Can anyone out there give me a simple synapsis on what to do for the following and what hardware is needed?

1) Logging ALDL information onto a laptop using Win ALDL
I assume a link cable and laptop with Win ALDL software, is that it?

2) Programming Chips.
I've gathered that you need an eraser and programmer, and the computer/link from step one, but is there any application specific software needed? (like a program to write GM chips and a separate one for ford chips say?)


In the next week or two I really want to pull some date and try to get my TBI running even stronger, so I appreciate any feedback. I've tried PM'ing and emailing a few people, but to no avail. Thanks in advance guys.


Tyler

 

1. Like you said, you'll need Winaldl, the ALDL to serial connector cable, and a laptop.

2. You'll need a burner (which comes with contol software), bin editor software (tunercat), a craig moates PROM adapter, and a EEPROM or 3 (also from moates). With this setup you can avoid buying the eraser.

 

28 pin eeprom adapters arnt available from moates anymore because hes having trouble with the crap stock RN connectors. Im po'd about it myself. I hate having to get an UV eraser although im goign to try and make my own from a germicidal bulb and a trash picked transformer. Ill be damned if im going to pay 50 dollars for a little UV eraser when i can make a large bulk eraser for around $15

 

I did the germicidal bulb thing myself.
Just don't look at it when it is running. You can erase a BUNCH of bins in a hurry with that big bulb!!

Greg

 

how long does it take? Oh, ill probably see if i can liberate some amber uv filter gogles while im at it. Dont want any cateracts.

 

I want to say that homemade UV eraser might have the effect of reducing the EPROM's life, so the perceived value might be fictional.

 

I doubt that any reduced life will be a problem. How many times do they neeed to be reused anyway.

The best way to find out how much times is needed is to erase them for a short time (5 to 15 minutes) and blank check them.

Make sure you give them some extra time after they come back blank the first time to make sure that they are completley erased. I think mine take about 15 mins but all eproms and erasers are different.

Rember to use caution and read the warnings on the UV bulbs. They ARE dangerous, they will harm your eyes if you look at them, they ARE used for killing germs.

I have seen bread pans rigged up for a lightproof case.

All commercial erasers have an interlock so that they can't be powered on unless the cover is completley closed. There is no need to look at the chips while they are being erased anyway. Just set up your bulb and chips, cover the whole thing, and then plug it in.

Play safely,
Greg

 

Well two things...my UV eraser still erases my 2732 in 2 minutes, after 90 burns. And something in the manual/literature explained that the bulb puts out a specific wavelength, which allows the bulb to be extremely low wattage, which apparently allows the EPROM to live longer.

 

what about the prominator they're talking about on the eprom board? so much of what they talk about is over my head!

they've also been talking about this new air fuel meter on that board.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/

 

i trying to sponge one off of some one and i think its one of the full sized bulbs so covering it might be hard. I guess ill just have to don my protective eye wear, hit the switch, and get out of dodge. As to kev's post, i think the professional programmers use a filter to narrow the spectrum of emmision plus they probably also have a higher intensity per unit area so the erasure time takes less time. Even though the germicidal bulbs put out more overall power i think the power per unit area is less then that of a 'real' eprom eraser.

 

On the DIY PROM board, the 'administrator announcement' at the top has a link to an intro article on PROM burning and scanning.

RBob.