bigEZ91RS

First of all, I would like to thank everyone here for the amount I have learned from reading this site over the past few years. You guys are great. Anyways, down to business. I am building a 350 to replace the L03 that is in my '91 RS in front a 700R4 trans. The thing is, I have never built a motor before. I have worked as a machine builder for 3 years, and currently work as a designer at an engineering company. I have also done my fair share of wrenching on cars, so my mechanical abilities are pretty good, I just don't have any experience with building engines. I have done a ton of research and put together a bill of materials for the build-up. it is attached as a .pdf file. Please let me know what you guys think of this combo, and if you see something that could be a problem, let me know. Items highlighted in green are things that i already have. The car is daily driven six months of the year, doesn't need to pass emissions (live in Michigan), and will see limited track time just to see what its got.

I plan on fueling it with a rochester 454 tbi unit with 90# injectors, and tuning it myself with the help of EBL.

What do you guys think about the heads? cam? intake? The credit card is coming out soon so let me know!

I appreciate the help,

-Erik

bigEZ91RS

Here's a picture of my baby...

90c350

Its looks like a Pretty nice build that you will have there!!! Should run real good and You didnt go overboard with the cam. I would think that you should be around 375/400hp and probably around 400/425flb's as a guess that is. Very nice combo for the Street. You will need to do some tuning for sure and You will probably have to run a fairly high fuel pressure to feed it but it should be Fun. Good luck and keep us updated!!

bigEZ91RS

It looks like I will have to run around 25 psi of fuel pressure. assumptions:

• motor will put out approx. 400hp
• injector static flow rate of 81 lb/hr (part # 5235231-ACR)
• 85% injector duty cycle
• .50 BSFC

Do you guys think the motor will idle ok running this fuel pressure with these bigger injectors? Or will the necessary pulsewidth be too small, necessitating a vacuum referenced AFPR?


I am going to start installing the rotating assembly into the block this weekend. This Eagle street performance kit looks nice! I'll be sure to post some pics

Shadowman

Very nice car man. I just have one question. I heard on a mustang forum one time that the Hypereutectic pistons are garbage and that when building an engine, you should stick with forged steel. Is this true? And if so, why? Sorry for my ignorance but I only know the basics about an engine. Like where the dip stick is.

bigEZ91RS

Well, forged pistons are stronger than hypereutectic, but it's my understanding that forged are only necessary if running forced induction or nitrous. Hypereutectic pistons are actually a step up from stock cast pistons due to a higher silicon content added to the aluminum alloy during casting. They are able to handle higher rpm and cylinder pressures than stock pieces.

bigEZ91RS

Anyways, I was able to get to the shop and make some progress this weekend.

Before...

bigEZ91RS

It took me some time (many assembly breaks to read instructions over and over again), but i got it put together. I made sure to lube everything really well and checked all the bearing tolerances with plastigauge and crank endplay with a dial indicator. Everything checked out alright. I screwed a bolt into the end of the crank and put a torque wrench on it once it was all assembled. It turned over using only 24 lb/ft.

One thing I'm a little unclear about is how the 1 peice rear main seal goes on. The assembly manual I have is for SBC's up to 1986 (2-peice). Does anybody have a recommendation of a manual for '87 and newer hydraulic roller blocks?

I'm going to be ordering the oil pump and it's components soon, and possibly the cam, lifters, and timing set...unless you guys can talk me out of getting the comp cams 268 XFI, that's what will be going into this motor.

-Erik

boogie

The rear main seal fits into an aluminum housing/adaptor that is fastened to the back of the block by three bolts and one stud/nut. A gasket goes between the adaptor and block.Looks like you will need to take the short block off your stand to install it due to the tight space.

Install the seal into the housing by using a board that is as wide or wider than the OD of the seal to prevent distortion. A vise works well to press it in. Now install the adaptor/housing with seal and gasket installed over the prelubed crank and slide all the way up over the dowel until its flush with the block. Install fasteners and your done!

