Dart Iron Eagles for the 350!
#1
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Dart Iron Eagles for the 350!
Finally getting around to installing the Dart Iron Eagle 215s (2.06"/1.60"valves, 72 cc chambers(the current 810 swirlies have 76cc chambers)) I have had in my garage. I am off for two weeks! Time to put them on my 350. I will start on thursday morning and should have it running by around 5:00 PM on thursday. It is going to cost me intake/exhaust gaskets as everything else has been sitting in the garage for about a year!
I will be gasket matching my performer RPM intake to the Dart ports. Should be interesting.
Based off of DD2000 and predicted losses though the driveline, it should be at roughly 250 RWHP/370 RWTQ once tuned. According to DD2000, I will be up 100 FWHP @ the 5,600 RPM fuel shut-off!
I am sticking with cast-iron manifolds for now as I have been unable to dig up headers for angle plug heads on a VAN.
In the following pics you can tell that this is not the first in chassis head swap that I have done on this van. This was the old 312 shortly before swapping in the 350.
I will be gasket matching my performer RPM intake to the Dart ports. Should be interesting.
Based off of DD2000 and predicted losses though the driveline, it should be at roughly 250 RWHP/370 RWTQ once tuned. According to DD2000, I will be up 100 FWHP @ the 5,600 RPM fuel shut-off!
I am sticking with cast-iron manifolds for now as I have been unable to dig up headers for angle plug heads on a VAN.
In the following pics you can tell that this is not the first in chassis head swap that I have done on this van. This was the old 312 shortly before swapping in the 350.
Last edited by Fast355; 06-27-2006 at 08:17 AM.
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Update-
I have been working on this for about 4 hours now, the driverside head is on and done, the passenger side swirl port head is on the garage floor. The 2nd Iron Eagle is ready to go on. Just time to get out of the heat for a while, eat lunch, take a swim, and then it will be back to work.
I have been working on this for about 4 hours now, the driverside head is on and done, the passenger side swirl port head is on the garage floor. The 2nd Iron Eagle is ready to go on. Just time to get out of the heat for a while, eat lunch, take a swim, and then it will be back to work.
#4
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by mw66nova
man, with some exhaust, cam, c/r, intake...that thing might atcually make some serious hp...but those heads are frickin' huge for the combo you've got going now...it's gonna be a dog under 3000rpm.
PS- Keep in mind that I have a 2,800 stall in it.
I am also working on headers (find me some that will work on a van with angle plug heads and I am all ears), the exhaust is already decent from the cat-back. The port matched performer RPM intake should be fine. The cam is to come, just not in the budget right now.
I wouldn't have picked up the 215s, except that I didn't pay alot for them compared to what they had in them. I could have easily spent 2x as much and gone with the 180s.
Last edited by Fast355; 06-29-2006 at 03:45 PM.
#5
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Well I got it back togather earlier. Had to switch from center-bolt valve covers to perimeter bolts, because the internal braces hit the springs on the stock centerbolt pieces. Looks better with the perimeter bolt covers on it anyway. Just need to do something about the blue valve covers and intake with the orange heads.
All I can say is WOW!
After raising the fuel pressure to 36 PSI with my 68# injectors, reseting the BPW, a little wideband VE learn in the driveway, and some part-throttle pulls around town, I found that I was pig rich all the way to 5,000+ @ part throttle. Being pig rich, I knew it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and get on it. I wasn't prepared for what would happen next. From a 25 mph roll, it started to get sideways. I actually had to get out of it to keep from going sideways! After a little tweaking, it was idling smoothly @ 700 RPM with 21 in/hg of vacuum showing. Throttle response is quick.
BTW, It still has all kinds of low-end torque. From idle-5,500 rpm it pulls harder than the 2500 Express shop van we have at work. It has a 300 net HP 6.0 in it. I wouldn't hesitate to say that it is making a good 335-350 FWHP @ 5,000 rpm.
On a side note, the tone of the exhaust is SO much DEEPER. At idle it sounds like a big block (wonder if those huge valves has something to do with it).
I need to get some pictures up.
All I can say is WOW!
After raising the fuel pressure to 36 PSI with my 68# injectors, reseting the BPW, a little wideband VE learn in the driveway, and some part-throttle pulls around town, I found that I was pig rich all the way to 5,000+ @ part throttle. Being pig rich, I knew it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and get on it. I wasn't prepared for what would happen next. From a 25 mph roll, it started to get sideways. I actually had to get out of it to keep from going sideways! After a little tweaking, it was idling smoothly @ 700 RPM with 21 in/hg of vacuum showing. Throttle response is quick.
BTW, It still has all kinds of low-end torque. From idle-5,500 rpm it pulls harder than the 2500 Express shop van we have at work. It has a 300 net HP 6.0 in it. I wouldn't hesitate to say that it is making a good 335-350 FWHP @ 5,000 rpm.
On a side note, the tone of the exhaust is SO much DEEPER. At idle it sounds like a big block (wonder if those huge valves has something to do with it).
I need to get some pictures up.
