Tbi-MAX

I do have the 400 specific balancer... but get this... I called up Eagle Crankshaft yesterday.. the manufacturer of the crank, and the particular crank I am using... Uses the 350 flexplate, not the 400 flexplate... but it REQUIRES a 400 balancer. The guy at Eagle told me to stick it in, exactly like that... 350 flexplate & 400 balancer... So thats what I did.... I even told him what my machinist, can do, Put the 400 weight on the 350 plate, but he said NO, dont do that. just use a stock 350 plate, with the 400 balancer.. But I know this is their only crank that is like this, from their website.

take a look: http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Che...%20cranks.html

model: 103523750

"Use 400 balancer & stock flexplate" <<< this is their ONLY crank that says this...

So they did verify, the 350 plate has to be used....
-------------------------------

Bmonte that plate is interesting however, I will call them, and ask about that plate also. But the engine is already in the truck now... My Machinist said if I have to change the plate again, I can just drop the tranny. But he also said if Eagle said thats how the crank is setup, then run it like that. Personally Im trying to do whats best. I did notice this adapter is for 153 tooth, I believe I have 168 tooth...
----------
you are correct, got the engine in, turned to on position, was attempting to turn engine over with starter.... (no ignition or distributor) just to see if it will turn over...... it sure did.... / but so did the fuel pump, and it blew all the gaskets in the injector pod in a few secs... gas shot way up... untill I removed the relay... So yea, I really have to get a new gasket set this morning. walbro aint no joke...

I will go along the route, of a better spring, I should be able to get that from GM parts locally??? Im about to turn that screw all the way closed like stock almost.. cause dang thats alot of pressure, and it was 1/2 way out... I really want a aeromotive fpr, bbut I cant at this time... so I have to make the stock regulator work as best as I can...

Tbi-MAX

new 350 flexplate, tbi spacer, tbi on top ported, cyclone intake, vortec heads .52lift, k1103 cam, 383 crank, STOCK exhaust headers for now... (long tubes will replace it when I recover cash)







looks more and more like a motor.... just need to get it in running correctly, then I can detail under the hood really good... cause it is dusty after sitting for a mnth...

Ill get the radiator and add coolant today... connect all water hoses... the engine has Shell Rotella oil in there now 15w-40, stp breaking oil, fram filter... this was recommend by my machinist for the break-in... on my flat tappet cam.

After I rev and break it in like Bmonte said, I will change the oil again, then get it to the dyno in a few days...

Tbi-MAX

getting closer..... another long night.... everything connected and torqued down, bell housing bolts, engine mounts, exhaust headers, starter, ac lines, pulleys, accessories, sensors.....

whats left...
fabricating brackets for my throttle, and ignition coil on top of intake manifold... (heating & bending brackets to work) / also have to hook up my break booster line, then cap off 2 of the vaccum lines on the tbi, that I will no longer use for the egr stuff. / Put the injector pod & injectors in with new gasket set... prime the oil pump with a drill b4 installing the distributor, and connect my wires to distributor... that will be it... should start up, breakin, then change oil, get to the dyno by tow...

back in its home:


accessories:


get-R-done...


good thing its in a big truck, so I can get into the engine bay, and stand on the ground, and hook stuff up easy... I can imagine it in a smaller engine compartment... the hood being off also helps. and it sits up high off the ground, I can just roll under and do my work.

beatercoprice

I would be prepared to have to pull the valve cover and readjust the valves once its running. Ive never seen anyone who got a valve adjustment right without having the engine running. I know it can be done, I just havent seen it or been able to do it.

BMmonteSS

I've never been able to do it with the engine running. I have a fairly substantial hearing loss in the high range and just can't hear ticking noises very well.

There is no reason that you can't set the pre-load with the engine off if you have primed the lifters with oil and set them with the adjoining valve at max lift.

Tbi-MAX

Bmonte is correct, cause they did it by pumping the lifters up & RE-adjusting my valve max lift also checking my springs, then he adjusted the rockers properly... this is why my engine is not at TDC when i got it back... he said this. But ill see what happens, but by turning it over, it sounds brand new..... I have to turn it with the starter, to get to TDC was what he told me.

beatercoprice

Well if the shop installed and adjusted the rockers I wouldnt be too worried about it. Its just something Ive always had trouble doing on my own (adjusting them without engine running) and I know on some of these vehicles/engines getting one or both of the valve covers off is a bear once everything is installed.

