lowbird

Iam thinking of trying a crane 2030 cam in my tbi 350.its made for tpi but it looks to be ok for my setup( Advertised Duration 260/270, Lift .429/.452, lobe sep.116)what i have in it now is crap(lift .384 dur@193.lobe sep 110.)and the car got no power over 4000 rpm.i have edelbrock tbi intake.headers,3 inch exhaust,tbichips prom,373 gears,65lbs injectors,turbo city ported tbi,2000 stall conv.ect.And brand new 350 from pace performance #12513151. I have spent over 7000.00 dollars on this car whats another 300. If some of you guy could tell me what you think of this cam i would apreciate it vary much thanks

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Itll work fine with tbi. Bit on the mild side but it should give good performance on the street. I have a similar grind as a flat tappet and it powers out to around 4500 rpm.

cali92RS

I honestly think that cam is kinda weak for a 350. You have a roller block, correct? I would go with a cam with higher lift and a bit more duration. HAve you looked at comp cams Xtreme Energy series?
Check out the specks on this:
Comp Cams "Extreme" Hydraulic Roller Camshaft, 212 / 218, .488 / .495 112 LSA, Mild performance applications, very good mid-range, 3.23-3.73 gears .
What kind of heads you got?

Stekman

I would leave the lift alone. Unless the heads were modified for more lift, aka the guide bosses were milled down, more lift will cause the bottom of the retainer to slam into the top of the guide boss.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Id stick with the first cam mentioned if I where using a mail order chip. A high duration cam and someone who is fuel happy is a recipe for failure. The motor could be pig rich all over.

cali92RS

This guy has mentioned that he has spent over 7K on his car, which indicates that he wants this done right (i could be off base). Why stop just short and be dissapointed. Of course he's going to have to burn his own chip to get the cam to work decent, but that would be true with even a supremely mild cam (a completly stock car's tune leaves a lot to be desired). I guess the heads he's using would be the determining factor as far as lift is concerned. But i think you want as much lift as your heads will allow, that way you dont need as much duration which makes it easier to tune.

Edit: All that being said, if you dont want to/can't burn your own chips, dimented's correct.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

i have the 2040 and it is mild. smooth idle. max HP was 5000 rpms. i would do nothing at this point. learn how to datalog first and get comfortable with what you see. then consider a burn now knowing what needs to be adjusted. after getting somewhat comfortable(i was not) swap the cam. OBTW i have a used 2040(non roller, 10,000 miles) that is out of car. see sig.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

I went and looked at the specs for that motor. Its got the L05 heads so going with anything over the 2030 might be a moot point as the heads wont be able to keep up. If your changing heads and want to learn to burn your own chip the only limit youd have to consider is the edge of the power band. With a stock ecm anything over 5500 rpm may cost power as the stock programming isnt set up for high revving performance applications.

If your keeping the stock heads then in my opinion that cam is a good match. I have a similar profile with my smog heads and they work well together. I think its the cam stock engines should have come with.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

This sums it up pretty well:

"THIS CYLINDER HEAD IS NOT A PERFORMANCE ORIENTED CYLINDER HEAD. IT IS CLASSIFIED AS A HIGH SWIRL HEAD THAT WAS INTENDED FOR GOOD BOTTOM END TORQUE AND FUEL ECONOMY. THE INTAKE RUNNER IS RESTRICTIVE BECCAUSE IT HAS A RAMP CAST INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL TO PROMOTE HIGH SWIRL."

Guy down the street got a similar motor and the brand new fully assembled stock heads mustve sat at the curb for over a month before the scrap man came and took them away.

lowbird

The chip i had burned can take a mild cam. i just need a bit more top end power with gears but anyway i need a new chip made now because my ecu in the car needs to be changed to 1228746 the one i have now is 1228063 and that was never used with a 350 so it must go..so i will just tell him the cam i am putting in it. The on the car are cast 193's with spring's good up to .550 lift..

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

If your burning your own chips there is material avaliable for the 8063 and even a complete hac. Its very similar to the 8746 so its not totally necessary to switch over.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

The castings still probably are only good up to around .450 - .480 like most other stock heads. The main limit on the top end will be the heads. Theyll have a hard time at anything over 4500 rpm.

Gunny Highway

iTrader: (1)

I have the exact same cam in my 350 TBI as well. Rich92RS350 had a similiar setup as yours (350 w/ LO5 heads and THIS cam) and he put out a DYNO PROVEN 319 HP and 399 lb/ft @ the flywheel.

Everybody is all obsessed with the lift of a cam I feel it's more important to match it to your needs and your heads.

I have yet to dyno my car. . . the only difference is that I have Trick Flow Aluminum 23* heads on mine.

It's an easy cam to tune the computer with. . and if you turn out not to be happy with the results, just put some 1.6 RR's on it and you'll have all the lift you could want.