#7
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
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Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Its not pretty, but it is functional. I will have to clean it up at a later date.
On a side note, I am going to the autoparts store tommorrow to pick up some shorty header plugs. That should give me the clearance I need to run the heat sheilds to keep from cooking the wires that I am about the make up for it. I have a set of Accel 300+ 8.8 MM racing wires that I need to put togather and put on to replace the Bosch POSs that are on it.
On a side note, I am going to the autoparts store tommorrow to pick up some shorty header plugs. That should give me the clearance I need to run the heat sheilds to keep from cooking the wires that I am about the make up for it. I have a set of Accel 300+ 8.8 MM racing wires that I need to put togather and put on to replace the Bosch POSs that are on it.
Last edited by Fast355; 06-29-2006 at 10:19 PM.
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#9
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by Casey Butt
On an unrelated note...
How much oil have you spilled on the carpet in that van?
How much oil have you spilled on the carpet in that van?
BTW, that is mainly anti-freeze on the passenger side floor from the heater core bursting about 3 yrs ago.
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z TBI
Engine: L04.3 = 305-310-336
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt, 3.42 posi
Man, I think the temptation to wipe my hands in the carpet would get the best of me. I think I inherited that tendency.
#11
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
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Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Just some graphs to show how-much low-end cruising torque that I still have, despite the 215 CC intake ports and huge 2.06" intake valves.
Last edited by Fast355; 06-29-2006 at 11:25 PM.
#13
Originally Posted by Fast355
From a 25 mph roll, it started to get sideways. I actually had to get out of it to keep from going sideways! After a little tweaking, it was idling smoothly @ 700 RPM with 21 in/hg of vacuum showing. Throttle response is quick.
#14
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How did you use the same intake? Centerbolt valve cover heads have the 2 center intake bolts stood up at a different angle than the earlier bolt pattern used by the Darts, don't they?
#15
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
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Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by Damon
How did you use the same intake? Centerbolt valve cover heads have the 2 center intake bolts stood up at a different angle than the earlier bolt pattern used by the Darts, don't they?
----------
Originally Posted by Street Lethal
I really wish you were here in New Jersey, as I have an 86' LG4 Sport Coupe that is just begging to be restored (runs fine though). Hell, I'd honestly "give" you the freaking thing, as it'd would really be nice to someone like you turn her life around (I have no time). With 21 in/hg of vacuum @ 700-RPM, me thinks it's time for a cam swap...
Last edited by Fast355; 06-30-2006 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#17
Originally Posted by Street Lethal
I really wish you were here in New Jersey, as I have an 86' LG4 Sport Coupe that is just begging to be restored (runs fine though). Hell, I'd honestly "give" you the freaking thing, as it'd would really be nice to someone like you turn her life around (I have no time). With 21 in/hg of vacuum @ 700-RPM, me thinks it's time for a cam swap...
so who's giving away cars? specifically a sportcoupe, lol!
#18
Originally Posted by mw66nova
so who's giving away cars? specifically a sportcoupe, lol!
#20
I tried to find those heads over at summit racing and this is as close as I can find. Dart Iron Eagle Platinum Cylinder Heads: DRT-10521122P - summitracing.com
Says 64 CC combustion chambers and 2.05 intake valves. I'm assuming this isn't the exact same head you are using right? What about intake bolt patterns. WIll these heads still accept a stock TBI intake, or holley or edelbrock intake? Do they have EGR provisions? One last question, how well do you think such heads would allow a 396 stroker to breathe?
Says 64 CC combustion chambers and 2.05 intake valves. I'm assuming this isn't the exact same head you are using right? What about intake bolt patterns. WIll these heads still accept a stock TBI intake, or holley or edelbrock intake? Do they have EGR provisions? One last question, how well do you think such heads would allow a 396 stroker to breathe?
#21
these heads would flow plenty for a 396...most of them came with the old style intake bolt pattern (two inside bolts go in 90* instead of 72* of the later style).
from what i'm to understand, the exhaust side on them need to be cleaned up a bit to get optimal flow...
from what i'm to understand, the exhaust side on them need to be cleaned up a bit to get optimal flow...
#22
Originally Posted by mw66nova
these heads would flow plenty for a 396...most of them came with the old style intake bolt pattern (two inside bolts go in 90* instead of 72* of the later style).
from what i'm to understand, the exhaust side on them need to be cleaned up a bit to get optimal flow...
from what i'm to understand, the exhaust side on them need to be cleaned up a bit to get optimal flow...
#24
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
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Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
A picture is worth a thousand words here. I picked up a dead miss. After checking the basics, I dug in. The push rod snapped when an exhaust valve got hot and the valve to guide clearance was too tight. The heads are back off and it is getting one of my ported swirl ports set #5.
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Wow! I've been following your thread as I have always wanted a pair of Iron Eagles too. What kind of pushrod was that? Stock?
#26
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
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Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by bluers91
Wow! I've been following your thread as I have always wanted a pair of Iron Eagles too. What kind of pushrod was that? Stock?
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