383chevyz71

That is correct with the eagle crank, use stock flexplate and 400 balancer

Tbi-MAX

Updates:

okay started the motor yesterday, cranked right up on the 2nd try, after messing with distributor.... I can verify the rockers were properly put in, and had zer0 noise from both valve covers...
however... it was a knocking coming from the bottom, so I turned it off immediately, then had a 2nd mechanic take a listen (not the pharmaceutical guy)... he instantly said crank was hitting the oil pan. he has 2 strokers, he strokes all his motors, and said I will have to beat the oil pan out.... he owns a mechanic shop also...

so I had the pharmaceutical guy 1, droped the pan, sure enough, you can see 2 lines where the crank was hitting the pan up front, where the pan is shallow. so I made him beat the lines out... and remove the oil plate, thats in the oil pan... I can see where it hit that too. Noise was still there after we put the pan back on.

towed it to my machinist so they can take a listen... he said oil pan as soon as he heard it, he then felt the pan, and said you could feel it hitting. he said the motor is perfectly fine, and sounds good otherwise. He wants me to get a deeper pan, something for a stroker & a 1peice.. he said even though that guy beat it down, its still hitting the pan... I believe this, cause the pan is so shallow at the front.

Anyone knows where to get a deep oil pan? but can use my oil pump & pickup thats on there? I was schedule to dyno tune tomorrow, but I will have to cancel, for a later date...

forgot to mention, I got the walbro 255 pumping through my stock tbi... I cant believe it held that pressure so good.. this is after going through about 3 different TB bases, with the two thread lines. cause I kept breakin them when tight.. they break easy.

BMmonteSS

You'll want to verify what your actuall fuel pressure is, technically you should say that you can't beleive it held up to all the "volume" as the regulator sets the pressure. If the regulator is no longer regulating because of the small return passages can't return all that volume then you'll have to do something different because it will be impossible to tune with the FP moving around.

You may just be better off massaging the pan you have as any pan that has plenty of clearance will probably interfere with the crossmember. Take a look at the circle track pans out there and you'll see what I mean.

Tbi-MAX

didnt get anything done today, was too tired from the night before.... tmrw ill be busy too, but Ill get back to it on Thu... this is becoming into a work out, but Im almost done...

Bmonte I will have to verify the fuel pressure. About the wording yes, it held up to the volume, but I can tell its putting some strain to it. Bmonte so I need to make sure the pressure is at 1 constant pressure at all times? not fluctuating? how do I measure on a TBI system the pressure?

So massage the pan out more? I think this will work, cause he beat it flat, NOT beat it outwards... Those damn pans are freakin expensive. So ill have to take another whack at the stock oil pan.

My cross-member does, have some clearance to it... its a 2wd and not cluttered like the 4wd. but how big of a pan is the question... I would really like to make the stock pan work, if I can...

heck I dont even know if this will work, but it will be the LAST resort: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=MOR-20205

it says, 3.8" stroke, but not stroker ready?
------------------------

also the engine sounds so good on the stock tune, the 2nd mechanic guy said its a strong motor, he wants to do my entire exhaust & lift me up 4 inches... the machinist said once I tune it in & get the big oil pan, it will be fun to drive. he reved it highest, since I started it, prob 3krpm... the hood was open, and it was blowing alot of air under there, looked like a lil tornado. but it sounded beastly, except the slight knocking from pan... the oil pressure was flat on 60psi when we checked!

Tbi-MAX

on its way...


just trying to save time, taking off the pan, beating, testing, beating again, pharmaceutical guy.... etc, etc / summit said this pan will work on a stroker no problems.

also figured the added extra qts will only help, cause the stock hold 4qts... this 7qts...

Tbi-MAX

thought I would share some more pics with you guys... I got so many, but Ill post more if more is requested...

look at how shallow the stock oil pan is upfront... this is where the crank is hitting the pan in 2 places...


well here is a pic of when I 1st put the injectors on, when it sprayed everywhere, but I got a new gasket set, so its good now.. this is the tbi unit that will feed a 383 stroker. the brown stuff is some Ford gasket maker stuff... but I used it with a new gasket set this time... 1" TB spacer is at the bottom also, .25" tbi to 4 barrel plate, and cyclone intake to feed stroker...

Tbi-MAX

1st oil pan, doesn't work. sumps out on the sides too much, cant get oil filter on. Moroso recommended this, and said it will clear the stroke. Hopefully this is the end of the problems.

