KZad

Long story short, the car had trouble starting for a few days (usually starts right away, but was needing 6-7seconds of cranking before starting) - then it died while I was driving it. The fuel pump primes, but the injectors are not spraying fuel or clicking at all. The car WILL run on starter fluid.

I put a digital volt meter on the injector wires, and neither injector is receiving a pulse. My question is, what would stop the ECM from sending power to the injectors?

I have tried a different TPS, ECM, and I have fuel to the back of the TB - I just havn't checked the pressure. Both the Fuel Inj. & FP/Inj. 2 10a fuses under the dash were fine, but I replaced them too.

Any help / ideas welcomed.

KZad

MavViper

iTrader: (1)

From what I remember, the pulse is so quick you wouldn't be able to get a reading off of a DVM. I know I always thought that was the problem with mine but my problem turned out to be a bad fuel pump even though it seemed I was getting fuel to the TB.

I know the ignition control module might need testing. I would test that to make sure. If that tests fine then I would get the fuel pressure tested.

rsc350

Module under the cap, replace it... dont test it.

KZad

Vague, yet somewhat helpful. Is that the Ignition Control Module that Mav was talking about?

Rod Behring

Yes, it is the Ignition Control Module under the distributor cap. It is held to the dist. base with 2 small bolts (5mm) and has 2 plugs on one side and the pick up coil connection on the other. The ECM pulses the injectors when it recieves the ICM signal. Any auto parts store should be able to test it for you. The other thing it could be is the pick-up coil in the distributor which is what the ICM recieves its signal from to fire the ignition coil and report to the ECM. To change the pick-up coil you have to remove the distributor. If the ICM tests out good then its probably the pick-up coil.
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I just saw that you said it ran on starting fluid which means you are getting spark so the pick-up coil is working. It has to be the module. Good luck.

KZad

Thanks Rod - that helps a lot. I will be working on the car tonight. Hopefully the ICM is the culpret and I have good news tomorrow.


Is there any way to test the ICM, or bypass it, while it's still in the car or do I have to remove it for testing? Also is there a way to self test the thing, or do I have to have it tested at the local Autozone?

rsc350

Rod is correct, sorry for being vague. Did not have much time to post. The problem with getting this tested is that it may test good and still be the culpret. I have had about 4-5 or them go bad on different cars mainly camaros, they would test good and once you replaced it anyways the problem was solved. Thats were I said just replace it.

KZad

Thanks guys. You were exactly right. My ICM actually tested bad. I replaced it, along with a new cap & rotor and the car runs better than before it broke down.

One question though - the two wires that run to the pick-up coil ... I wasn't sure which one went on which tab of the ICM. I took a guess based on how the wires were laying. Does it matter if these are crossed up? What would happen, if anything? I think one wire was green and the other white, and there were letters on the ICM marking one "P" an the other "N".

Interesting Note: My distributor cap & rotor were in really sad shape. A while back my hood's cowl seal was leaking badly whenever it rained. I guess all the condensation finally got to the cap, rotor, and ICM. They were all covered in green, the rotor was burnt short, and it looked like the cap was arcing all over the place. It's amazing the car was running at all before it broke down.

MavViper

iTrader: (1)

well given P and N stand for Positive and Negative, I would imagine it would make a difference.. Mine had the same problem as yours and all I did was take a look at a new ICM and figured it out from there

KZad

Basically if I had them crossed up, the car wouldn't be running properly - right? My car runs just fine, so I was just assuming I had them correct. Then today I got to thinking what if ...

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Im not quite sure about the pickup wires. It may still run, but behave strangly, depending on how the module triggers. There is a plastic tang on the module and a clip on the pickup coil connector. These should be engaged with eachother. If the clip is on the opposite side of the tang, then its reversed.

KZad

Both wire ends coming from pickup coil were identical, as were the tips extending off the module. The only differences were the green & white wire colors, and the marked "P" & "N".