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

how much did that eagle kit cost? I've got a 350 880 block just itching for some new internals.

bigEZ91RS

It is an Eagle street performance rotating assembly. Cost me $661 including shipping from jegs.com. It includes everything you see in the picture above except for the main caps. More details can be found athttp://www.eaglerod.com/products/Che...ssemblies.html

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I ran 80 LBS injectors at 22 lbs FP. Needed to run OL idle. Idle was at 800-850 rpms. The idle "looked-smelled" lean at ext pipe. Ideally you would want to run VAFPR which EBL supports nicely.

bigEZ91RS

So I called comp cams yesterday and they recommended the 260xfi cam. When I talked to them a month ago, a different guy recommended the 268xfi. Now I'm torn between the two.

268xfi:
camshaft type: hydraulic roller
basic rpm range: 1800-5800
duration @.050: 218/224
advertised duration: 268/276
valve lift: .570/.565
LSA: 113*

260xfi:
camshaft type: hyrdraulic roller
basic rpm range: 1200-5200
duration @.050: 210/218
advertised duration: 260/270
valve lift: .560/.555
LSA: 113*

keep in mind that these lifts are measure with 1.6 rockers. If I go with the 268, I wll probably go with comps 1.52 roller rockers.

If I go with the 260xfi, I will be gaining more low end torque at the expense of upper rpm horsepower. I'm thinking I will have enough traction problems as is with the 268, so going with the 260 will just make me spin the tires more, plus lose the high rpm horsepower. What are your opinions?

Will I run into any vacuum related problems with the 268, such as not having enough for power brakes, cruise control, hvac, etc? Will the 268 be considerably harder to tune, even though I am going with EBL flash?

Your advice is appreciated.

-Erik

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I run a 224/230 @ .05 hyd flat tappet(non-roller). I recall the power band is like 2000-5800 rpms. My intake rated to 6000 rpms. My heads to 6500 rpms. The car will cruise nicely at 2000 rpms at about 72 mph. I can also cruise at 55 mph in overdrive(5th) if I need to. I would opt for larger of the two. my prior cam was rated to 5100 rpms and ran out of steam at 5100 on dyno so i swapped in a bigger one and lost a little TQ down low but still OK.

bigEZ91RS

Hey guys, I haven't been getting much done with the motor lately since i've been swamped at work, but here's a little update with what's going on. I received a big shipment of parts yesterday from summit...

• edelbrock e-tec 170 heads
• edelbrock rpm air-gap manifold (vortec style)
• edelbrock performer timing chain set
• comp cams 268 xfi
• comp cams 1.6 roller tipped rockers
• comp cams pro magnum hydraulic roller lifters
• comp cams lifter installation kit
• comp cams pushrod length checker
• GM head gaskets (.028 compressed height)
• edelbrock intake gaskets
• ARP head bolt and intake bolt sets
• Aeromotive 13301 VAFPR
• Melling M55 oil pump, M55-S1 pick up, IS-55E drive shaft
• Mr. Gasket #26 oil pressure spring
• Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mounts
• Champion RC12YC spark plugs (back-ordered)

I put the 454 TBI unit on top of the intake for the picture just for looks.

Things I still need to order:

• Hooker 2055 headers and y-pipe (will cut and weld A.I.R tubes, then send for jet-hot coating)
• Innovate LC-1 wideband 02
• EBL flash
• Summit harmonic balancer #161358
• Ignition upgrades???? help me out

I can't wait to get this motor all put together and installed. It's gonna scream. Hopefully I can find some time this weekend to get some work done.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

Anyone want to comment on the "airgap" manifold? It will be diificult to tune for AE. I would have chosen a single plane. I think a Vortec Edelbrock Victor Jr would be my first choice.

bigEZ91RS

Ronny, thanks for the heads up on the airgap manifold. Even though I will be tuning with EBL and a wideband O2, I don't think I should be using a hard to tune manifold since this will be my first time with DIY tuning. About the victor jr. intake though, I have some concern about it taking away too much of my low end. It's rated for 3,500-7,000 rpm range. I know that this rating is with a carb, but how much better is it with TBI? Please keep in mind that this motor will be going in a daily driven vehicle.
If I went with a performer RPM instead of the airgap, is there much of a difference tuning AE, or will I run into the same problem?
Will it really be that difficult to tune AE even with EBL with an IAT sensor?