Tbi-MAX

Please excuse my under body, its still dirty from the last motor. I will clean it up really good once its said and done. but the Moroso oil pan clears the stroke with NO problems at all..











after i got the pan on, I toped off the radiator, filled the oil pan with 6 qts... it cranked instantly and sounded great too. I went ahead and did the cam breakin for 20 mins or so at 2krpm - 3krpm... the motor pulled hard in all ranges.

the timing and the distributor still needs to be set. everything is still at 0. However I have to get a brand new battery, and i have to figure out where im leaking a lil bit of oil from.. also a cracked spark plug... ill be working on those things tomorrow. Im just glad the engine runs great and quite! Next step will be the dyno tune...

again, thanks to all who shared their input on this topic, and PMs...
Im trying to get the video posted of it when it cranked up...

Tbi-MAX

okay, its leaking the oil from the back of the intake manifold, I need to redo that gasket set.. but it leaks slowly.. everything else is just fine. the engine is quite, but I think I have a exhaust leak, or I need a more free flowing exhaust.. sounds like my cat converter tho.. or maybe its just the lope to it...

Im working on posting a video so you guys can enjoy....

beatercoprice

When you do the intake gasket dont use the pieces of rubber for the "china walls" use permatex ultra black RTV it specifically says oil resistant or something like that on the package. I had a persistant intake oil leak that turned out I was using the wrong kind of RTV that was letting oil blow by after it warmed up... and this was the copper ultra hi-temp RTV the highest tempurature rated stuff they have! Once I used the ultra black I didnt even get a drop of oil.

Tbi-MAX

this is totally correct...
I dropped the tranny thinking the rear main was leaking, but nooo... its coming from the very back of the intake manifold, "china wall".... it leaks all the way down the back of the block... so the intake is coming back off tomorrow...

the pharmaceutical guy put everything back on, but he f'ed up the intake gasket. he used the 2 side gaskets, then he used 2 more pieces from my other gasket set and made it work... which is totally incorrect. that is why it leaks.. I was informed by another mechanic, that just the 2 sides needs gaskets thats it...

beatercoprice, I will use some black sealent that is oil resistant... like you said, as soon as the truck warms up, it starts leaking slowly... and that hits the hot exhaust and it smokes from under.. it does this when it feels like it..
well so far I have 460 miles of just mostly idleing in drive, hadn't got to get into it yet, but Im schedule for a tune next week. I have to change oil and inspect again. Im still doing small stuff, like break booster line, small ac leak, small exhaust leak... just been so busy, hadnt spend much time yet.

beatercoprice

Im really interested in how this thing will run after a tune, as I have plans of a similar 383 TBI sometime in the future. Please keep us updated throughout the whole process.

JohnBlazeLTZ

Wow...I ain't been back for a while but I wanted to post and say that although you've been through some nail biting moments...that it may actually come together in the end. This is a really positive thread regardless of the outcome...which we hope is good...but...it shows what almost could've happened if there wasn't enough research done or the wrong person working on it or if guys around here at this website decided not to help you...there are a lot of factors that came together that have gretly improved your chances of being successful. Also...Tbi-MAX...you managed to get a crash course in TBI and absorbed it all very quickley. I commend you for having the tenacity to hang on for the ride and not get frustrated.

I think the thread should be made into a sticky if all goes well. I mean...I have been on this site on an off for a long long time and a 383 TBI just hasn't been in the cards a lot around here. I hope this is just the beginning of a long list of successful 383 TBI's.

BTW...on Xtreme Fi on ebay...they are currently listing a 54mm 850cfm BB TBI that has the option of fitting on an SBC. This may be overkill at this point but...it "SAYS" it can support over 500hp...not that this is your goal...because if I remember correctly you just wanted a daily driver with extra towing power...but later on you may want to consider a few "tuner" type things to really get as much out of your set up as possible. Of course your going to get it tuned out and make it driveable but I anticipate that one day... after its been broken-in and driven for a while... that you will develop that itch for Do-It-Yourself tuning and you will try to sqeeze just a few more drops of power out of it!!! Don't call me psychic yet...I just have a feeling.

Tbi-MAX

JohnBlaze, I could NOT have done this build without the help of the guys on this forum; the majority of my help came from these guys who helped me on this thread, and some pms to them. Im so glad a stayed on the correct path... the 383 really runs smoothly and great, it is a real horse of a motor. slightly hitting the gas and it jumps... so i know its very torquey.

