Tune Up
10-23-2002, 06:32 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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If it has been awile since your last tune up I would:
1.Change the Oil maby flush the block as well
2.Flush and change the coolant
3.Check the plugs and wires for wear, replace if needed
4.Change the air filter
5.Check and or change the fuel filter"near back of car"
6.Check the power stearing fluid level
7.Check the color of the trans fluid..if it has been awile, change the fluid.....Caution do not use permatex on the trans gasket it will destroy the trans.
8.Lube all the fittings under the car
9.Check the TBI Fuel injectors, you can use a volt meter and remove the leads ,set the meter to OHMs and touch one lead with one test wire and the other lead with the other test wire on one injector at a time and if the readings are between 1.0 and 2.0 your ok if they are out of that range they are fried...also if they are clicking really bad........ Replace em
10.Check the timeing.....with a timeing gun... the marks are located behind the water pump way down there....you may hafto paint the rusted timeing mark line....to see what you are doing
11. if the timing is jumping aroud you need a new timing chain..
1.Change the Oil maby flush the block as well
2.Flush and change the coolant
3.Check the plugs and wires for wear, replace if needed
4.Change the air filter
5.Check and or change the fuel filter"near back of car"
6.Check the power stearing fluid level
7.Check the color of the trans fluid..if it has been awile, change the fluid.....Caution do not use permatex on the trans gasket it will destroy the trans.
8.Lube all the fittings under the car
9.Check the TBI Fuel injectors, you can use a volt meter and remove the leads ,set the meter to OHMs and touch one lead with one test wire and the other lead with the other test wire on one injector at a time and if the readings are between 1.0 and 2.0 your ok if they are out of that range they are fried...also if they are clicking really bad........ Replace em
10.Check the timeing.....with a timeing gun... the marks are located behind the water pump way down there....you may hafto paint the rusted timeing mark line....to see what you are doing
11. if the timing is jumping aroud you need a new timing chain..
10-23-2002, 09:40 PM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
- plug wires should be changed no less than every 2 years (I change mine every year). Invest in a good set if they are old. *A good way to tell if plug wires are bad* If you can get to a really dark place at night, unplug the bulb under the hood and look all around with the car running (being careful not to get caught in the belt), if the coil or plug wires are arching you will be able to see it and know that they need replacing.
- how long has your distributor cap and rotor been on the car? If you turn it over and there is excess corrosion on the points then chances are you could use a new one.
- plugs should be changed every 1 to 2 years as well. again, if they haven't been changed go ahead and do it. Just get some delcos and a gapper from the parts store.
- air filter should be replaced about every 10k for a paper element depending on the size. (for $4.00 though I change it with every oil change)
- tranny fluid should be changed every 30k or so depending on your driving style (reguardless of color). Although you can drop the pan and change the filter too, they are so porous that they have little effect on small particles so I change mine every other time.
- power steering fluid should be clear and clean, not brown or red (unless we are not talking about a 3rd gen f-body, in which case it could use type-F PSF wich is supposed to be red in color). If the color is off... siphon what you can out of the resivior and refill it.
- there will be 9 (I think) grease fittings under the front. Pump grease into 'em until the bushing bulges... NOT until it comes out. Then you've just got a mess.
- fuel filters should be changed every 10k miles. be prepared to be soaked in fuel unless you can reach your arm up far enough to get to the pump and unplug it. Then run the car for a few seconds to take the pressure off. Supposedly there is a fuse somewhere that cuts power to the pump, but I've never been able to find it.
- don't forget to check the gear oil level in the rear diff
- Also important (but rarely checked) is the headlights. They may all be working, but if the lenses have moisture behind them throw 'em out and get new ones. Remember to always replace headlights in pairs.
damn I ramble, don't I
oh yeah, and make sure the belt is not cracked or frayed. if it is, get a new one and save the old in the trunk as a limp home belt in case one ever breaks on you. I'm sure we'd all rather not pay $80 for some shmuck in a wrecker to bring us a belt at 3a.m.
- how long has your distributor cap and rotor been on the car? If you turn it over and there is excess corrosion on the points then chances are you could use a new one.
- plugs should be changed every 1 to 2 years as well. again, if they haven't been changed go ahead and do it. Just get some delcos and a gapper from the parts store.
- air filter should be replaced about every 10k for a paper element depending on the size. (for $4.00 though I change it with every oil change)
- tranny fluid should be changed every 30k or so depending on your driving style (reguardless of color). Although you can drop the pan and change the filter too, they are so porous that they have little effect on small particles so I change mine every other time.
- power steering fluid should be clear and clean, not brown or red (unless we are not talking about a 3rd gen f-body, in which case it could use type-F PSF wich is supposed to be red in color). If the color is off... siphon what you can out of the resivior and refill it.
- there will be 9 (I think) grease fittings under the front. Pump grease into 'em until the bushing bulges... NOT until it comes out. Then you've just got a mess.
- fuel filters should be changed every 10k miles. be prepared to be soaked in fuel unless you can reach your arm up far enough to get to the pump and unplug it. Then run the car for a few seconds to take the pressure off. Supposedly there is a fuse somewhere that cuts power to the pump, but I've never been able to find it.
- don't forget to check the gear oil level in the rear diff
- Also important (but rarely checked) is the headlights. They may all be working, but if the lenses have moisture behind them throw 'em out and get new ones. Remember to always replace headlights in pairs.
damn I ramble, don't I
oh yeah, and make sure the belt is not cracked or frayed. if it is, get a new one and save the old in the trunk as a limp home belt in case one ever breaks on you. I'm sure we'd all rather not pay $80 for some shmuck in a wrecker to bring us a belt at 3a.m.
Last edited by 1MEAN92RS; 10-23-2002 at 09:45 PM.
10-24-2002, 08:28 AM
#4
Supreme Member
Man TGO tune-ups cost an arm and a leg don't they? A basic tune-up would include:
Oil Change
plugs
air filter
fuel filter
if you took it somewhere to get it done they would also "visually inspect parts for wear"
Oil Change
plugs
air filter
fuel filter
if you took it somewhere to get it done they would also "visually inspect parts for wear"
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