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I personally would run a vortec single plane. BUT if you want a dual plane the non airgap stock replacement unit would be a better choice. I see you are in Michigan. You want to get some heat in manifold plenum on a cool day. I believe your heads flow to 6500 rpms. the cam you chose I think is rated to 5800 rpms. so you want to make sure the manifold is rated to 5800 as well. I believe the performer rpm is OK to 6000. That should be good. Is it available in Vortec?

bigEZ91RS

Yea, performer RPM is available in vortec:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

Ronny, have you run the victor jr. before? If so, what parts combo did you run it on?

I only drive the car from may until october, so it won't see too many cold days. I know the airgap manifold is probably the worst for plenum heat, but is there any difference between the rpm and victor jr. in this category? If later on I feel like more heat is necessary, is there anything I can do to change this?

sorry for all the questions, I'm just new to all of this. Your advice is appreciated.

-Erik

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I have currently a Holley Projection TBI Manifold(6500 rpms) Comp 224/230 @.05 (5800) and a 64 cc Edel RPM alum head(6000+), 7.4L TBI with 80 # inj.

I ran a weiand single plane(7000) with XRam and 2.00 TB's with 80# for 2 seasons B4 the above. With TBI I dont think you would lose all that much with a single plane. Vic JR is not the big boy single plane. BUT Performer RPM I think is a good choice as well. I do however have a stick. Maybe someone can chime in to offer more info. With TBI a vac signal is not as necessary as it is with carb as injs require none. Anyone?

alvanwie

First off, I think your set up should not require OL idle. I have a somewhat similar set up and it idles well in closed loop. Did require quite a bit of tuning to get the idle right, but it works well.

As for AE, I think it is the hardest part of tuning to get right. Maybe ebl makes it easier. I am running 8746 ecu and it was definitely a problem. I am running a GMPP carb manifold with the 454 adaptor and 454 tbi. I guess I can only say a heated dual plane is not going to ensure an easy tune.

As for vacuum not being important for tbi, I definitely disagree for any speed density system. Since map readings are used basically to determine load, map directly effects both spark and fueling. The smaller the range of map readings the less resolution you get in spark and fueling control. Does not really matter for wot but definitely can effect driveability.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

With TBI a vac signal is not as necessary as it is with carb as injs require none. Anyone?

My comment is in regards to idle and idle in OL. I dont think MAP sensor is used OL idle? Once I come off idle and clutch engages engine loads RPM climb a bit it flips to CL and manifold vac is adequate(114LSA).

Now a question I asked a bit back about dual plane is this. In synch mode injs alternate firing. With a dual plane design how can we know the injector that is over what plane is the one that is firing? Is it important ? Maybe not. A single plane would make no difference as manifold plenum is common and open to both injs.

Uglybronco

iTrader: (2)

Wow Ronny I don't know where you get your info from but a TB works much like a carb as far as how the fuel is mixed in with the air After the TB & before it travels through the intake. So an intake designed for an RPM range for a carb would act the same with the TB. With a multiport system it would be different.

As for what alvanwie was saying about the system needing vacuum, the MAP sensor (which reads vacuum) acts as a replacement for the way a carb reads a vac signal... Without that reading properly the computer is a bit lost. & I don't see a need for heat in the intake.. That's the whole reason they made the air gap manifolds.

So for BigEZ, run that RPM air gap. Get a stupid big cam. Tune it the best you can with the EBL. If EBL will support mass air I would look into that (does anybody know if it does? I've been meaning to ask about that.) Shift the thing to neutral at stop lights. Leave big black marks everywhere you go. :-)

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest the AirGap is OK for a warm climate. Not for a cold climate(Michigan/Wisconsin). A cold plenum will cause the atomized fuel to drop out of suspension. Add to that the lesser vac signal from a larger cam, larger intake runners, or the throttle plate opening causing a sudden drop in Vac will add to the fuel dropping out of suspension.

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

I don't know where you're getting your information, but it certainly isn't correct and I know Ronny has been tuning in combos for quite some time now working with quite a few ECM options whereas I can guarantee you haven't tuned a TBI combo's ECM.