I too suggest this become a sticky, cause I will be posting videos of it running at the dyno tuner... PCM4less... the motor has like 700 miles so far, but I haven't been driving it due to my slight oil leak from the back of the intake. I tried to fix it, but it still leaks slightly less than b4... but atleast not enuff to make my exhaust smoke like b4... so it is progress... besides I need a new starter now too.. the old one is shooting sparks... got to tap it to start sometimes now.

Overall Im super happy with this build, I have to take some videos, and get the in the correct format to post to the web.

FRMULA88

With only 2 injectors you do not have enough fuel delivery for much more than 300 hp.

That is why I dumped the stock system when I built my 383 and went Projection with (4) 85#/hr injectors. which is good for up to 600 horse.

If that is not an option for then what someone needs to figure out is how to adapt the Holley 4 injector unit to the stock ECM.

TBI can make the HP & I have the timeslips to prove it! If I have th etime & $ I would like to pursue dual TBIs but I am reluctant to spend the big bucks for a custom intake since there are not off the shelf dual quad intake for non 23 degree heads. So I am better off with a carb this time around.

BMmonteSS

A LOT has been learned since you started playing with TBI. Fast355 has made over 300 hp with a 350 TB and injectors by increasing fuel pressure. With BB 70b/hr injectors he made over 425 hp with room to spare.

The "new" limit of TBI is somwhere around 450 hp, at that level the injectors as well as the 2" throttle bores are maxed out.

As for running a 4-barrell with the stock ecm, it can be done.....sort of. It requires an injector driver swap. The problem you run into is getting the PW low enough to get a good clean idle. Enter Rbob's new EBL system, it's an add on board that fixes the stock ECM's logging speed while allowing you to run Rbob's new TBI code. This code is the shiznits and one of the cool features is a table that will allow you to compensate for a vaccume adjustable fuel pressure regulator without fundging the VE table. This will allow you to lower the fuel pressure at idle and get a good clean idle with PW that aren't on the low end of whats possible.

With higher than stock fuel pressure I believe more than 600 hp is possible. In my personal opinion, once you get to this level the benefits of a MPI setup are something to seriously consider.

Tbi-MAX

updates:

yep I switched formats on my handycam, now i have .vob files i will posting soon... stay tuned.

for now, here are some pics from today...

tbi 383


idle

gauges / fully warmed up


Throttle Body Injection / 61# for now, 90# next...


msd 6AL pills / 6000 in box now... / revs past the red line on old 350, so cant wait to get it tuned in for a 383... still babbying it...


1 more

JohnBlazeLTZ

yeah man...I am impressed. You should see about getting some video on you tube when it gets tuned on the dyno.

Yup...Fast is one of my favorite posters around here. When he came over to the B-Body boards I used to go to a lot...and he was posting about a van...I knew he was the kind of guy that could "git r' done" with TBI. What he has done is so impressive I swear he should open a TBI building and tuning shop...maybe even a school.

Don't get me wrong...there are a lot of other guys that know what's up with TBI too but he is the true stand out in my eyes. He proved to me that IT can be done with TBI...and that's why I never gave up because I had my moments where I wanted to sell my car. I had always wanted a 355 with a TBI blower but so many people told me...don't do it....that the supercharger just wouldn't give the Caprice the kind of power it really needs. So then I switched my plans to a 383 but I was going to go to Accel FI because of the 2 barrel limits but now with the "tune-able" GM computers....I really hope can go to a dual TBI set up...but from what I have been reading...the Offy intake I wanted to use ony works with 1986 and prior cars. So now I am back to a single TBI set up.

Hey Max....what do you think you got into your 383 money wise? would you say 2500 or so?

JB

Tbi-MAX

thanks for all the support guys... I do have about 2500$ in it for sure, that is without the tune as of now. the small stuff is what hurts the wallet, the un-expected stuff... for a exact price, ill be adding up all my receipts shortly... then its the time factor. I took me longer that what i was wanting it done... but then i also had so much to learn about tbi... I knew nothing about building a engine, just about some of the parts..

Fast also is the guy who made me keep my truck, and do a 383 tbi, cause i know it makes nice power and torque. And we all seen what he can do with his van.

