Red_Demon

I posted this in the engine swap area, but I'm hoping maybe someone here with a TBI has done this swap and might be able to assist me, the message I wrote is:

Alright Guys lend me a hand...
As I said before I have swapped out my 305 for a caprice 350. I bought a new knock sensor and new fuel injectors for the TBI. There is also a brand new fuel pump just installed. I also made sure that I picked up a brand new chip for the ECU because of the engine difference.
Now when I drive the car, the engine seems to tick, but only when I accelerate (the car never has been driven hard since the new engine because I know that it needs to be broken in properly before it is REALLY driven). The car also likes to backfire when every now and then too. The car also seems to adjust it's own timing and when I stop at a stop light then it lowers the rpm and then the engine stalls out.
The engine is brand new from the factory, so I don't know what is wrong with it. Does anyone else have any idea's what is wrong, and is it possible that the engine is bad??
Help me out
Thanks
-Justin

If Anyone could at all help me out, it would be GREATLY appreciated..
Thanks VERY much
-justin

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

teh ticking is probably an exaust leak... i had one after i put my motor in also. Check to make sure your timing is set properly. What kind of vacuum does it develop and does the needle fluctuate. Vacuum will tell you alot. Low vacuum is a dead givaway of retarded timing. Mine did it when the dist. slipped. The vacuum dropped from 22 in hg to around 14. That lo5 has a really lame cam so it should make good vacuum at idle.

Red_Demon

an exhaust leak is what I was thinking, I might have to tighten down some bolts from the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds (I can live with ticking for now)
I don't know where to check the vaccuum pressure. Where can I do that?
The RPM's go from normal driving to higher and then lower and then finally stall the car out, my thoughts is that's because the computer is trying to get the timing right. I read in another article that it's possible that the cam can be messing up the computer, is that a potential problem?? I imagine (since I had a guy burn the chip for the caprice 350) that it's not a computer related problem.
Thanks again
-Justin

One last question: what do you mean by lame cam?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

im going to assume you still have the stock cam in it. The tbi cam sucks a fat one for power. They have low durations, lift, and an lsa's all suited to giving good idle, drivability and vacuum, not power. TBI's dont do well with ecentric, lumpy cams. If you have an aftermarket cam, that could cause some problems.

As for checking the vacuum, just hook a gauge up to one of the vacuum ports on the tbi. I use the one for the purge canister, myself.

JR305

Yeah, with the backfires and the car dieing at idle I would go back and check your timing. It sounds like you are not running enough timing.

Red_Demon

see the problem that seems to occur is that the car "self-adjusts" it's timing. The car will be idling at about 800 rpm or so then it'll go up to 1000 and then it'll drop to 500 and then under and die out. If I were to change the cam to something other than the stock cam would there be the potential of fixing the problem? I am not knowledgeable at all about cams.. What should I do??
-Justin

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

the timing really doesnt self adjust. The computer just andjusts the timing to load using the map values and rpm. Sounds like the computer is hunting using the iac to keep the engine idleing or something. Go back and check the time and see where its at. THe stock cam should make that engine real tolerant to not so ideal operating conditions, after all, thats what stock cams are intended to do. I wouldnt mess with the cam untill you learn to burn your own prom. Also, try popping the stock prom for the 305 back in. Who knows, maybe the custom prom you got is faulty or just plain old poorly programed. Dont worry, the engine wont blow up or anything. You have the new injectors and the engine may run a tad lean in open loop but itll do ok in closed loop, as a matter of fact, im still using my 305 prom and it works fine.

TBI305Camaro

Really sounds like what my car was doing with the fuel pump was going. But I doubt thats your problem. Really sounds like your prom isnt quiet right. Could the chip possibly be for a different computer or something?

Red_Demon

I'll have to play witht he computer perhaps.. The stock chip is gone now.. broke one of the pins when I pulled it out , but perhaps I can pick one up on ebay and play around with it.
It's supposed to be the computer for a TBI camaro ECU for a caprice 350 engine upgrade. so I imagine it's the right chip, the guy I got it from has sold it to other people and they are content with it. I know the fuel pump isn't going, because I just put a brand new one in only a week ago.
This morning I'm going to go out and play with timing and see if I can adjust that tv valve thing and see what happens.
Wish me luck guys. Thanks for all your help
-Justin

Red_Demon

This is a burned copy of the COP CAR chip for the 1228746 ECU used in Camaros, Firebirds and Caprices with TBI engines from 1989-1992(NOT 1988). The COP CAR (ANLU) chip was recently discontinued from GM. It is a good chip if you plan on putting a 350 in your Camaro or Firebird to replace your 305. There is no speed limiter on the COP CAR chip like there is on the Camaros (110mph). Also, the VATS security feature is also disabled since Caprices did not have that feature. If you want I can modify that chip to re-enable that feature at no additional charge. I can also set the chip for 5 SPEED or AUTOMATIC.