The ratings on manifolds do not match directly to a TBI situation, the lower end would be dropped down. How much it drops may vary, so I really just disregard those ratings completely. TBI is fuel injection it is not like a carb, Ronny was saying that at idle a carb requires a vac signal for fueling, which is why some combos are difficult to tune at idle. TBI does not have this problem, it requires no set vac signal, the ECM can inject however much fuel you tell it to inject. This is why my 305 sounds stock and idles at 650RPM with a ZZ4 cam.

As for the Air gap, I've heard too many stories about people's throttle blades icing over and idle routines being a bear to tune because the manifold is too cold. Stick with a non airgap dual plane or single plane. Single planes have been proven to work very well because, again, TBI doesn't need a vac signal to deliver fuel at idle, so the lower end can still be decent with a single plane manifold. I still say you can't go wrong with a Performer RPM.

EBL does not support mass air, nor do any other TBI ECMs except the later PCM that dimented24x7 hacked and wrote his own MAF code.

You could have a really great, strong motor with your combo, I like the etec 170s a lot, don't go nuts on the cam or you'll be kicking yourself. Personally, I'd go somewhere in the range of the LT4 Hot Cam. Tuning is the key though to any buildup, a good tune will get a strong 350 running just as good as your stock 305 did driveability-wise and have a ton more power.

alvanwie

The point is that a stable map reading (ie stable vacuum) is in fact required for tbi even in open loop (only the o2 sensor is not used). If the map reading varies too much so will your fuel delivery and timing.... end result idle will fluctuate.

Now say you are using a really nasty cam with lots of overlap and idle with a map reading of 70kpa That means your useable range for normal driving is from 70-100kpa. This makes it very difficult for a stock ecm to be able to make the proper corrections when it was designed to have a useable map reading for normal driving of about 30-100kpa. So the fact is that tbi with very little vacuum at idle will be difficult to tune and will have driveability issues.

Now, the cams being talked about here are not in that class. The zz4 is very mild (very little overlap) and the 268 is also fairly mild and will be more difficult to tune but still very tuneable with tbi.

Uglybronco

iTrader: (2)

Yea, you must be right. I am an idiot, the principles of airflow, atomization of fuel and velocity (which equal cylinder filling efficiency) at a certain range of port size, cubic inch displacement and RPM are completely thrown out the window just because the fuel is squirted in electronically (based on a computer's inputs from the engine) at a higher pressure versus a carb reading a signal through a venturi. I said after the TB. As in once the fuel is mixed with the flowing air it should flow through the intake the same at a given RPM.

And if your manifold or throttle blades are seriously icing over, Wow... I love where I live.
And you're right, I have not personally tuned a TBI combo, so sorry if there's some voodoo magic that I don't understand because of that. Please educate me as I like to know as much as I can. But I want facts & evidence.

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, been gone for a while. I'm not callin you an idiot either, but I am saying that throwing a big cam at a motor almost never is the right choice. You can tune in big cams it just takes a lot of effort, that's why I was saying to keep it relatively reasonable sized. You can overcome a lot of the idle fluctuations just by flattening out your fuel/timing curves at all areas around idle so it may change MAP and RPM but the amount of fuel and timing does not change.

Now, for intakes, maybe I didn't state what I was saying clearly enough. I agree with you that, for the most part, the fuel and air will act identical whether it is TBI injecting it or Carb shooting it in, AFTER the throttle blades. Before the throttle blades, so to speak, is where the difference lies. Let's say for example you have a big plenum single plane intake manifold. Now, with a carb this manifold, along with a decent sized cam, is not going to provide a strong vacuum signal to the Carb to draw in the correct amount of air/fuel. This is why your mixture will not be ideal below the low number on the manifolds ranking (eg. 3000-6000)

Now, TBI on the other hand, will not have this problem, now of course, a big single plane manifold is going to be a bit more difficult to tune and not as responsive as a smaller dual plane could be, but it can be tuned. The TBI computer will take the MAP reading and RPM and use the fuel and timing specified in the ECM tables at that point. These readings may fluctuate a little down low like alvanwie was saying, but that's when you simply flatten the entire range to be the same value. This is why the TBI can overcome some of the problems a carb may experience, because you can really fine tune it and tell it exactly how much fuel to inject and how much timing advance to use. Whereas with a carb down low you have to simply rely on the vacuum reading which may fluctuate and change the fueling.

