Timing Chain
#1
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 758
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L Fuel Injection
Transmission: Automatic 4speed /w OVerdrive
Timing Chain
I was talking to my boss and he said one of the most notorious failures in the 305 is the timing chain. He told me to get a timing light and watch the engine and if the timing raises and drops and keeps doing that then the chain is failing and needs to be replaced. He said this is a comon problem.
Can someone explain this to me...also what is the cost to fix this. I am making a list of all the stuff I need to get done to the car come spring so far I have the following
I am thinking if this item is a known problem then I might as well remove and replace it as well.
Also if you see anything else in that list that I should add, please let me know
Can someone explain this to me...also what is the cost to fix this. I am making a list of all the stuff I need to get done to the car come spring so far I have the following
- Change spark plugs
- Change Spark Plug Wires
- Clean ground, battery poles, and maybe change all the wires
- Trany fluid flush
- coolant flush
- Replace every filter in the car
- Install the Open Air Element Breather (Mr. Gasket)
- Terra clean on engine
- Fine Tune Timing
I am thinking if this item is a known problem then I might as well remove and replace it as well.
Also if you see anything else in that list that I should add, please let me know
#2
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
The 305's were known for that as well as the cam lobes wearing early, but since GM went with a roller cam set up (which yours has) you shouldn't have a problem.
190K miles on mine and it's fine so far. I guess it still wouldn't hurt to check it though.
190K miles on mine and it's fine so far. I guess it still wouldn't hurt to check it though.
#3
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,387
Likes: 434
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
All of that stuff is cheap. If your car is holding its set timing than don't worry about the timing chain. Your biggest cost will be if you get a set of aftermarket wires. Is your car doing anything right now that would lead you to belive that the timing chain is going?
#5
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,387
Likes: 434
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by 25THRSS
Is the timing chain on our tbi cars roller?
Is the timing chain on our tbi cars roller?
#6
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
Yes. So when you replace it you need to make sure it is for roller applications. They should say 87 on up. If not get a true roller. If it is under 50 bucks than you have the wrong one. Sgoggin dickey sells one for 49.
Yes. So when you replace it you need to make sure it is for roller applications. They should say 87 on up. If not get a true roller. If it is under 50 bucks than you have the wrong one. Sgoggin dickey sells one for 49.
#7
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,387
Likes: 434
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by 25THRSS
Yes I understand our blocks are roller blocks and the cams are too. What I was asking is if they are true roller? I don't really understand the difference between "roller" and "true roller." Care to explain?
Yes I understand our blocks are roller blocks and the cams are too. What I was asking is if they are true roller? I don't really understand the difference between "roller" and "true roller." Care to explain?
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#8
Thanks for trying to explain it to me shifty. I guess it's something I'll have to learn first hand. I get confused though sometimes when people talk about roller and true roller timing chains. Wish I knew what the difference was. Is it something I can visually see like the obvious difference between roller and non roller rockers or is it internal?
#9
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,387
Likes: 434
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by 25THRSS
Thanks for trying to explain it to me shifty. I guess it's something I'll have to learn first hand. I get confused though sometimes when people talk about roller and true roller timing chains. Wish I knew what the difference was. Is it something I can visually see like the obvious difference between roller and non roller rockers or is it internal?
Thanks for trying to explain it to me shifty. I guess it's something I'll have to learn first hand. I get confused though sometimes when people talk about roller and true roller timing chains. Wish I knew what the difference was. Is it something I can visually see like the obvious difference between roller and non roller rockers or is it internal?
#10
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
As long as your changing things I'd change the differential fluid as well. Did it in mine, and the fluid wasn't exactly, clear... Also, some dealerships (I used to work at one) will do an engine oil flush on your car. I'm getting mine done as soon as I get the chance.
Bruce (90RS305)
Bruce (90RS305)
#11
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
A roller chain has little round links on the chain. They're fixed though. They just ride along with the chain.
A "true roller" has a metal sleeve on the links that actually rolls with the teeth on the chain.
The factory chain doesn't have either. The links are wierd looking.
A "true roller" has a metal sleeve on the links that actually rolls with the teeth on the chain.
The factory chain doesn't have either. The links are wierd looking.
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