it came out to 537fwhp and 490fwtq. Not bad, but at $3200 more than a 310, its alittle too far out for what I want to do.

I hate college because I can't work on my car right now, but at the same time I love it because I get to avoid buyers remorse.

 

427. When you're talking twelve-thousand dollars to build a 400HP Maxed out 310, or 15 thousand to build a 540 HP MILD 427....

For the first 12k, you're going from 200 to 400 HP. 200 HP / $12000 is about $60/HP. 140/3000 = $20/HP. For that last $3k, you'd be cutting your cost per horsepower down to $20. It'd also bring your overall to $44/HP.

 

Yep, I looked at that price metric as well. For the 427 is was a total cost of $14,300. Its $26.63/HP and $29.18/TQ whereas the 310 was $27.98/HP and $29.47/TQ.

Believe me, I understand that the 427 has gobs of room left and if I can figure out how to do a manual 427 for about $40k with tooling, I'll go for it. Check my spreadsheet out, it has alot of good data and math on pricing parts.

Now its the cost cutting stage to get the best value for the money before I start the project.

 

If I were you I would get your car fixed up and leave it stock-ish until you get through school. A running 170hp is better than a theoretical 500hp. No financial magic occurs when you graduate school. You will become part of the working force of America paying your rising bills and taxes and putting more and more money into a vehicle made by Fidelity. I made the mistake of making big plans for my car when I graduated. I started before I finished school and that’s when the pain began. I had a perfectly good RS, and a 95' Lt1 car. Life was good and I thought that it would only get better. Well, 10 years and two college degrees later I don't have the LT1 car anymore and the RS is on blocks waiting for me to scrap some funds together to get it to run with a stock-ish set-up. If the car runs, enjoy it now and mod it as you go. $40k in plans for your 3rd gen will never happen. You will understand later. I don't mean to be a buzz kill, and please keep the dream alive for both of us, but lots of posts in this thread are based on magazine builds and not reality. As for buying a 5th gen as a DD, that is what I would focus on. Out of all the combos thrown around in this thread that one is the only believable one. If you have $40k in cash, after your graduate, to put into your 3rd gen RS, you won't really be worrying about your car budget. Plus, in four years from now, something cooler will change your mind. Just ask the LT1 I have sitting in an engine stand that I bought 6 years ago. Ha.

 

*Threadnecromancer*

Shifty, that is some sage advice. I realize that this project won't happen overnight, but I am trying to reel in the cost and I think I may have got it figured out.

After reading through this thread, I'm glad I've not gone out and bought things for my car as I read about them. Thank God that discretion is the better part of valor or I'd be in buyers remorse after what I've learned over the time I've been here on TGO.

After trying to figure out a way to make it cost effective to work on the 305, I've just given up. I can't make it as powerful as I would like and for the money I could have a turnkey ZZ4 350 and be significantly into an LS3 E-Rod. After figuring this out, I decided to look into other engines and came to a fork in the road. For $7k I can get a turnkey ZZ4 and everything needed to get it running. Or for $9500, I can get a turnkey, emission legal, LS3 E-rod and never have to worry about upgrading ever again. I just recently learned that a 700R4 would bolt to an LS engine with only the need for a flexplate and adapter for LS engines to bolt to older transmissions.

After much drivetrain research, I found out that I could buy a rebuild kit for my 700R4 and make it beefy enough for anything I could think of, however; I can't say the same for the 10-bolt rear. Apparently, on a Gen I SBC, a built 10-bolt is good to about 450hp, but when a stock LS1 is in the mix, the built 10-bolt is living on borrowed time. With that in mind, I went looking for the cheapest strongest rear possible and found the Dana S60 rear at Spohn.

I don't know why I never thought of this earlier, but for some reason I've been a Baer fanboy and that blinded me to the fact that Wilwood actually offered damn near the same thing for half the cost. Four piston caliper brakes on each corner, integrated parking brake into the rear rotor hat, and savings of 35lbs per corner (according to Wilwood) for half of what Baer is asking.

My crazy thoughts for the interior are done for. Nothing like a pair of Corbeau seats and 4-point harnesses to make things safer. Also, no more super fancy tech like hydraulic brake boosters and custom one off steering boxes. Also, I'll be trying to rebuild and reuse as many things as I can like the stock A-arms.

I've truly slashed the cost of my planned restore. Right now, its $19250 for the entire list of mods and a ZZ4 engine (stock K-member will be used with ZZ4). The LS3 with the list of mods is $23500.

As it stands, I'm torn between the LS3 and the ZZ4. The ZZ4 is cheaper, but its not emissions legal, and its a carb which could prove problematic during autocross. The LS3 is more expensive, but its emissions legal and wouldn't have any fueling problems for autocross.

Any input is appreciated. As always, the OP has been updated. And yes I realize this thread is quite old.

I ask that mods move this thread if they feel it is warranted. Thanks.

 

*UPDATE*

Well, 18 months have gone by since I last visited this thread. Much has changed since then as I both learned and prioritized where I wanted to spend my money. Found out that I'm going to need both floor pans replaced and am going ahead and doing so. For rusty pics, please see the link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ace-floor.html

Since I studied construction management, I figured I'd do some value engineering here (least cost most performance alternates). I finally figured out that power only does so much for AX/RR and the rest is left up to the suspension & tires. That area has become the focus of my budget dollars. The next area of focus is frontal weight, so some money has been budgeted to shave down the weight on the nose. Next was the transmission & rearend as they get the wheels moving, so there was a ton of research in that area and I found that the 5 key points were the torque converter, valve body, clutch pack, differential, and rear gears. Brakes, since I'm using a 17" wheel, will be 13" on all corners for a balanced system. Baer Track 4's up front & Hawks Disc Conversion kit in the rear. And I finally came back around to the keeping the 305 with TBI. Just going to have it rebuilt and invest in a good topside (TBI, Intake, heads, cam, exhaust) for it as even 330 FWHP, as estimated by Desktop Dyno, will be more than plenty for me. Real world I'd be ecstatic if I made 300 FWHP.

I aimed to get a much more balanced car overall with more focus on AX/RR and think that I'm finally starting to get the list heading in the right direction. All my previous lists were just a hodge podge of great parts that really didn't work together for my intended purpose. I hope all goes well with the floor pans and next few years so I can start to see this project get off the ground.

I've updated my OP, but for those who'd like to see the current version of the list right here, its attached.

 

***UPDATE***

The project finally began!!! However; this is not a fast moving project as the car is 2.5hrs at my parents place. So whenever I make a weekend trip, that's when something will get done.

But, the important part is that it started. My dad and I started by stripping off the EGR. For now, I'll plug the holes in case I need to move the car.

 

thats a great way to put it , ive been building and still am building my 89 305TBI from the ground up and love hearing about how i love to dump money into my car instead of buying a new one