I hope that came across a little clearer. I believe my engine idles somewhree around 50kPa and fluctuates between about 4-6 cells on the fuel table, but since they all hold the same value, the fueling never actually changes.

As far as icing, I haven't personally had it happen, because I run a dual plane, and not a really hot combo, but I know there have been quite a few people that have posted that problem, I believe "va454ss" was one of the main ones I can remember.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

May be off subject but I have had some experiences with racing 2 strokes. Porting of the cylinders, adding race pipes, rejet and here is the kicker running instead of a 36 stock mm venturi go the the big dog Mikuni carb at 44 mm. Vac signal is all but gone at idle. Wont idle worth a dam. End up using a spray bottle in carb to get it fired up. Now with advent of EFI in 1992 same engine 44 mm TB's speed density ECU issue is diminished. Open loop(no 02 sensor) runs off fuel tables.

bigEZ91RS

Well, I made some progress over the weekend. I installed the cam, timing chain, lifters, and cylinder heads. I tried to measure what size pushrods I need, but I purchased the wrong pushrod length checker (need longer tool).

Anyways, I've decided to to go with the performer RPM dual plane manifold. I considered using a single plane, but then my brain started functioning...I plan on using a VAFPR (aeromotive 13301) to improve my idle quality and still be able to fuel at WOT. If I lose my vacuum at idle, it makes using this regulator a waste of time. I'm not arguing that single plane intakes don't work great with TBI, I just don't think it would be a good match for my particular application

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

Good choice, I think. That motor is going to be very strong. I don't think a bigger manifold would defeat the purpose of the vrfpr but I would assume its range of pressure would decrease. But you don't need a bigger manifold for that combo the RPM will be almost ideal.

What size injectors are you going with? Now you just have to calculate what kind of WOT pressure you're going to run with, don't undershoot it, make the calc, then step up a little over that and set it. Otherwise, you'll be mad when you do a bunch of tuning and realize you're out of fuel at high RPMs and have to raise pressure and it screws up your whole tune. I've been there before.

bigEZ91RS

I'm not positive what my injectors flow. I've done a lot of research and found conflicting info. Some say 90 lb/hr, some say 80, some 81. Can anyone clarify? Also, what psi are these ratings measured at? I know stock fuel pressure is somewhere between 9-13 psi, but there must have been a specific rate used to measure injectors. 11 psi? 12?

I'm not sure how much range in fuel pressure I will see between idle and WOT with the VAFPR. Aeromotive claims a 1:1 boost/vacuum rise ratio. I'm assuming this raio is for psi, but manifold vacuum is measure with in/hg. Anyone know the conversion rate between the two? Also, if anyone could estimate how much vacuum i would make at idle vs. wot that would be great.

-Erik

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

12 lbs for GM on typical TBI injectors.Atypical being the 95-96 7.4L injs.
I think I have 350 hp at engine and run 80 lbs at 19 lbs FP. I would set Reg at that and check out your duty cycle and A/F at WOT. Hopefully you can find a safe place to run WOT. 100 mph comes up quickly for me.

as far as VAFPR see this table:

Cyl: CI: Fuel PSI: Inj #/hr: # Inj: rr, V 1.0
8 350 20 80 2

Cyl: Number of cylinders
CI: Cubic inch displacement
Fuel PSI: Fuel pressure with vac line disconnected and engine running
Inj #/hr: Single injector flow rate in lbs per hour
# Inj: Total number of injectors

Standard BPC table: 'BPC - BPC vs VAC'

VAC BPC PSI, fuel Gms/Sec #/HR Cyl/Vol L:
0 84 20 12.50270125 99.2 0.7170625
5 85 19.3 12.28195524 97.5
10 87 18.5 12.02471301 95.4 Factor:
15 89 17.8 11.79502477 93.6 1461.5
20 91 17.1 11.560774 91.8
25 93 16.4 11.32167751 89.9 Approximate
30 95 15.6 11.04208676 87.6 HP
35 97 14.9 10.79150435 85.6 Supported:
40 99 14.2 10.53496333 83.6 375
45 102 13.5 10.27201725 81.5
50 105 12.7 9.963013446 79.1
55 108 12 9.684550742 76.9
60 112 11.3 9.397840669 74.6
65 115 10.6 9.102103899 72.2
70 120 9.8 8.751890873 69.5
75 124 9.1 8.433533067 66.9
80 129 8.4 8.102676481 64.3

