does it cost extra to get a custom alignment, and what specs should I request??
#1
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
does it cost extra to get a custom alignment, and what specs should I request??
I know there have been several posts on this in the past but I never really paid much attention to them since I wasn't ready to have it done at the time. I don't want specs that will cause excessive tire wear but something that will give better traction over the stock specs.
I've had a problem with the car drifting to the right. I took it in to a Chevy dealer to have a new idler arm and center link installed and had it aligned at the same time. When I got it back the car seemed to drift a lot more to the right then before I took it in. I took it back and they but it back on the alingment machine and said that it's where it should be, they told me that the drifting could attributed to tire pull, does a dealer align them diferently than an actual alignment shop? It just doesn't make sense that it would be worse than before I took it in.
I've had a problem with the car drifting to the right. I took it in to a Chevy dealer to have a new idler arm and center link installed and had it aligned at the same time. When I got it back the car seemed to drift a lot more to the right then before I took it in. I took it back and they but it back on the alingment machine and said that it's where it should be, they told me that the drifting could attributed to tire pull, does a dealer align them diferently than an actual alignment shop? It just doesn't make sense that it would be worse than before I took it in.
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Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
What are the specs right now? The specs can be within spec, but still pull. Swap the front tires around and see if it pulls the other way--that would be a 'tire' pull. Cost 'should' be the same as any other alignment.
-.5 camber
-5.0 caster right
-4.5 caster left
1/16 positive toe
The extra .5 caster on the right compensates for the crown on the road. Camber should as equal as possible.
-.5 camber
-5.0 caster right
-4.5 caster left
1/16 positive toe
The extra .5 caster on the right compensates for the crown on the road. Camber should as equal as possible.
Last edited by 82camaro; 04-09-2002 at 07:39 AM.
#3
Re: does it cost extra to get a custom alignment, and what specs should I request??
Originally posted by grafx
[B I took it back and they but it back on the alingment machine and said that it's where it should be, they told me that the drifting could attributed to tire pull, does a dealer align them diferently than an actual alignment shop? It just doesn't make sense that it would be worse than before I took it in. [/B]
[B I took it back and they but it back on the alingment machine and said that it's where it should be, they told me that the drifting could attributed to tire pull, does a dealer align them diferently than an actual alignment shop? It just doesn't make sense that it would be worse than before I took it in. [/B]
I'd say take it to an alignment shop, where thats all they do and will take some time with it. You'll get more for your money that way... (and maybe, just maybe it'll even go straight!)
Hellraiser
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: L69: cam and porting
Transmission: T5, 3.73 rear
this might cause a fight but a gm engineer told me and proved to me that 0 camber is best at the front, it makes for less wander at speed and doesn't hinder handling. just a quirk of the thirdgen because of the goofy modified strut front end.
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Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Originally posted by 82camaro
What are the specs right now? The specs can be within spec, but still pull. Swap the front tires around and see if it pulls the other way--that would be a 'tire' pull. Cost 'should' be the same as any other alignment.
-.5 camber
-5.0 caster left
-4.5 caster right
1/16 positive toe
The extra .5 caster on the right compensates for the crown on the road. Camber should as equal as possible.
What are the specs right now? The specs can be within spec, but still pull. Swap the front tires around and see if it pulls the other way--that would be a 'tire' pull. Cost 'should' be the same as any other alignment.
-.5 camber
-5.0 caster left
-4.5 caster right
1/16 positive toe
The extra .5 caster on the right compensates for the crown on the road. Camber should as equal as possible.
camber -.5 both
caster left +4.5
caster right +5.0
toe +1/32 (.03)both total +1/16 (.06)
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#8
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
camber -.5 both
caster left +4.5
caster right +5.0
toe +1/32 (.03)both total +1/16 (.06)
caster left +4.5
caster right +5.0
toe +1/32 (.03)both total +1/16 (.06)
#9
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Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Originally posted by grafx
so would these be the specs they would put on it or would I have to request these numbers when I take it in?
so would these be the specs they would put on it or would I have to request these numbers when I take it in?
http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/alignmentspecs.html
i compiled this list from my hunter alignment machine. just ask them to use the specs we gave you. they have to align it anyway. so there shouldn't be any 'extra' cost involved. to bad your not in florida. i would say bring it to me and i'll do it.
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: L69: cam and porting
Transmission: T5, 3.73 rear
i'm tellin ya, 0 camber, try it and you'll probably like it for street driving. it won't hurt your street handling.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
A good example of caster is a motorbike.
A touring bike is designed for long open stretches so the front wheel is farther out. Typical Harley cruiser is 30 degrees of rake. Mine is 35 degrees and it doesn't like to turn at high speeds.
On the other end of the scale is a sport bike. These usually have 28 degrees or less. They're not as stable at high speeds but can cut corners very quickly.
In the thirdgen.org FAQ, There's mention about wheel alignment specs.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
A touring bike is designed for long open stretches so the front wheel is farther out. Typical Harley cruiser is 30 degrees of rake. Mine is 35 degrees and it doesn't like to turn at high speeds.
On the other end of the scale is a sport bike. These usually have 28 degrees or less. They're not as stable at high speeds but can cut corners very quickly.
In the thirdgen.org FAQ, There's mention about wheel alignment specs.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
#12
82 hit the nail on the head. 0 caster may be better for someone who wants a ride ( and the car not to pull on uneven pavement), but .5 -camber is the #. Whe I alligned my car I used this #, 5.5 caster on both sides ( I don't mnd having to steer a little to compensate for crown), and I forget thr toe, but it was really close to zero. I should have switched it to inches, but did not.
Steven is right about caster, but sport bikes and other motorcycles are not the same as our cars. 6 degrees is the max they go to i think. More positive on a car makes it return to strait easier, more stable at high speeds, and a better road feel (like every pebble).
Steven is right about caster, but sport bikes and other motorcycles are not the same as our cars. 6 degrees is the max they go to i think. More positive on a car makes it return to strait easier, more stable at high speeds, and a better road feel (like every pebble).
#13
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
if i do a lot of left lane hiway driving, where there isn't a crown, should i still get the extra .5 in the right caster?
#14
Originally posted by Ukraine Train
if i do a lot of left lane hiway driving, where there isn't a crown, should i still get the extra .5 in the right caster?
if i do a lot of left lane hiway driving, where there isn't a crown, should i still get the extra .5 in the right caster?
Hellraiser
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