Im about to post the 1st video i converted...
----------
well the time has come for the 1st video...
i will post several others, once I convert and upload them..
this 1 is with the air cleaner off, so its a little loud, and i do have a exhaust leak at the donut on the drivers side.

i think the video is out of sync with the audio... but be patient...
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...urrent=383.flv

Tbi-MAX

same video: http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...urrent=383.flv

things i still need done:

valve cover breather on drivers side
exhaust leak fixed at drivers side donut / or new long tube headers...
intake manifold needs another gaskets to stop small leak when warmed up.
383 tune

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Now that you have it in the next step is definatly tuning. There is alot of info on those PCMs as well as tuning defs and such. Id start with the VE tables and the acceleration enrichment for starters so its somewhat drivable, and tehn take it from there. The software is free. You'll need the G1 adapter + burner from moates along with the OBD-1 USB cable and a laptop. Id also recommend a wideband of some sort. I wouldnt use it much until you begin tuning. From the video it sounds like its leaning out pretty bad.

I also put my vote in for some ceramic coated LT's and a good exhaust. They'll really enhance the torque compared to the stock rustifolds.

Tbi-MAX

yes im so glad i have made it to this step. i have not been using it too much, but it is back on the road. i try to keep the rpms less than 2rpm at all times, especially in drive. 1.5 rpm does about 60-65 mph with my 3.73 gears... i goes to the tunner this week. ive just been going through alot of personal things. so that is the only reason it has not been dynoed yet.

i do plan on starting to tune eventually, cause ill add bigger injectors and such later on. i do agree with the long tubes.

here is more videos.. also it sounds alot better with the air cleaner on it too. but maybe i should raise the fpr some more... ? or atleast get a gauge on it...

just posting videos, as a convert, and upload...

383 startup
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...startup383.flv

383 no air cleaner, idle punches to 3.5k rpm
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...urrent=383.flv

Rev #1, look at my oil pressure
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...ie_00_rev1.flv

Rev #2
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...ie_01_rev2.flv
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i am anxious to record the gas mileage, cause its not worst than the 350. also i get the egr code when i go on the hwys. i have to get this tuned out asap, im sure my gas mileage will go up even more. and i will love to step on it, with the correct tune...

Tbi-MAX

Rev #3
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...00_383-tbi.flv

Fuel Injectors
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...383-tbi1-1.flv

beatercoprice

Thats because the system is still feeding it relatively the same amount of fuel as if it were a 350.

When you "pop" the throttle it noticably hesitates.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Id save your money and tune it yourself. The tuner likely wont know much about that PCM, or all that will have to be done to calibrate it. FWIW, it takes a series of short sessions over about half a year to calibrate an engine for winter, fall/spring, and summer operation. Nothing hugely major, but there are alot of little things like the crank AFR/startup AFR transitions, O2 PID, idle PID, IAC flow tables, etc that will make all the difference in how the engine runs. This is alot more then you'll get for one costly tune.

91chevz71

Definitely DIY tuning!

JohnBlazeLTZ

Dude don't even drive it if its lean on the fuel. Punching like that is risky. Your risking the engine. Any lean condition is not good and any slight circumstance could happen and you could detonate a cylinder and then your back to step one. Sounds like it is going to be pretty tough. I knew a guy on another forum that did a 383 TBI in his suburban a while back and he loved it. He took it to a tuner and they got it lined up. He brought them all the tuning equipment he bought...not sure what kind though...and they just got familer with it and got it tuned in. Plus he learned a lot about tuning while watching them so in the future he could change over to other parts and handle the tuning himself later. If you get it tuned by them guys...I would ask to be involved so I could learn then get right in there and ask a lot of questions....soak up everything.

P.S. I second the headers if you can afford them. Then tune will need to be redone if you add them later. If not just drive it and do some data logging and enjoy it till you can get some more parts to add on later. For now be happy with what you got. I think you will be over 3K when you are done...IMO...which if it last for a long time...will be well worth it because for an engine...that's not really all that considering when I got a perf. built tranny...I paid half of that for a 700R4 with all the toys.

Tbi-MAX

makes sense, i need to tune the pcm asap..
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right about now im so tempted to DIY tune... I would like full control, and always be able to update the pcm. what is the total price of the equipment needed to burn my 1st tune?

Tbi-MAX

I do plan on getting involved with the tuning, and absorbing as much as I can. Another reason why I want to be able to tune is for that reason, when I get new headers, injectors, etc... Im trying to make it to the dyno in 3 days so we will see what can be done. Or maybe I just get the tools, and someone help me with a file to get started.