I can email you the Excel calculator

bigEZ91RS

Ronny, PM'd you my email address

bigEZ91RS

OK guys, I think I have all the components I need figured out except for the ignition system. Is there anything wrong with just giving the stock system a full tuneup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor). Or do I need to upgrade it with something like a 6AL box and a blaster coil? My stock system has always done a great job with my L03, i'm just not sure if it can keep up with the power of the new motor and spinning it to 6000+ rpm.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I used an in cap stock replacement accel super coil. 40,000V. Petronix says their stock replace unit is 50,000V. I also repl the module with Accel super module. OK for me to 6000 rpms.

bigEZ91RS

I measured the length of pushrods I need. Edelbrock says to use .100" longer than stock pushrods with the e-tecs, and this ended up being true. I ordered the pushrods along with some other parts:

• comp cams magnum pushrods 7.300" length
• Performer RPM vortec intake manifold
• stewart stage 1 water pump
• felpro oil pan gasket
• innovate LC-1 wideband O2
• powermaster 9100 mini-starter
• Summit 8 in. Harmonic balancer
• summit 0-30 psi fuel pressure gauge
• Hooker 2055 headers & y-pipe

I will be cutting the A.I.R tubes off of the headers, then sending them out for jet-hot coating. I also need to weld in the WBO2 bung before sending them out for coating. Where is the best place to weld the bung in??

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

My first location was just behind the collector in my long tube headers. Life span on sensors(2) was like 4 months. I called Innovate and they suggested they do not like a lot of heat and that I move it back??? I did so 18 inches to just in front of rear axle. That sensor lasted all season (April-Dec1). So I would suggest at least 12 inches behind collector.

bigEZ91RS

Well, I finally found a few hours to do some wrenching this past weekend. I degreed my cam using the intake centerline method. The cam card says to install it at 109 degrees. I measured 108 degrees (1 degree advanced) so I left it as is. Now that I was sure of the cam orientation, I went ahead and installed the pushrods and rocker arms, and set the rockers to zero lash. I will post a picture or two when I get the chance.

This weekend I plan on wheeling the camaro in the shop and finally pulling out the L03. Anyone looking for a cheap boat anchor?

I plan on repainting the engine bay once the motor is out, but I'm not sure what color I want to go. I'm thinking gloss black or flat black. What are your opinions? I posted a picture of the car in one of my first few posts in this thread if you want to check out what color the body is.

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

Any progress on the buildup? Came across this thread again in a search and was just wonderin

bigEZ91RS

Sorry for not keeping you guys updated, I've been extremely busy between work/school/girlfriend etc...

Here's the story:

• Pulled the old motor out about a month ago with the help of a friend.
• Replaced the motor mounts with new ES poly mounts. Changing the motor mounts was a major PITA. There's just no good way to get at the nuts/bolts.
• Pulled out the computer and sent it to Dynamic EFI for upgrade to EBL Flash. Upgrade complete and sitting on my desk right now.
• Cut A.I.R. tubes off of headers, sent to Jet-Hot for coating. I have them back already and they look pretty nice. I'll post some pics when I get a chance.
• Installed the intake manifold (performer rpm)
• Stripped old motor of its serpentine setup, cleaned and painted everything gloss black. Deleted the smog pump. Everything is mounted on the new motor.
• Made a block-off plate for the 454 TBI's regulator out of 1/8" plate (I'm using an Aeromotive external VAFPR)
• Cut the throttle bracket off of the 305 and 454 TBI's, welded the 305 bracket to the 454 unit.
• Cleaned up the old distributor and installed a new comp cams distributor gear on it.

