bills82z28

just wondering,can you pull the 305 & ecm & injectors & replace it with a 350 moter,ecm & 350 injecters & run ok?

RSCamaroGuy92

There are TONS of articles and guys that done the swap, if you did a search on it, you would have found them. Hell, you might have even found the one I posted! LOL Yeah, it can run just fine, here's what you need for the swap. Everything else will work from the old 305, right down to the sensors(water, oil, ect)

350 throttle body, most importantly the injectors
350 Knock sensor
350 ESC module (Electronic Spark Control Module)near power brake booster on firewall. toward the drivers side under the VIN
350 ECM #7747 OR
305 ECM #8746 will work with a custom chip. Brian Harris can make you one, if you want I'll give you his contact info. He used to do them for like $25-30. Dunno what he still charges thou.

Adjustible Fuel Pressure Regulator ---> This one your gonna have to buy at a performance shop or autozone/pepboys ect.
It shouldn't cost more than $70 for it, and it'll go right back in the throttle body where the old one came out.

***** Some People out there will try and argue that you don't need the fuel pressure regulator. If you want to do this right, your gonna need to do it, 'cause if you don't, you will run your engine lean, which means you'll have detonation. Detonation can shatter pistons and destroy motors, its not pretty.

It makes sence, $65 now or $500-1000 later for a new motor, your call. I don't like to take chances. And hooking everyhting back up is a PITA, wouldn't wanna do that again if I don't have to.

sniper_dsl

I replaced my V6 with a crate vortec 350... it was a ***** of a project. This is even in a truck.. a camaro is a bit more constricted to work on... We had to make sure the '93 EFI would work right with the newer motor. Special TBI manafold which costs out the ***, (damn vortec heads) bunch of programing and tweaking just to get it running decent. Its still getting way too much fuel at idle and had problems with detonation a while ago...

the majority of b/s was finding parts because its a '96-up motor inside a '93 truck. dip****s at the parts store only knew how to use a computer, and don't have the know-how to compensate. (went thru 4 starters till one fit right) its always the little things that get in the way... like constantly running to the store... bleh

-sigh- one thing after another... if you ask me though... it was worth it! I learned a lot about the TBI and how flexable it can be when in the right 'knowledgable' hands of a pro. of course that wouldn't be me. i merely limped the truck into Bob Brown's who knows chevrolet inside and out, builds drag cars n' such. his talent cost me an arm and two legs... thats the price you get when you don't know what you're getting into. i was just happy we got it to his shop on its own power.. dieing and clunking the whole way... lol lucky i didn't ruin the valves or blown something.

anyways... the point to my story is to plan things out first.. do your research rather than finding the roadblocks along the way. (although thats sometimes the only way to do it)

eh.. i'm done rambling for now..

swerve-driver

305 to 350 is done quite often.
By reprogramming the chip my self, I was able to avoid having to get an adjustable fuel reg. Engine is running top notch. To get it that way, I wound up logging data and reprogramming chips well over 30 times. With chips it seems that there is always one more thing to adjust. But, as is, the car runs like brand new. If programming isn't your thing, the adjustable reg may help, but you'll still need to keep an eye on your air-fuel ratio.

All the wire connectors mate right up- it is tough keeping them all straight. I wound up using well over 50 of those disposable key tags (small manila card with a bit of wire on it) to keep them all straight. It helped a lot.

This site is an excellent resource- use the search. There is tons of excellent info on it.

With the Vortec heads on top a 350 with a cam- it perks it up quite a bit. I thought it was well worth the effort.
The look on peoples faces when a measly RS smokes them from a stop light is hilarious. Especially the fast and furious pimple dicks who think I'm an easy kill.

Best-
S-D

sniper_dsl

it was that project which got me interested into TBI and engine performance in general. had to learn somehow... heh i'm sure i could do the swap a lot quicker now that i know what i do now.

anyways... my problem was the EGR which we finally took off and reprogramed. also the manafold pressure drops VERY low at idle.. Turbocity claims their $90 peice of plastic or whatever can fix this issue for TBI. has anybody tried this part or is there another solution? pressure goes to normal when i'm driving.. maybe i shouldn't worry about the rough idle?