Tbi-MAX

also, I got my exhaust leak fixed yesterday, at the drivers side donut, and some welding to the muffler. It is super quite now, also for some odd reason, the egr light does not come on at all anymore. I can also notice the rpm @ idle wanting to vary about 100 rpm sometimes... I think i need some new plugs, rotor & cap now... I know for a fact the rotor is cracked b4 i installed it, the plugs aren't totally new... But its prob just asking to be tunned now..

BMmonteSS

Basic tuning equipment is less than 150$, the best of the best is less than 550$ and that's being generous with an emulator and WB sensor.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

If you are still running the AC CR43TS plugs from the TBI engine? If so they are the WRONG reach for a Vortec head. The electrodes of the plugs will be flush with the end of the spark plug boss in the heads. You need long reach plugs. AC R43LTS (Sustained WOT and mostly Highway driving) or R45LTS (mostly city driving with no sustained WOT).

Tbi-MAX

Update...

well the egr still comes on, just when it wants too.. about the idle problem, I was checking under the hood, 1 of the 2 wires to my coil came off. this did smoothe things back out some. but now the trucks still wants to vary the rpm slightly up & down, and this is only at idle! in gear its noticable too... I replaced the map sensor last night too, but it seems to help a little, but it still wants to do it occationally, so I don't think it was the map sensor. I did replace the crack rotor button yesterday too, but its the same thing.

Tbi-MAX

yes, i am running the tbi plugs, ac delco rapid fires for a 95 truck.... wow...
thank you for informing me... I will get some long reach plugs this morning, and see what happens... I will try the AC R43LTS /< that is what is prob causing my slight idle problem now..

When I come to a fast stop my rpm wants to dip to about 500 rpm... then catch itself, back up to 900, always in between there... in drive and idle it wants to do it sometimes too. I believe its the ignition system. I will be doing the new plugs today. should i be checking my idle control valve also? but that was pretty clean when i did the tb....
----------
I think I will start with just the basic tunning equipment..

Tbi-MAX

Hey Fast355, I just got some new AC 41-932 plugs, pre-gapped @ .60... these are for vortec heads... ac-delco platinum plugs... I returned my map sensor, cause its not the problem.. Im about to install these plugs in a few mins, and measure them up to the older plugs...

I plan on paying to fix my intake leak this time around, and just ordering the tools to begin programing my own pcm... I just need to do these few things 1st...

Tbi-MAX

okay, so i got the platinum ac delco plugs for the vortec heads gapped @ .065 in there... the truck runs amazing now.. also i adjusted the dist with the ignition wire under the dash disconected. after that, i reconnected it, and checked for any error codes... none. also the idle smoothed out a good bit, it idles at 850 in there. I also think i was leaking a bit from my brake booster, cause it wasnt in all the way on the vaccum line to the booster itself. but that also smoothed things out even more...

my next step would be replacing the idle air control valve, or do i just need to tune it for the correct idle at this point? I also think my timming is set at 0 still, cause when i unpluged the timing brown & blk wire, the engine pretty much stayed the same... but overall it has been running the best so far. I want to order the things to tune over the weekend.

Tbi-MAX

can someone list the websites or where to get the cheapest tunning stuff from... Im on a budget.... what are all the actual parts and describtion of the hardware to tune with? how quick can i get the basic tune up and running?

91chevz71

www.moates.net, sometimes there's stuff on Ebay (burn1)
I recommend Rbob's EBL, but it's not a necessity.
Stickies on this site and FSC are awesome, lots of info. Whatever route you go, get a wideband O2.

Tbi-MAX

yeah, i was reading Bmontes post earlier... Im ready to start tuning asap. The truck runs great at the moment, quite, idles great, very responsive... just needs a tune now... I also got a new intake gasket set to redo it again for the 2nd time..

Rbobs EBL what is the advantage?

91chevz71

www.dynamicefi.com

beatercoprice

Would he be better off with an EBL or a 16197427 PCM with MAF out of a mid 90's van like Fast355 has?

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

His truck already has the 427 PCM since it has the 4L60E computer controlled transmission. That means he cannot easily run the EBL or the MAF. No worries though, the PCM already has many of the advantages of the EBL.

91chevz71

I always forget about that damn tranny. wish I had one lol