There's just a few things left to do before I can finally drop this motor into it's new home:

• Clean up engine bay and POR-15 the cross members, battery tray, and radiator nest. I decided to leave the visible parts of the engine bay the original body color instead of re-painting.
• wire new IAC connector for 454 TBI. Hopefully this goes smoothly. I've found that some members on here have had trouble with the proper A B C D pin out.
• Plumb in the VAFPR. I ordered some 6AN braided hose and the necessary fittings. I've read the best place to get the vacuum source from is to tee off the line going to the MAP sensor. Is this true?

Once this stuff is all done the real fun part begins: DIY tuning!

titchener

I think either TurboCity.com or Painlesswiring.com make a BB to SB IAC adapter cable if you don't want to hack up the stock one.

Paul T.

bigEZ91RS

An adapter cable would be nice. Too bad I already ordered the connector and it will be here soon. Oh well, it shouldn't take long to do a clean swap of the connectors.

bigEZ91RS

I did some more research and read that teeing off the vac line for the MAP sensor to hook up the VAFPR is not the best idea (possibly affect MAP reading). I am getting rid of the smog pump and EGR valve, which frees up the "J" vacuum port on the TBI unit. Would this be a good place to run a vac line to the VAFPR from? See the attached diagram to get a better idea what I am talking about.

91 RS Drop Top

I just learned that you have to change the ESC module when you put the 350 in. I'm still trying to find the part so I can swap mine now that I realized I have a 350.

eschevyrda

look into that i herd you dont have to change the module becouse i herd that they re the same ,

wen i did my 350 swap i didnt change it and my car ran good

as if the 350 motor came that way from the dealership.
but dont take my word for it.

91 RS Drop Top

I have read several places that they are different. I'm definitely not the authority, though. My ESC is fried, so I have to change it anyway. I will try to find out and swap it next week and post my findings.

My 350 runs good, as in it is smooth, but it feels like it should have more power, based on the L05s being rated at 210/300 or so stck.

bigEZ91RS

When I look up ESC modules on Autozone.com, they are different on 305 vehicles than those equipped with 350's. For example: '91 Camaro or Caprices with a 305 TBI (L03), the part number is ESC105, and it costs $52.99. On '91 Caprices and trucks with 350 TBI (L05) engines the part number is ESC100 and costs $76.99. So there must be some difference between these modules. Will a 350 run OK with a 305 ESC module? Probably. Will the 350 run to its full potential using the 305 module? I'm not sure. But when spending a few thousand dollars on an engine swap, I'm not going to take a chance that a little module will limit the new engine's potential. I bought a new ESC module, and a 350 knock sensor (Autozone #SU154)

bigEZ91RS

Good news: The engine is now in its new home! I dropped it in last night after work. I left the headers (Hooker 2055's) installed to the engine and it still dropped into place fairly easily. This was a relief because bolting the headers up with the engine in place looks like a PITA!

Once the engine was in place I was able to install all the bellhousing bolts, trans crossmember bolts, motor mount thru bolts, and the flywheel to torque converter bolts. So the hardest parts are over with, now I just need to take care of all the other "installation is reverse of removal" tasks. I hope to be firing it up this weekend!

The only thing i'm unsure of is how the stock throttle cable bracket will bolt up and whether the throttle cable will be the right length. same with the TV cable and cruise control. The location of the TBI is definitely a little different from the stock location since i'm using a Performer RPM carb manifold plus a carb to tbi adapter plate. There has been a ton of carb manifold swaps, anybody have any tips/tricks to make this work?

Erik

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

I am going to drop my new 350 e-tec motor in soon as well, with hooker 2055s. Did you have to remove the steering shaft to drop the motor with the headers on?

I am thinking of dropping the k-member out since I need to drop the a-arms to replace the worn out motor mounts and installing the motor and trans as one piece with all accessories installed. I was thinking think mainly cause of the headers. I have installed them in the past, but like you said, PITA. I wish I could run the motor for 15 minutes, re-tighten the header bolts, install the stage 8 locks and then install the motor. Not really easy even if I had a shop to take it to since it is TBI.

I see that you are going to run the GMPP head gaskets. Nice low compressed thickness. As it stands today, would you get different ones. I need to order mine ASAP. I saw felpro makes some for vortecs, but summit did not list a 4.000 bore for them.

I just got my EBL as well. Hope that we can help each other tune. I only went with a LT-4 hotcam and will probably just run a 350 TB.