That is the description of the chip I picked up, and the guy who I picked it up from is very knowedgeable, actually without his help the car wold have never started again.. he ended up tellign me about the tv valve and such, and after doing some adjusting, sure enough the car started.. well I'll be back in an hour or maybe later if I decide to take a nap again (gotta drive back to school tonight), with results to what I've found out. I think I'm going to start hanging out in this forum. I used to hang out around here, then my name got erased for not posting all summer, but now I'm content, so I'll be poppin on quite often.
Thanks again, be back soon.
-Justin

TBI305Camaro

Yeah Ive heard that the 88 computer is retarded. Im thinking about going to a junkyard and getting a computer from a wrecked RS. I think my computer is messed up anyways. Car just doesnt act quiet right and the voltage stays Low but ive checked everything. And on our cars isnt the voltage regulator in the computer/.

Red_Demon

well I drove back to school tonight, and boy did it suck.... I lost power on every hill dropping from the struggling 70 to about 40 mph.. I only got 9 mpg... It's terrible, and it's making me angry... I'm going to take it to the chevrolet dealer ASAP, because now this is a pain in my butt.. Thanks for the help guys..
-Justin

camaro89rs355

i put a 350 in my 89rs and it dont run right at all im getting a code 15 witch is low temp at the cts and i think it is making it run rich. When im at a dead stop and floor it, the car bogs down and till the rpm's get to about 2500. then when i get to 4000 rpms the car seem to be poping out the muffler, and seems to be chokeing. I dont know if he put a 350 knock sensor in it or not. it has the stock computer for the l03 and the l03 intake, it also has a diffrent tbi unit on it but i dont know what it came off of. If any body can help me out that will be great.



P.S THE FAN WONT KICK ON EITHER UNTILL I TRUN MY AIR ON.

Red_Demon

where do you see the code 15?? I see the tech thing for the pins and where to put it in, but where am I to see the number.. am I couting flashes or what?

Pukka

When you adjust the base timing make sure you disconnect the ESC bypass connector.

Red_Demon

did that.. no luck

Snowdog 91 Formula

Welcome to the world of engine swaps! Hmm from what you are describing it sounds to me like the timing is wayyyyy off and it is running too rich.
Check your spark plugs to see if they are coated in oil and replace them and adjust your fuel pressure down if you can.
I am 95% certain that is your problem. Your IAC isn't adjusting too well, and that could be due to a bad O2 sensor as well.
This is a guess. I am not saying it IS the problem, but you are describing in detail what happened with my car.
Maybe adjusting the timing and idle to around 700 or so with the computer wire disconnected too. That could make a huge difference.
I hope this helps. Everyone is steering you in the right direction.
Get the car to idle properly first. Lean out that mix and check those plugs. I am really suspecting they are fouled. The O2 sensor is probably dust too.
Not fun, I know the feeling.

Red_Demon

wait wait, so if my plugs are coated in oil, I should buy new one's? There is nothing I can do to salvage the 2 week old rapid fire plugs??
I adjusted the timing numerous times, with the computer disconnected and the same thing always seems to happen.. I adjusted the Tv valve, I've then adjusted the timing without the computer connected then shut the car down and reconnected it, and the same thing happens again. When I did it, I got better reving from the engine when you hit the gas when it's in park or neutral, but never got the situation fixed.. I've got tomarrow left, and if I don't solve the problem by then, then I'll be taking it to the shop if I must.
Any other suggestions??

Snowdog 91 Formula

Well, it's been some time.... did you ever get it running okay?

Red_Demon

indeed, well mostly...
It turns out that spark wires 6 and 8 were put on backwards when I put the engine in.. Should have paid more attention.... That covered the largest piece of the problems.. The ECU and chip somehow recieved a shock so they were gone too.. (through trial and error I ended up replacing the ECU and chip and it worked very good). SO that was fixed. That also took care of some terrible vibration I got at every stop.. Currently it still has a couple little kinks.. I've got a vibration occasionaly, and very rarely the car backfires and sometimes stalls. I've adjusted the timing and that never helped... Recently though, I got a code 15 (coolant temp sensor error) so I checked it.. I forgot when I put in the engine that I broke the clip for the plug, so as the car vibrated around the plug slowly came off the prongs, therefore touching and not touching the 2 prongs occasionally.. I'm not completely sure, but I think that solved the backfire and powerdip/stalling problem (at least it seemed like it since it stalled out and dipped plenty of times going to the carwash, and then when I fixed the plug at the carwash it was excellent)
So when I Return back home this weekend I'm going to use some epoxy and keep that plug connected (hopefully that's my problem).
The car does run great now, it went from 9 mpg to over 20, so I'm very content.
The rattle I'm experiencing is also accounted for.. It rattled screws out of my exhaust tips, which incidently rattled a tip off my car one night.. So I got my tip, thent he next morning I jacked the car up to see.... the exhaust hitting a steel member.. So all I have to do is move that forward and then that rattle/thumping sound is gone.
The LAST rattle I have is interesting.. IT was bothering me because it was REALLY loud in the interior, so at a light when it was exceptionally noisy, I took a closer inspection to see my antenna was bouncing around making terrible amounts of noise, so I don't think that's something I a) care about or b) can fix without buying a new antenna.

Hopefully by this weekend the car will be working completely correctly again.. I'm fairly certain I've figured this darn thing out..

iroczrockz

What is your timing set at? I put in a 350 in mine and I had to set the timing to *10 instead of *0. Gas sounds like it is a problem too for some reason. Do you have too big of injectors or something?

The fan sounds like a bad sensor. Your a/c will turn on the fan automatically.