Mechanic said that i've got too much free-flowing exhaust and not enough back pressure. i always was told more flow=more go... its got cheap shorty flowtech headers, true dual 2 1/2" w/o cats and dynomax mufflers.

any ideas?

swerve-driver

You reprogrammed the ECM not the EGR, right? Or did I miss something?
What is the Lobe Seperation Angle (LSA) on your cam?
I do not have experience with the TurboCity item, but doubt it would cure your ills.
What is your idle speed?
Have you looked at logging data with the free WinALDL program to see how your engine is running as you drive? It is very helpful.

I put headers on my car as well and that shouldn't be an issue for you- even with the EGR. Absolutely no Check Engine lights when driving hot or cold, slow or fast.

sniper_dsl

Had the chip reprogrammed to compensate for the EGR which we took off.

as for the cam: "The cam is a modern dual pattern interpretation of the old '65 to '67 Corvette 327 cam. But with more lift and duration on the exhaust side, it does a better job of clearing exhaust from the combustion chamber. We also decreased duration and lift ever so slightly on the intake side to build more cylinder pressure. The result is a cam that makes great torque and horsepower with the 350 HO's 9.1 to 1 compression ratio."

specs: Camshaft, Lift (I/E): 0.435"/0.460" Hydraulic
Dur. @ 0.050" (I/E): 212/222 degrees

I don't know where to find the LSA if the info above isn't enough... the PIN number for my crate engine is 12486041.

i don't have the equipment to diagnostic my computer myself. is it merely a cable to a PC or must i purchase a scanner device?

there isn't a problem with my check engine light but she idles rough w/ low absolute manafold pressure.

i'm also ordering my 454 throttle body tomorrow and when it gets here i'll bore it out to 2" and slap that baby on there. (keeping 55lb injectors from 5.7) i should probably invest on a fuel pressure regulaor as well... (i'm a cheap bastard)

thanks for your help man i apreciate it very much.

swerve-driver

If you happen across the LSA for your cam, keep in mind that the general thought is that LSA should be 112* or higher.

Any lower than that and you can run into rough idle, low vacuum etc.

If you wish, search this site for WinALDL. It is a free program that will allow you to log data from your computer as you drive. You need a laptop and an ALDL cable. There is a ton of info on this site concerning that.

The main things I monitor using that program are spark knock and BLMs (telling me if the computer was adding or removing fuel at a given RPM/MAP).

There are of course reams of other info that are logged but those two were the main ones for me- your situation may vary.

Regardless, that little bit of info I logged was priceless as far as tuning. Using free, yes free, software to edit and the chip and then burning them based on what WinALDL told me brought the car into far better tune that I ever could have done "by ear" or by seat of the pants evaluation. I did pull spark plugs every once in a while to check that situation as well.

After working on older non-computer cars, I now really appreciate the advances GM has made as far as reliability and ease of tuning.
Actually GM only made it possible. The old hands on this site ( I just call them "wizards") and their expertise make it an achievable reality.

Best of luck with your regulator- keep and eye on those plugs if you choose not to use the WinALDL program (notice how I keep pushing that?).

Don't forget to enjoy the 4th-
S-D

RSCamaroGuy92

Basically the four things that I mentioned were all that you need

This is what you need to make sure of.....
---Your current block is between the years of 87-95

---Just make sure the 350 came from a truck that was between the years of 87-95. After 95, they were vortech and this is well more involved than just swapping the right motor over. Also, prior to 87, the heads had different mounting holes to hook up your accessory brackets.

---Your current Block is older than an 87. Ex. 86,85, or lower.
Then just make sure your new 350 is older than an 87 also, so your accessory brackets bolt right up.

Everything went very smoothly. The wires all plugged right in to each other. The only things that I had to change were. Where the knock sensor was located on the donor engine, I had to move it to the other side of the block so the wires would work.

Also, the Oil pressure sending unit was on the back of the block near the firewall. This was a simple fix, pull it out, and put it back down by the oil filter where it should be. No big deal, costs nothing to change and is simple.

Oh, btw USE TEFLON TAPE when you put ANYTHING in the block that goes in a water jacket, or a oil jacket. If not, you may be tearing stuff back up all just because you didnt' take the time to buy a $2.00 roll of tape and spend the 30seconds it takes to put it on the threads.